Ugly Farang

There is a small soi (alley) in Krungthep (Bangkok) called Soi Cowboy.  It is a privately owned street that is lined with bars.  In addition to a drink, you can buy true love there, or at least the kind that lasts thirty minutes of an hour.  This is hardly the only street in Krungthep – or the rest of the world – that is like this, but it remains an example of one of the more negative stereotypes that people have about the capital of Thailand.

From my perspective, though, Soi Cowboy and other similar corners of this town are less about the services offered by the locals and are instead more about the behavior of the visitors.  Without demand there would be no supply.  And what ugly demand it is, too. 

Walking by Soi Cowboy on my way to an appointment with my Thai tutor, this was the scene I saw:

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I think the problem is more than adequately captured in the sideways glance the motorcycle driver is giving them.  Inappropriately dressed, these guys are the epitome of what’s wrong with farang.  Ugh…

 

Two Attempts by Army to Clear Streets Fail – 15 Dead

Unfortunately, what the Army had hoped would be a relatively easy and bloodless campaign to clear the Red Shirt protesters from the Ratchadamnoen Avenue area in the old city has been suspended after two overnight attempts left fifteen people dead and more than 670 injured.  The dead are reported to include four soldiers and eleven civilians including a 43-year old Japanese photojournalist.

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Above: protesters flee in the face of teargas dispersed by the Army along Ratchadamnoen Avenue.

The protesters at the Ratchaprasong intersection, the heart of the business and commercial district, are still in place.  This is the strategically more difficult position for the military to access and protesters have blocked the roads with trucks and other barricades.

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Police and protesters face off on Tuesday along Rajadamri Road underneath the BTS Skytrain station looking north towards Ratchaprasong intersection.

This is the worst political violence in twenty years in Thailand and begs the question of how a resolution will be reached.  Tawn and I leave this afternoon for the week and are worried about how this impasse will be broken.  No doubt it will be, but at what cost?

Update: After a previous entry about the protests, Jason had asked whether or not this is basically a class war, as that is the way it is portrayed in some foreign media.  It really isn’t.  In fact, Voranai Vanijaka, a Thai columnist in today’s Bangkok Post, summed it up very astutely:  “In the present strugles, the new elites are making pawns of the poor and the old elites are making pawns of the middle class.”  It really is more about a struggle between two groups of elites for control of a society that is very much a patronage society.  The Red Shirts represent the new elite.

 

 

 

Troops Move on Protesters

After a false but rampant rumor Friday afternoon that the government troops were about to make a move on the protesters at Ratchaprasong intersection, the troops finally moved at 2:00 Saturday afternoon.  They are simultaneously taking back the protesters’ base camp along Ratchadamnoen Road in the old city as well as the streets mentioned in my previous entry around Central World Plaza and Siam Paragon.

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After the government specified the eight levels of engagement they would use in Friday’s newspapers, ranging from “show of force” to “tear gas” to “rubber bullets,” everyone was certain the clearing out would happen on Friday afternoon.

The protesters, though, acted first and caused the government to lose face.  First, they successfully overpowered soldiers protecting the Thaicomm cable TV station, the one that had been broadcasting the UDD’s “People TV” until the government forced them to stop.  In the process, the protesters obtained a significant cache of weapons and ammunition.  There were suggestions afterwards in the media that the army was having a problem with “watermelons” – soldiers who were Red Shirts at heart but dressed in camoflage.

In the second affront to the government, protesters converged on the police headquarters to prevent the police from deploying riot gear and officers.  At the front of the Red Shirts’ crowd was a row of monks, many of whom are from the north and support the UDD’s efforts.  (I’ll save my commentary about the appropriateness of their involvement for another time.)  The Red Shirts figured the police would not attack the monks so it seems they were planning on using them as holy shields to gain entrance to the police compound.

In response, the police put a line of policewomen at the front of their ranks.  This may seem puzzling at first but one of the key tenets of Buddhism is that monks may not touch or be touched by women.  (A very serious matter within the conditions of being a monk.)  So the police figured that putting women at the front of their ranks would prevent the monks and the crowd of Red Shirts behind them from advancing.  It seemed to work.

It is now after 4 in the afternoon.  The Skytrain is closed (to enable rapid troop movement if the streets are blocked) as are all businesses in the central business district.  Hotels in the area probably locked down.  For a second consecutive day my evening plans have been thwarted.

One interesting “coincidence” to consider: in this morning’s Bangkok Post there was an article in which the Prime Minister was conceeding that the government had lost face yesterday but promising they would step up to the challenge.  Smack in the middle of the article was a paragraph that seemed strangely out of place:

“In terms of the military operations, it will be [deputy army chief] Gen Prayuth taking charge,” said the source, adding that highly-respected figures have sent a signal to the prime minister and Gen Prayuth to end the demonstration before the Songkran festival, which starts on Tuesday.  Privy Council president Prem Tinsulanonda is reportedly hopeful that he will be able to accept well-wishers during the Songkran holiday.”

This last sentence is shocking.  The Privy Council is the group that directly advises the throne.  I’m amazed that the Post would suggest that this group might have any direct involvement in the political activites as they are supposed to be above politics.  After the September 2006 coup there were similar suggestions bandied about and many threats against those who made them.

 

Bangkok Broils Under Red Shirt Protest

Those of you who follow the news from Thailand know that for almost the past week, the center of the shopping district – the Ratchaprasong intersection – has been taken over by “red shirt” protesters.  An estimated 100,000 were sitting in the street and plaza outside Central World shopping center this weekend and while the numbers have diminished significantly, the area is still paralyzed. 

And as the Kingdom bakes under warmer than normal temperatures during what is already the usual peak of our hot season, tensions are rising on the political front.  I went down to the area yesterday to take a look around and snap some photos. 

I’ve updated my initial entry with some more pictures, explanation, and responses to your questions and comments.

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Looking west towards the Ratchaprasong intersection from the walkway that leads to Gaysorn Plaza, which is to the right of this picture.

Who are the Red Shirts?

The “Red Shirts” are a coalition of interested parties under the banner of the National United Front for Democracy Against Dictatorship (UDD).  They are mainly supporters of Thaksin Shinawatra, the former Prime Minister who was ousted in a September 2006 coup and subsequently convicted in absentia to two years in prison and the seizure of about $1.3 billion in assets on charges of corruption.  The UDD also represents some other interests, including those who aren’t supportive of Thaksin but who are against the coup and what they see as subsequent interference with the democratic process by a military/judicial elite.

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A map of the area around Ratchaprasong intersection that is affected by the protests.

Affected Area

While there are scattered protests in other areas of the city, especially in the “Old City” where the government ministries are, the area that is attracting the most attention at the moment is the Ratchaprasong intersection.  This is where Rama I Road (what turns into Sukhumvit as it heads southeast) and Rajadamri Road meet at the heart of the shopping district.

Is it paralyzing the city?

Vivek asks about the effect it is having on everyday life in Bangkok.  Central World Plaza, Gaysorn Plaza, and Erawan shopping centers are all located right at the intersection.   It is also the site of the popular Erawan Shrine, often mistakenly called the Four-Face Buddha by tourists.  Siam Square with the Paragon, Siam Center, and Siam Discovery shopping centers is only a block away.  These six major shopping centers have a combined floor space of more than four times the Mall of America’s and have been closed for almost a week now causing an estimated 200-300 million baht ($6-9 million) in losses per day.

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View from the bridge connecting BTS Chidlom station to Central Chidlom department store, looking west towards Ratchaprasong.

UDD guards have set up barricades and are limiting traffic on the affected streets to only local traffic.  For example, the Intercontinental, Holiday Inn Ploenjit, and Renaissance hotels are all in the affected area.  Taxis and private vehicles going to and from these hotels are allowed to enter.  Notice that in the picture above there are no police offers – they seem to be keeping their distance and letting protesters handle things.

Other businesses in the area are shut down or are operating on a very limited basis.  Hotel bookings in the area are down significantly and bookings and tourist arrivals are off about 30% from normal for this time of year, particularly bookings from elsewhere in Asia.  The Stock Exchange of Thailand dropped about 3.5% Thursday on news of the latest emergency decree and anticipation of a worsening political environment.

As for those of us who live here, it is kind of like having the middle of your living room be a no-go zone.  You can still live in your house and get around, but you have to avoid one of the main areas that you would regularly travel to for work or entertainment.  It is inconvenient but not impossible.  Thankfully, this is the slow season for tourism and it is also summer break for students, so there is already less traffic than normal.

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Looking south at the Ratchaprasong intersection.  The Erawan shrine beyond the stage and to the left.  Central World Plaza is back over your shoulder to the right in this picture.

At the main intersection, a stage is set up beneath the BTS Skytrain tracks.  There is a bit of irony in the placement of the stage beneath the metropolitan government’s “Bangkok – City of Life” advertising.

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Turning around 180 degrees and looking north along Rajadamri Road, Central World Plaza is on the left.  There is a second pedestrian walkway in the distance.  Over the weekend the entire street stretching beyond that second walkway was filled with protesters.  At noon on a Thursday the crowds had dwindled and most were seeking refuge in whatever thin stretches of shade they could find.

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Protesters camp out in the median strip foliage under the Skytrain tracks.  Based on the number of plastic bags and other bits of rubbish strewn about, the UDD isn’t doing a very good job caring for its environment.

Are they compensated?

Rob asked whether protesters are there of their own volition or whether they have been paid to be there.  There is no doubt that in a country where the vast majority of people earn less than $150 a month that there has been some compensation in addition to assistance transporting them to the capital.  These protests have gone on for more than four weeks in different parts of the city.  There are reports that protesters have received up to 2000 baht – about $60 – to come to the city.  Most of the supporters are from the Issan region, northeast Thailand, a very poor and relatively dry area in comparison to the rest of the country.

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The banner reads “Welcome to Thailand – We just want democracy”

Is it safe for you to be there?

Jason asked after the safety of me going to the protest area and several other people raised their concerns about my safety in general.  Thanks to everyone for your concern.  In deciding to visit, I evaluated the situation carefully, first viewing it from the passing Skytrain to see what the crowd looked like, and then approaching it on foot from a half-kilometer away. 

As I walked from the Rajadamri BTS station back towards the Ratchaprasong intersection, my senses were on heightened alert and being one of the only foreigners on the street, I was very cognizant of what was going on around me.  Had there been any signs of aggression or any direct conflict between protesters and security forces, I would not have entered the area.  As it was, the police have stayed well to the fringes of the protest and other than scuffles at other locations – the protesters stormed the Parliament building briefly yesterday, for example – there has been a notable lack of confrontation between the protesters and security forces.

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These plastic clappers have become symbolic of the UDD, who use them to cheer speakers and signify their protest.  The ones in the shape of a foot have special meaning because the foot is considered the lowest and dirtiest part of the body.  By raising your foot against whomever (authorities, military, the PM, etc.) you are insulting them.

Why is the government taking a hands-off approach?

Gary commented about the low-conflict approach that the government has taken so far against the protesters.  Among some Thais and almost all foreigners, the question has been why the police and military aren’t moving in and arresting and/or dispersing protesters who are in clear violation of the law. 

The answer is complex and there are some areas of speculation I won’t get into here.  The larger, safer answer is that the military does not want to provoke a situation that could escalate into violence, much like what happened in April 2009, when police moved aggressively against protesters who responded with Molotov cocktails, bombs, and other violence.  For all their image of being peaceful people, Thais’ tempers can be as easily triggered as anyone else’s and the history of such confrontations in Thailand politics (1973, 1976, 1992) have led to the conventional wisdom that such conflicts are not resolved until blood is shed, an outcome nobody wants.

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There’s always money to be made as vendors sell color-appropriate supplies in front of the Louis Vuitton store at Gaysorn Plaza.  At some point, you have to wonder which of the vendors (the foot masseuses, the ice cream vendors?) are there for capitalistic purposes rather than because of their political beliefs.

What’s going to happen next?

Meg commented that she had heard that martial law has been enacted.  While it isn’t exactly martial law, the “Internal Security Act” has been invoked, giving the government and the military more powers to intervene in affairs of safety and security.  Specifically, gatherings of more than five people for political purposes is not allowed.  Additionally, the cable TV and radio stations supporting the UDD have been shut down because they are “spreading misinformation” and “destabilizing the peace”.  The Internal Security Act applies to Bangkok and parts of surrounding provinces.

The protests show no signs of abating and while some people expect the crowds to diminish during the three-day Songkran (Thai new year) holiday next week, you can be certain that the situation will continue to simmer.  We were lucky last year to be out of the country when things boiled over and with a trip to Macao and Hong Kong scheduled for next week, perhaps we will be lucky again.

Without turning this into a news blog or a political blog, I will share any significant developments with you.  In the meantime, I have more food porn to post!

For more information: You may find this article in the Economist helpful in explaining some of the context and background of the current political situation, about which I will not write in this blog because of Thailand’s strict lese majeste laws.

 

Thai Language Newspapers

One aspect of living in Thailand that has caught my attention is comparing Thai language newspapers to the English language papers.  There are some interesting differences.

For starters, there are approximately ten daily Thai language newspapers and two English language papers here in Krungthep.  Bear in mind that the population of the greater metropolitan area is between six and ten million.  The lower number represents the officially registered population, but the higher number represents the many laborers who come in from the countryside but never re-register their address from their home province.

It amazes me that there are so many newspapers here.  Now, they aren’t all newspapers in the way you might define a newspaper if you are from the US or Canada.  Some are more political, some focus mostly on sports, others are mostly tabloids.  But they are all daily news publications.

The English language papers – the Bangkok Post and The Nation – looks and feel much more like a traditional Western paper: news section, sports section, business section, and lifestyle section.  One could argue about the quality of their reporting, but that’s for another entry.

The Thai language papers, even the ones that profess to be serious news outlets, are not shy about using shocking, barely redacted images on their front pages.

Almost every day there is a scene from an accident, a murder, a bomb attack in the South, etc.  The bodies are pixelated in an attempt to protect the sensitivities of the readers, but they don’t try very hard.

These two examples are pretty tame.  The worst image I’ve ever seen was in the case when a young man rather stupidly climbed a pole supporting high-tension power lines.  He was electrocuted and his charred body was caught up in the lines.  The image on the front page of one paper showed the unmistakable image of a charred body, twisted up in the power lines.  Gory.

I guess you could make the argument that showing more graphic images keeps people from living in the illusion of a sanitized world, free of death, violence, and ugliness.  However, I’m not sure I need to see such graphic sights over my breakfast to help me fully apprecaite the world.  Thoughts?

 

Then Why the *#%! Did You Decide to Learn It?

Thursday afternoon I was chatting with Khruu Kitiya (“Khruu” = “Teacher”), my Thai tutor, and she told me about her other job.  While she has a few private students like me, her primary job is working at one of the ubiquitous Thai language schools here in Krungthep.  As Khruu Kitiya explained, her Level 3 class, the one in which writing and reading Thai is first introduced, has been giving her trouble.  Of the six students from six different countries, one of them is proving to be difficult. 

Ugly American It seems that there is always at least one in every class.  He (almost always, it is a “he”) asks too many questions, leads the conversation down rabbit trails, and is always demanding the teacher justify why the language is the way it is.  As near as I can tell from my own experience, it is the analytical types (yes, you engineers!) who seem to have the most trouble just letting go and accepting that there are some things in this world – and particularly some things in languages – that just don’t have a rational explanation.  They are called the exceptions to the rules

In this case, Khruu Kitiya’s one student spent a half-hour debating with her during class about why the Thai government should just march right in (between coups) and fix all the problems with the language.  Those unarticulated consonants?  Get rid of them!  Those confusing spellings that come from Sanskrit?  Change them!  He wanted to know why, if the language had these “problems,” someone didn’t fix them.

Khruu Kitiya, with extraordinary patience that is characteristic of the Thais, tried to explain that even if the government wanted to change the language, they couldn’t.  The language is a deep part of the Thai people’s culture and it is the way it is because it is a reflection of the many cultures and people who eventually became a part of the country.  (In fact, as a historical side note, the Thai government has tried to change the language before under the military leader Field Marshal Pibulsonggram during the World War II era.  The changes did not stick.)

The student used the analogy of an old sofa.  If you had an old sofa in your house and you knew it no longer was useful, why wouldn’t you just through it out?  Needless to say, Khruu Kitiya was not won over by that analogy.

What I don’t understand is why someone would come to a country and choose to study the language if he or she was not prepared to accept it on its own terms.  Why would someone be so arrogant as to think that his or her perspective on what was “right” or “wrong” for another language was superior to the way the language already is?

While Khruu Kitiya wanted to remain non-confrontational, I encouraged her to ask the student next time – in a friendly and non-confrontational way – whether in his country (Italy) it is considered polite to go into someone else’s house and criticize their furniture.  She could explain that in Thailand, one doesn’t go into a house as a guest and then suggest the sofa be thrown out.

Anyhow, this is the type of thing that keeps me from hanging out with many expats.  Whether it be the language or a dozen other things, there are many people who seem to lack any understanding of how to appreciate the culture they have chosen to live in.

 

Phranakhorn Neighborhood

In the past few weeks I’ve had to take several trips into the “old city”, the part of Krungthep (Bangkok) that is on or adjacent to Rattanakosin Island.  Located at a bend in the Chao Phraya River, Rattanakosin Island was created when King Rama I moved the capital of Siam from the west side of the river in Thonburi to the more defensible west side.  He ordered a canal dug running roughly north-to-south and thus turned this portion of the west bank into an island.

Many of the most famous sights in Krungthep – the Grand Palace and the Temple of the Reclining Buddha, for example – are located on Rattanakosin Island.  Of course you would be hard pressed to know it is an island as the roads cross the narrow canal so quickly and subtly that you just transition from one congested part of the city to another.  But, yes indeed, you are on an island.

Squeezed between Rattanakosin Island and Yaowarat (Chinatown) is the Phranakhorn neighborhood.  This is the location of the Old Siam shopping center, which houses three stories of shops specializing mostly in silk.  The alleys radiating through this neighborhood (especially the three blocks of Soi Sampheng) are a treasure trove of adventures, especially if you like shopping for fabrics and associated knickknacks.

Here are some photos I took in and around the neighborhood:

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At one of the intersections on the edge of Chinatown, a surprisingly traffic-free moment.  That changed about two seconds later as the light going the other way turned green.  I think the light reflecting off the building created an interesting pattern.

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A typical corner in the Phranakhorn neighborhood.  You see traditional four-story shop houses alongside more modern structures.  Busses of many colors (the blue and red busses are not air conditioned) crowd the streets.

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The car park at Old Siam (which I previously didn’t realize they had!) offered some hazy views of famous sights in the old city.  Here are the roofs of the Grand Palace and Temple of the Emerald Buddha.

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Turning almost 180 degrees, you can see Wat Saket, known as the Golden Mount, perched atop the only hill in the greater metropolitan area.  This man-made hill came into being early in the 19th century when King Rama III commissioned the construction of a massive chedi (pagoda).  Unfortunately, it collapsed.  King Rama IV had the remains built into a hill with another chedi (the present one) built on top.

For years before the advent of skyscrapers, Golden Mount was the highest point in Krungthep and visitors would visit to take in the commanding view of the city and to enjoy the breezes.

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In the evening, driving back from the old city, this picture was taken just as the light turned green around the corner from the Hualamphong train station.

I hope you enjoyed the mini-tour.

 

God has given you the face of a lucky man – Epilogue Added

Epilogue Below – Tawn had an interesting experience on Monday as the same man approached him.  Read below the original entry for the rest of this funny story.

Original entry Sunday February 7:

Guru%20Pitka “God has given you the face of a man blessed with good luck and happiness,” the Indian man said to me as I sat in Starbucks.  “It is this face that called me to you.  I am a yoga holy man and God wanted me to speak with you.”

I swear, the strangest things happen to me.

Friday afternoon, after meeting briefly with my accountant to hand off some documents, I was sipping a coffee in the Ploenchit Center Starbucks.  There were no other customers in the glass-walled store, unusual given that it was the lunch hour and the store is located in the midst of the business district.

An Indian man, dressed in a long-sleeved shirt and jeans and looking as much like a computer programmer as anything else, came up to me.  This was not the first time I had been approached by foreigners while drinking my coffee.  Fifteen minutes earlier, a British couple, retired and wearing their safari shorts and hats, asked me if I knew where they could find free wi-fi.  My aura must radiate the words “ask me”.

So when the Indian man approached me, I figured he, too must have a question needing answering.

“God has given you the face of a man blessed with good luck and happiness,” the Indian man said to me.  Instinctively, I thought about where my wallet and passport were and made sure I had a clear line-of-sight to my messenger bag. 

“It is this face that called me to you,”  he explained. ” I am a yoga holy man traveling on a journey and God wanted me to speak with you.”

Skeptical, I listed to him, curious how this scam would unfold.  He explained that he was a yoga practitioner from India, showed me a picture of his guru, and told me that my face radiated happiness and good fortune.  He proceeded to explain that despite this good fortune and happiness, that I thought too much and became needlessly engrossed in my thoughts.  Oh, and I am sometimes too direct and honest with my friends.

He asked my name.  “David,” I lied.  Where are you from?  “Canada,” I lied again.

“I will prove to you that God has sent me to you,” he said, pulling out several small sheets of paper and a pen.  I noticed that instead of selecting just a single sheet upon which to write, he kept them stacked.

“I am going to write something on this piece of paper and then I will give it to you to hold.”  He scribbled on the paper then folded it into a ball.  Handing it to me, he instructed me to hold it in my clenched fist.

“What God has told me to write on that paper is known only to me.  You do not know it, right?”  Penn and Teller would have loved this set-up, I thought.  Sure, I agreed.

Putting another sheet of paper on top of the stack he asked me my father’s name.  “George,” I lied.  And your father’s father’s name?  “George,” I repeated.  They have the same name?  “Yes, my father is named after his father.”  Lying is a sin but I wasn’t about to tell him any personal information.  Plus, this was getting fun.

He wrote “George” and “George” on the paper then asked to see my palm, the one which had the ball of paper clenched inside it.  He traced one line and explained that that was my life line and I would have a long life.  I placed the ball of paper on the table.  “Please, hold the paper tight.”

“Think of a number, a single digit number,” he continued.  “One,” I responded as he wrote the answer on the paper.  “Are you married?  Do you have a wife?” he asked.  “Yes, I am married but I don’t have a wife.”  A look of confusion before he asked what I meant.

“I am married.  I have a husband.”

“Why did you do that?” he asked, trying to processes this information.  “You mean, a boyfriend?”

“No, I mean a husband.  Where I’m from, it is legal for two men to marry.”

Regathering his senses, he asked me to think of the type of flower that my… he stumbled for a word… the person you love likes the most.  “Orchid,” I said.  “He likes orchids.”  Orchids was added to the list.

“Let me see your palm again.”  He traced another line while clumsily holding my hand in his.  “This is your love line.  You will have a long and happy marriage.”  He instructed me to close my fist again.

“David,” he said, “God has sent me to you.  We are building a yoga school in India and I am traveling and he has blessed you with the face of a lucky man which is why I was able to find you.  What are the odds of us finding each other in this crowded place?”

I responded skeptically.  “The odds are pretty good considering you were looking for an easy mark and I was sitting by myself in an empty coffee shop.”

He looked hurt.  “You do not believe me?  I will show you that God has sent me to you.  Open the piece of paper in your hand and look at it.”

I opened the piece of paper and, of course, written upon it were “George”, “George”, “1”, and “Orchid”. 

“See?!” he exclaimed, “It is a miracle!”

“Let me see the paper you just wrote on.”  He handed it to me.  Of course, they were a perfect match.  That’s what happens when you use pressure-sensitive paper.  He had performed an elementary sleight-of-hand and swapped the piece of paper that was already in my hand for the one that had been below the list he was writing while he “read” my palm.

Tiring of the charade, I called his bluff.  Explaining his technique and telling him he must think I’m quite stupid to fall for a cheap parlor trick, I wished him well as I stood up and gathered my stuff.  As I walked away, I patted my pocket and looked in my bag, just to make sure his sleight-of-hand didn’t include pick-pocketing.  My wallet and passport were still there.

Another blog-worthy event in my life.

Epilgoue – Februrary 8

Monday after lunch Tawn stopped by the same Starbucks for coffee.  While sitting there, he was approached by the same Indian man who started in with the same line.

“Oh, it is good to see you again!”  Tawn cut him off.  When the man looked confused, Tawn continued, “Don’t you remember me?  You came and spoke with me last week and told me about my good luck.  How are things going with your yoga ashram?”

This continued for a few moments with the man caught off-guard.  Tawn explained the whole thing – “You even did a magic trick to prove that God had sent you to me.  Don’t you remember?” – as if he had actually been there. 

Finally, the man said, “Oh, yes – I had forgotten you because you didn’t make a donation to our ashram.”  When the man asked Tawn if he would donate to the ashram, Tawn declined.  The Indian man countered by offering to tell him more good luck.

“Oh, you told me everything last time!”  Tawn exclaimed.  “You told me about all the bad luck I had had and all the good luck, too!”

The man asked if he could sit down.  Tawn responded that the man was welcome to sit down but that he had an appointment to go to.  With that, Tawn stood up, said goodbye and walked away, leaving the Indian man standing there speechless.

 

Materialism, Violence and Monks

Materialism is widely decried as a negative trait, something that stains us as people and harms our society.  Buddhism is not alone in teaching that materialism is undesirable; all major religions and philosophies arrive at the same conclusion.  The Buddhist take is that materialism fosters a sense of attachment to something in the material realm.  Since the underlying principle of Buddhism is that of impermanence – all things are transitory – that sense of attachment can only create suffering in the long run.

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Of course, it is one thing to look at materialism from a philosophical perspective and quite another to avoid being materialistic!  I greatly admire the saffron-robed monks whom you see on the streets and around the temples here in Thailand.  They take a vow of poverty and generally live very simple lives.

As with any religion, of course, there are those who do not seem to follow the teachings as closely as they might.  At a recent trip to MBK, a bazaar-like mall with hundreds of little stalls, I was surprised to see a few monks shopping.  At a bookstore, one monk was handing money from his wallet to the female cashier – a double no-no in Buddhist teachings!

Of course, there is some question whether these “monks” are actual monks.  I know that when traveling in Singapore and KL I have seen saffron-robed monks who are collecting cash alms on the streets.  Again, a no-no.  It seems that there is not a mechanism in place to authenticate those who claim to be monks.

Negative Depictions of Monks

In a related issue, there is a movie finally coming out here in Thailand called Nak Prok (“Shadow of the Naga”) that will serve as a test case for Thailand’s new film rating system.  You see, one thing Thailand’s censors (officially known as the Ministry of Culture) particularly don’t like, it is the negative depiction of Buddhism.  (Thanks to Wise Kwai for writing about this.)

Consider the case of Apichatpong Weerasethakul’s Syndromes and a Century, which was heavily censored because of scenes showing, among other things, a monk playing a guitar.  (Yet another no-no in the rules that monks must follow.)  The full-length, uncensored version of the movie has never shown in Thailand nor is it available on DVD.

Nak Prok takes things to an even higher level.  The film made its premier at the Toronto Int’l Film Festival in 2008 but has been sitting on a shelf here in Thailand ever since.  The story is about a gang of thieves who bury their loot on the grounds of a monastery.  When they return to dig it up a few years later, they discover that a temple has been build on top of it.  They ordain as monks – forcing the head monk at gunpoint to ordain them – in order to recover the loot.

The film depicts monks holding guns, a gun being held to the head of the senior monk, and the thieves behave in unseemly ways while in monks’ robes, including raping a woman.  If this film doesn’t push the censors’ buttons, what will?


(Sorry, no English subtitles but I think you’ll get the gist of it anyhow!)

Actually, it looks like an interesting and emotionally-charged movie.  We’ll see if it gets the highest restriction – restricting audiences below the age of 20 – or if it gets banned outright.  We take our depiction of religion very seriously here, as you can tell.

In fact, it occurs to me as writing this that the Ministry of Culture may very well choose to censor this entry!  Let’s hope not…