Two Tidbits

While I organize my photos and videos from the US trip, let me post these two tidbits to keep you entertained.

The first is a picture of what qualifies as a drive-up window here in Bangkok. A stretch of sidewalk (outside a 7-11, nonetheless!) is filled with vendors selling all manner of food. A man on a motorbike pulls up at the curb, orders something from a vendor, and she packages to go. Two minutes later, he speeds off with his dinner. Can you imagine In-N-Out burger working this quickly?

And in the “Thinglish Example of the Day” category, here was the stage backdrop at the recent first anniversary of the Terminal 21 shopping mall. Yes, they are celebrating “NO 1st”. In all fairness, ordinal numbers are confusing and in Thai are no different from cardinal numbers, using only a simple prefix to distinguish them from cardinal numbers.

 

Return from America

Sorry for being away from Xanga for almost two weeks. We just returned last night from a trip to the United States and I discovered that the Xanga mobile app isn’t very convenient for uploading entries. In fact, after two entries disappeared into the ether, I gave up and decided to wait until we were back in Bangkok to try again.

Our flights over and back were smooth enough. I’ll share more about them, including our trip on THAI Airaways’ Bangkok-Seoul-Los Angeles flight, in the next few days. 

The primary purpose of our trip was to attend a family reunion for our grandparents’ 70th wedding anniversary. They had expected that Tawn and I could not make the trip but when I learned that we would be the only grandchildren not attending, I booked our flight. Needless to say, they were pleasantly surprised when we showed up at their front door the day before the anniversary.

 

While on the trip, we had the opportunity to see several friends including a few Xangans. Left, Andy and Sugi drove down from Omaha to see us in Kansas City. Right, Jason met me for lunch at San Francisco’s food truck parking lot. Also, Dr. Zakiah was so kind as to mail her book of poems to my sister’s house, where it was waiting for me. Must make it to Quincy for a future visit!

 

The trip also had its share of good food, about which I will write more in the next few days. Highlights include a porchetta and baby arugula sandwich (left) from the San Francisco food truck parking lot and fried chicken and waffles (right) from Little Skillet restaurant in San Francisco’s South of Market district. Stay Tuned!

 

The Hidden Verdancy of Bangkok

The thing about Bangkok is, it isn’t a very pretty city. Being in a tropical climate, I always expect that it will be a lush, verdant city. Even though I’ve lived here more than seven years, I still have that expectation somewhere in the back of my mind. The reality, though, looks a lot like this:

At least, that’s how it looks from the street level. The buildings are built close to the roads, with only narrow footpaths that are only occasionally dotted with trees. Those trees are usually subject to harsh pruning by laborers armed with sharp saws and little horticultural knowledge.

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Over time, my understanding of Bangkok’s relative verdancy has evolved. What I have come to see is that the city has a lot of green space, but that most of that green space is not public. Sure, as you walk down the alleys and streets, you may see some trees and bushes. For the most part, though, they are on private property, peeking over high walls. As a result, you walk in the full heat of the tropical sun.

Compare this with Singapore (pictured above) or even Kuala Lumpur, cities with mature trees lining the public footpaths, providing shade, cleaning the air, and making the city more pleasant. Now, don’t worry – I’m not about to turn this into a Bangkok-bashing, Singapore-loving entry. I just find the comparison to where our greenery lives interesting. 

When you rise above the street level, as in this view from the Conrad hotel in the particularly lush Wireless Road neighborhood, you can see that there is quite a bit of greenery in Bangkok, although as mentioned before, much of it is not visible from the streets.

In fact, some of the grander houses live in a lush, tropical paradise. Except for the high rise buildings looming overhead, you would think you were in a jungle!

Sukhumbhand Paribatra, elected this past Sunday to a second term as governor of Bangkok, has promised to radically increase the amount of park land. By most estimates, Bangkok has less than one-tenth the amount of green space per resident compared with an average city. Let us hope that some of this green space can be expanded out of parks and into our everyday lives.

Of Soi and Motorsai

Thailand is a country of cat-nappers. Wherever I travel, I see plenty of people who, in their boredom, lethargy, or exhaustion, take every opportunity to shut their eyes and rest. Maybe it is the heat and humidity?

On the list of jobs I would not want to have is the motorcycle taxi driver or khon kap rotmotorsai. While the offices of Bangkok are filled with women, the men from the countryside find jobs like this one. For a fee paid to the mafia and a license paid to the government, they receive a colored vest and an assigned stand at the mouth to one of the city’s many long soi or alleys. 

Inhospitable to pedestrians, the soi are usually too narrow, too winding, and too sparsely populated to justify mass transit. Instead, we flag down a rotmotorsai, hop on the back, and whiz our way to the mouth of the soi where we catch a taxi, bus, or train onward. Dangerous? Yes. I only ride the motorcycles on our soi, where the drivers recognize me as a regular and are familiar enough with the traffic on the street to know where caution must be paid. 

Why are our streets laid out in a network of long, narrow soi? It is thanks to the rice-growing past of the central plains of Thailand.

As you can see in the picture above, rice paddies were laid out in long, narrow strips that connected to a main canal or road. As the paddies were drained, paved, and developed (the housing developments are the strips of mostly red roofs) the streets followed the long, narrow contours of the agricultural past. A map of Bangkok shows that legacy: thoroughfares a kilometer or more apart with long, narrow streets stretching out from them. Few of those streets, though, connect the larger thoroughfares.

The result is that many of us live some distance away from major streets and if we aren’t driving, have to find our way out of the soi under an unforgiving sun. It’s enough to make you cave in an ride on a motorcycle taxi or, perhaps, to want to take a nap.

A Room with a View

Cleaning up my company laptop before returning it, I came across some orphan photos that I never shared. Interesting odds and ends like this one:

A toilet at Singapore Changi airport that offers urinal users an expansive view of the tarmac. One imagines that travels could end up standing there much longer than needed, fascinated watching the airplanes coming and going, resulting in long queues for the toilet. Much nicer than the usual airport toilet, no?

Homemade Pizza and Pasta Party

Last Friday we gathered at Chow’s place to cook dinner. The menu: homemade pizzas and pasta. The pizzas were a variety of gourmet types based on the menu of Roberta’s Pizza in Brooklyn, which Chow had tried on a recent visit. The pasta was a homemade chorizo and butternut squash ravioli. And to top it off, I made kaffir lime cheesecake.

Friends gather around the large island in the kitchen, helping to prepare ingredients and eat appetizers. The ravioli are already prepared and drying and we were waiting for the oven to preheat for the pizzas.

Every time I cook at a friend’s house, it is a bit of a logistics ordeal. In this case, I needed my KitchenAid mixer so I could roll out the pasta. I was also bringing a case of Oregon beer.

The beer in question is from Rogue, an independent brewer. The most interest beer of the evening: Voodoo Doughnut Bacon Maple Ale. Had a distinct smokiness with a subtle sweetness on the tail end of the flavor.

For the pasta, I made homemade fresh (not dried) chorizo. I bought pork belly and ground it, adding paprika, garlic, and chili powder.

Browned the sausage in a pan, drained it on paper towels to remove the considerable grease, and then blended it with a butternut squash puree made from locally produced organic squash.

Make the pasta from scratch using Thomas Keller’s “Seven Yolk Pasta” with semolina flour. This is the best way to mix pasta dough, using your hands.

Using a creative technique I picked up watching Season 10 of Top Chef, I layered sage leaves between two sheets of pasta dough and then pressed them several more times. Then flattens the leaves, making the pasta pretty and adding some sage flavor.

Completed ravioli. I cut them relatively small so they didn’t have a lot of filling. In hindsight, I would have added more butternut squash and less chorizo as the sausage overpowered the squash flavor. A few more sage leaves would have been nice, too.

After boiling the ravioli, we fried them in a pan with browned butter and sage leaves. Became a bit more crispy than intended but were tasty all the same.

While I made the pizza dough (with Type 00 flour, a finer texture than regular all-purpose flour), I let Chow coordinate the toppings for each pie.

Half mushroom and pepperoni and half Jerusalem artichoke and pesto.

Salame!

Sliced Brussels sprouts, Boursin cheese, and locally produced pastrami.

Tomato, fresh buffalo mozzarella, and rocket.

For dessert, I once again made the kaffir lime cheesecake that was such a hit on New Year’s Day. It begins by steeping the lime leaves in heavy cream.

The crust is made of graham crackers, toasted pecans, sugar, and butter.

The main ingredients are cream cheese, eggs, the infused cream, kaffir lime zest, and a little lime juice. The juice comes from a regular lime as the kaffir lime juice is much to acidic.

The ingredients are blended together until smooth and light. Truth be told, I add two or three drops of green food coloring just to augment the color. The leaves alone give it only the most pale of greens.

Tap several times to release air bubbles and then cook in a water bath for 40-45 minutes. The key to a cheesecake with a smooth top (no cracks) is to turn the oven off when the edges are set but the center is still very shaky. Then let it complete cooking in the closed (but turned off) oven for another hour. This lets it cool down gradually and prevents the cracks.

The finished product has a mixture of sour cream, kaffir lime zest, and sugar poured over the top. I garnished with a chiffonade of kaffir lime leaves. This worked okay the first time but this time the leaves were a bit tough. I need to choose the smaller, more tender leaves and cut them more finely. The taste of the cake was good, though, and won rave reviews.

Most importantly, we had friends gathered together and shared good food, good wine, and good company. After all, that’s what makes the best meals, right? The company with which they are shared.

Let Them Eat Cake

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Not only is “Let them eat cake” the phrase commonly misattributed to Marie Antoinette, it is also the name of a cute patisserie and dessert bar on Sukhumvit Soi 20 in Bangkok.

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Dessert shops are plentiful in the City of Angels but most western style desserts are rarely worth the calories they contain. Let Them Eat Cake proves to be a delicious exception.

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Located in one of the “community lifestyle malls” – smaller, open air shopping centers that have sprung up across Bangkok like mushrooms after the rain – Let Them Eat Cake is charmingly decorated but a little small. Waits can get long at key times so come early or be prepared to wait.

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I am sorry to say that I don’t remember the names of each of the desserts we tried. I do know that this is a chocolate St. Honoré, an elegant combination of puff pastry, creme filling, and caramel.

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A tart of some sort with a scoop of vanilla ice cream. Don’t know if I ever tried this or just took a picture!

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A tarte au citron – lemon tarte. Was tasty but I found the crust a bit tough.

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I don’t remember what this pink, rose-shaped dessert was. A gelatine and with something inside, I think.

All in all, Let Them Eat Cake offered better, more authentic French style pastries than a lot of shops here in Bangkok. I look forward to my next visit and I promise to take more careful notes – and to sample a wider variety of desserts!

 

An Instagram Couple of Days

My first week of unemployment has been a busy one, filled with all sorts of events. In addition to following up on some additional job leads, I have accepted a freelance project with a former vendor that will give me a few weeks’ worth of work, and I am also providing pro bono organizational development consultation for a friend’s family company. Who knew unemployment could keep you so busy?

Recently, I’ve been playing around with Instagram, a smart phone application that allows you to polish your pictures, applying interesting filters and effects. While I still carry my Lumix LX3 most places, there are times when carrying a bag and a camera is a hassle so I rely on my iPhone. It hasn’t nearly the capability of my regular camera, but in many situations (especially with the help of Instagram) it does a passable enough job. Here are some of the photos I’ve snapped:

Near the office of our condo complex is a small pool with koi fish. It has a resident turtle who likes to sun himself on one particular rock. He was a bit jumpy as I approached to snap this picture so I had to move slowly and be patient.

Over the past week, we have had very humid air which has resulted in some spectacular sunsets. This one was taken while driving north from the Lad Phrao area to attend an evening performance of “Mulan Jr.” by a bilingual primary and secondary school owned by a friend’s family. This picture captures the common sight of power and telephone lines which blight our view.

Warmer temperatures after our very brief (and not very cool) cool season has led to an explosion of blossoms on the trees. Lasting a few short days, these pink blossoms are very pretty but a terrible mess to sweep up once they fall.

The humid weather has also produced some nice sunrises, although because of where our condo unit is situated, we can’t see them this time of year. One morning I was out on an errand to a convenience store to pick up some milk for coffee, and caught this sight of the sun rising over one of our wealthier neighbor’s Italian style home. Ostentatious, isn’t it? I wonder what the rest of the house looks like.

I have been cooking a bit, although not taking many pictures. I roasted some butternut squash from a friend’s organic farm to make a nice soup and also the filling for some ravioli. The squash had a lovely orange color and a sweet taste once roasted.

While crossing Sukhumvit Road, one of the main arteries in Bangkok, I caught this picture of a quarter of Bangkok Metropolitan Authority workers riding on top of a city truck. A warm day, I guess this was the best way to catch a breeze and stay cool!

Green Shoots

Just hung up on my final conference call, the last thing I had to do for my job. That’s it, after more than thirteen years with the company, it is over. It is hard not to be a bit sad. There’s a lot I’ve invested in this company and definitely feel like many of the projects and people are my own children. Anyhow, it has come to an end and it is time to move on.

On another note, here’s a nice picture taken just after a heavy rain of some of the Hawaiian Currant tomatoes growing on my balcony. There are about three dozen fruit on the plant. Of the two plants that are currently flowering, this one is the more productive. Another few weeks and they should be ripe – I hope!

Pancakes with Ice Cream?

It must be a cultural thing. Saturday morning Tawn and I went to a local branch of the Australian chain The Coffee Club for breakfast. Since I had been really good all week, working out and eating well, I decided to treat myself with an order of pancakes. Now, I will admit that pancakes are not the healthiest breakfast out there. But I was not expecting this:

The stack of pancakes was topped with a scoop of vanilla ice cream and some whipped cream. Add to that the syrup and it was a plate full of adult-onset diabetes as the way to start my day. Yikes!

I must say, though, that I like the little circle they cut in the top pancake of the stake, to better hold the scoop of ice cream. Thoughtful.