The Hidden Verdancy of Bangkok

The thing about Bangkok is, it isn’t a very pretty city. Being in a tropical climate, I always expect that it will be a lush, verdant city. Even though I’ve lived here more than seven years, I still have that expectation somewhere in the back of my mind. The reality, though, looks a lot like this:

At least, that’s how it looks from the street level. The buildings are built close to the roads, with only narrow footpaths that are only occasionally dotted with trees. Those trees are usually subject to harsh pruning by laborers armed with sharp saws and little horticultural knowledge.

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Over time, my understanding of Bangkok’s relative verdancy has evolved. What I have come to see is that the city has a lot of green space, but that most of that green space is not public. Sure, as you walk down the alleys and streets, you may see some trees and bushes. For the most part, though, they are on private property, peeking over high walls. As a result, you walk in the full heat of the tropical sun.

Compare this with Singapore (pictured above) or even Kuala Lumpur, cities with mature trees lining the public footpaths, providing shade, cleaning the air, and making the city more pleasant. Now, don’t worry – I’m not about to turn this into a Bangkok-bashing, Singapore-loving entry. I just find the comparison to where our greenery lives interesting. 

When you rise above the street level, as in this view from the Conrad hotel in the particularly lush Wireless Road neighborhood, you can see that there is quite a bit of greenery in Bangkok, although as mentioned before, much of it is not visible from the streets.

In fact, some of the grander houses live in a lush, tropical paradise. Except for the high rise buildings looming overhead, you would think you were in a jungle!

Sukhumbhand Paribatra, elected this past Sunday to a second term as governor of Bangkok, has promised to radically increase the amount of park land. By most estimates, Bangkok has less than one-tenth the amount of green space per resident compared with an average city. Let us hope that some of this green space can be expanded out of parks and into our everyday lives.

A House with Shade

I mentioned in a previous entry that the mid-Sukhumvit area in Krungthep (Bangkok) used to be on the outskirts of town, home to the weekend homes for well-off residents of Rattanakosin Island (the old city) and Yaworat (Chinatown).  Here is a perfect example of the type of home from the 1950s and 1960s that were quite common on the sois of Sukhumvit.

This is the house located in Sukhumvit Soi 12 on the same property as the Crepes and Co restaurant that we enjoy having brunch at.  The house could be described as “modern Thai tropical” and is typical of the old houses in our neighborhood including the one that was just torn down behind us.

While the house itself isn’t that exciting, I love the grounds.  Cool, shady, tropical.  To some extent, this property reminds me of the one my paternal grandparents lived on in suburban Kansas City:

 

This is taken one morning in the summertime probably sometime around 1990.  The row of elm trees branching over the street provides nice shade, a look that I associate with midwestern suburbs.  I lived in this house for fourteen months before moving to Thailand and while I was disappointed by the lack of good sunshine for a garden (except in a small plot in the back), I really liked the shade afforded by the trees.

Whether in Thailand or in the US, I’d like to live somewhere with nice shade trees.  Or vines.