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About christao408

An expat American who moved to Bangkok in 2005 with his partner (now husband). Life is a grand adventure and each experience is worth having if for no other reason than to remind us that we are alive.

Free Ride on a Fruit Cart

Nearly everywhere I go in this city, I keep a camera handy.  That’s one reason I don’t have an SLR and instead go with a smaller point and shoot camera: I need to be ready to take a picture the moment one presents itself.

The other evening, walking with my Thai tutor back towards the Asoke Skytrain station, I watched as a fruit vendor rolled past us in the street, his son sitting on the shelf under the cart.  “Oh, he’s selling children and fruit!” my tutor exclaimed.

Allusions to child trafficking aside, it was a pretty funny image.  When he stopped to sell some pineapple to a tourist, I snapped a photo.

The young man hitching a free ride didn’t seem amused.  I wouldn’t be if I was riding around in the bottom of a fruit card, either.  But not a bad deal, if you think about it.  With ice in the display cases, it was cooler than being out on the street, and with dad doing the pushing, you could just enjoy what little breeze there was.

Still, it reminds me that I was fortunate to grow up in better circumstances than this.  I hope the young man finished his studies and has the chance to go to university.

Riding Around

A week ago Saturday, before I was ill, I was out riding my bicycle around Krungthep and enjoying the relatively cool weather.  After visiting the train station to see the steam locomotives, I pedaled around various districts, snapping shots of interesting things.

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The four corners of the intersection of Rama I and Payathai Roads are fill with Siam Discovery Shopping Center, Siam Square Shopping Center, MBK Shopping Center and the Bangkok Art and Culture Center, our just over a year old museum of contemporary art.  A large public plaza lies in front of it.  There are currently several pieces on display including this metal shack that has the names of major world cities spray painted on it.

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Another piece, ostensibly a meditation on consumerism, is made of these giant sheet metal origami gems spilled out of a huge wastebin.  It is actually fascinating to see how they are constructed and how effectively they resemble cut-glass gems when viewed from a distance.

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Heading further west down Rama I Road (which turns into Ploenchit and Sukhumvit Roads if you continue to the east) I encountered this caravan of tuks tuks heading to the royal plaza of Sanam Luang in celebration of His Majesty the King’s birthday, which was that day.  They are decked out in Thai flags and the yellow flag featuring the royal crest of King Rama IX.

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Not far away, in the Chula neighborhood located back behind National Stadium, are these narrow soi which shop houses lining them.  I found the line of this roof fascinating with so many repeating shapes and textures and colors.

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Another neighborhood near the train station, just on the edge of Yaworat, Chinatown, is clearly a Chinese community.  This single block was in the midst of some festival with locals making merit and offering gifts to the gods.  Evidence that the Chinese, while very integrated into Thai society as a whole, still maintain some distinct cultural practices.  Very vibrant area and fun to ride through.

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Also near the train station is the entryway to a “Turkish bath,” as these dens of illicit pleasures are sometimes euphemistically called.  This is actually on a pretty main thoroughfare and each time I drive by this wood carving catches my eye.  I think it is tremendously kitschy, something out of the 1970s in a Trader Vic’s sort of way.

 

Released

Good news.  My doctor arrived this morning about 9:30, very impressive for her day off.  After reviewing the chest xray from yesterday she is satisfied that the infection is largely gone.  I’m to be released by about 1:00 this afternoon after paperwork, etc. are complete.  She has prescribed me a course of antibiotics to continue taking after my release with a followup appointment and chest xray this coming Friday.

Thanks for all your patience and well-wishes this week.  Regular programming will resume tomorrow.

 

Third Sunset in the Hospital

As I write this I can look out the window and watch my third sunset from room 1001 at Bangkok Hospital.  More than twenty-four hours have passed with no fever and this morning my doctor, who came in on her day off to see me, asked me to stay one more night to continue the IV antibiotics and to take another chest xray to see what’s changed since Wednesday.  She’ll come back Sunday morning, also her day off, to look at the results and we’ll see where to go from there.

The nurses seem optimistic that I’ll be discharged then.  But they were saying that during my temperature and blood pressure check at 10 pm yesterday, too.  Ten pm is a busy time.  One nurse is injecting my antibiotics and another is recording vitals.  To me, it was just a blur of activity.

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Tawn’s toe is better.  It is now just a bit bruised and the plumish purple has largely receded.  He’s been here all afternoon and charms all the nurses.  That’s his nature.

A few more observations of hospital life:

After a day and a half of nonstop IV drip (saline) and 10 cc in-line injections of antibiotics, the veins in my left arm started to feel painful.  At first I couldn’t figure out what it was but after an hour or so, decided to trust my instinct that something was abnormal and spoke with a nurse.  Sure enough, the veins were irritated from the higher volume of liquid, bruised and abused.  By the time they pulled the IV out, there was a nice red splotch tracing its way from the point of entry to the crook of my arm.

When it came to putting in a new line, Tawn told the nurse about the problems finding a vein during admittance.  She assured him that she would send the most beautiful nurse on the floor, gesturing to one of her colleagues.  Then Tawn said to the other nurse, “You may be the most beautiful, but I need to make sure you can also handle this special case.”  With great self-confidence she looked at him, smiled, and cattily replied that she was the best in the ward on both accounts.

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Sure enough, Annie Oakley was right.  She spent about thirty seconds tapping the back of my hand and examining it, then swabbed it and struck a suitable vein in one single, smooth and painless prick of the skin.  As you can see, I’ve not let being in the hospital keep me from working.  This is my version of Sion’s treadmill desk.

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Food here continues to be quite decent.  This morning I was served boiled rice, not quite Chinese style jok which I received the morning before.  This is really just watery rice.  My friend Ken really doesn’t like it so I think of him and our trip to Lampang a few years back every time I eat it. 

What really tickled me, though, was the message on this packet of chilies in vinegar: “To keep chilli fresh longer, No preservatives added.”  Anyone care to explain to me what role the vinegar serves?  It isn’t a preservative?

This afternoon Tawn and I headed downstairs to Starbucks.  I wore cargo shorts and a polo shirt in an effort to blend in to the crowd.  I’m not wearing my hospital kung fu pj’s to Starbucks!  I thought it would be funny to shoot a little video about me “sneaking” out of the ward but decided it was a bit more effort than I wanted to invest.

Okay, that’s all for now.  The night sky is now black and the city lights spread out around me.  Thanks for reading.

 

Under Steam Power

Going back in time to Saturday morning, before I came down with this lung infection:

Three times a year the State Railways of Thailand pulls out a pair of their old steam engines, fires them up and operates a round-trip from Hua Lamphong Station in Krungthep to the former capital of ancient Siam, Ayutthaya.  The three dates are the birthday of His Majesty the King (December 5), the anniversary of the opening of the first railroad service in Thailand (March 26) and the anniversary of the death of King Rama V (Chulalongkorn Day, October 23), under whose guidance this first railroad service was introduced. 

Setting out about 7:15 on a cool Saturday morning, I made Hua Lamphong Station my bike ride destination.  I arrived there twenty minutes later and, it being a holiday, found the station pretty busy with people traveling to and from the provinces.  Rail travel is heavily subsidized (State Railways has never turned a profit) and so the masses travel its more than 4,300 kilometers of tracks to get to and from their homes in the provinces to their work in Krungthep.

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The station itself has a graceful, European style and the exterior is done in Thai Art Deco.  While railway operations in Thailand started in 1897, this new station didn’t open until 1916. 

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There were lots of excited passengers waiting for the ride, taking pictures and looking on with fascination.  Families were climbing onto the front of the engine to pose as people took their pictures.  The railway officials seemed largely unconcerned with the people on the tracks.  The train on the right in this picture actually arrived and departed while I was standing there and it just moved very slowly and honked its horn a few times.  Nobody was injured.

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Shooting a black steam locomotive is tough.  Trying to set exposures is challenging.  I also noticed afterwards that the pictures almost uniformly look better in black and white than in color.  There’s so much texture.

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At eight a.m. the national anthem played as everyone stood at attention.  Then, a moment later, the signal man blew a whistle, waved his green flag, and the train slowly pulled out of the station.  Had I not been on bicycle, I would have ridden it to one of the stations at the north end of town which connects with the subway.  That would have given me twenty minutes or so of a ride without committing to an entire day out of town.

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Maybe in March I can coordinate better and take the ride.

 

Reporting Live From Bangkok Hospital

Sometimes a short staycation is just what the doctor ordered.  Literally.  On my return to the doctor, much as I expected, there wasn’t any significant improvement with my lung infection so I’m doing two to three at Bangkok Hospital.  Thankfully, I bought expat insurance a year ago which covers hospitalization expenses at a pretty generous level.  Didn’t think I’d have the need for it anytime soon but there you go… better to be prepared.

Counter.jpg First off, though, a milestone passed last night.  My SiteMeter counter hit 100,000 unique visitors since September 21, 2006, an average of 115 a week.  The highest week was August 24, 2008 with 726, the week I wrote the featured post “Things I Wish I Had Know When I Started Working.”

While this blog serves primarily as a means to keep my friends and family up to date on what’s going on in my grand adventure in Thailand, I’ve been fortunate to receive so many other visitors.  To those of you who are here, who have stayed, and who actively participate in the conversations, thank you!

Having never been hospitalized before, I was eager to have a new experience to blog about.  So far all I can say is, it’s tedious!  Today was a public holiday so Tawn was with me part of the day before returning home to run some errands and subsequently stubbed his small toe, getting a hairline fracture in the process.  When he returned to the hospital he visited another doctor to receive treatment.  The plum purple toe is slowly losing its swell and hopefully he’ll be back in easy walking condition soon.  So now we’re both ailing!

As for me, I had to deal with a ongoing problem I have – elusive veins.  After poking around several times and not finding an active vein into which to run the IV line, a very sweet and apologetic nurse handed me off to someone else, who was able to strike oil on the first try.

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Labels and stickers are on so I’m now officially the property of Bangkok Hospital.  Apologies for the Sharon Stone-esque shot.  The nurse did not cross her legs.

The “deluxe” rooms that the insurance covers were fully booked so they moved us to a “superior” room at no additional cost.  No kidding, this place is nearly as large as our condo!

I have an amazing view of the city and enjoyed a fantastic sunset.

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The doors are locked to the balcony, though.  Will have to check tomorrow and see if they’ll let me out to take more pictures.  There’s a rooftop helipad just to the right of this picture.  If there’s a lifeflight arrival you know I’ll be filming!  =D

The food service is provided by Sodexho and I receive a menu for the following day.  Two choices for breakfast, lunch and dinner in the genres of Thai (oddly labeled “Oriental” food), Western, Vegetarian, Halal (labeled “Arabic”) and Japanese food.   I’m going with Thai meals as they are tastier and half the cost of the western meals.  Not clear what the prices are for the vegetarian, Arabic and Japanese meals but maybe if I stay longer I’ll experiment.  Here’s lunch as a sample:

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Fruit plate for dessert, a clear soup with dark leafy greens and braised beef, ground pork with broccoli (which needed some fish sauce added for flavor) and a fried white fish with onions, green onions, carrots and cilantro in a sweet and sour sauce.  Huge amount of food and actually, not too bad!

A quick observation: I’ve been on an IV nonstop, a litre of saline slow dripping into my arm with injections every eight hours of this liquid antibiotic.  When they plunger it into my veins, I can feel it making its way up my arm, relatively cool (I guess they refrigerate it) and like an extra wave of blood heading for the heart.  Not painful but a very unique sensation.

Anyhow, I’m here for at least a few days.  No excuse not to stay on top of my blogging, I guess, as I have plenty of free time.  Ciao.

 

Why Don’t We Check You In Right Now?

Wednesday morning I awoke still feverish and with a worsening cough from deep within my chest.  Realizing that rest and plenty of fluids were proving insufficient to overcome this illness, I went to Bangkok Hospital to see a doctor.

Two hours, a chest x-ray, and a battery of blood work later, the doctor said that there looked to be a small infection in my left lung and that while she didn’t think it was pneumonia it would be best if I checked into the hospital right there and then so they could start an IV antibiotic.

I explained that right there and then wasn’t going to work.  For one thing, I had Tawn’s car with me, which he would need.  For another, I didn’t have my computer or any reading material with me and at the very least I would need to let my manager know that I was going to be out for a few days.  She didn’t seem to keen on that idea but she finally relented and gave me an oral antibiotic and instructions to return Thursday morning to check on the progress.

As she only prescribed me two pills and they are taken twice a day, I assume her intention is to check me into the hospital Thursday morning.

I’m not opposed to checking into the hospital if that’s the best course of action.  I am concerned, though, that her decision may be based both on taking the most aggressive course of treatment as well as a realization that my local insurance provider will pay for inpatient treatment but not outpatient treatment, so they stand to earn more by having me check in.

We’ll see how this plays out, but maybe I’ll be writing some entries soon about my first time staying in a hospital.

On an interesting note, the amount I paid for today’s chest xray, the blood work, prescriptions and doctor’s visit (none of which was covered by insurance since it was outpatient) was only US$57.  I think in the US my co-payment would have been higher than that.

 

Is it H1N1? Update

I like to consider myself a man of science.  When I came down with flu-like symptoms (temperature of 102.5 F / 39.2 C, muscle aches, occasional cough) I of course realized that I must have been exposed to a flu virus, although it is unlikely I’ll get tested to know specifically which one it is.

But there’s just a little bit of me that rejects the rational science expectation.  Here’s why: Sunday afternoon I went for a traditional Thai massage, something I haven’t done in at least nine months.  Like shiatsu, Thai massage is about manipulating pressure points and working deeply into your muscle tissue.  It can be painful.

Before going into the two-hour massage I felt fine but afterwards my muscles ached  as if I had been beaten up.  More than once I had to ask the masseuse to lighten the pressure a bit.  Sunday evening my face and neck were flushed and warm although a check of temperature didn’t show any notable elevation.  I drank plenty of liquids and got some extra rest.

Monday, though, it wasn’t getting any better.  I got up and worked for a while and then went back in to take a nap.  Checking my temperature, it was up to 38.1 C (37.0 is normal body temperature) and as the evening went on it spiked at 39.2 C.  Ibuprofen didn’t seem to be making any difference.  Fortunately, I’ve not had any nausea and my appetite has remained healthy.  This evening my temperature seems to have dropped a bit (haven’t check it yet but I feel cooler) and I had a light dinner of whole grain rice and some “gaeng jut” – so called “bland” soup which is broth with some ground meat and soft tofu in it.

I’ll get a full night’s sleep tonight and see how I feel in the morning.  If the temperature drops then I won’t go to the hospital.

Again, I know there’s a rational and scientific explanation for my illness.  But I can’t help wondering if the masseuse didn’t manipulate my energy points in such a way that it brought on the symptoms or opened the door to the virus by messing with my immunity.

Maybe an unfair assumption but I’ll probably be hesitant to get another full-bore Thai massage for a while.  Maybe just stick with the foot and shoulder massage, which is less painful.

Tuesday Evening: Despite taking ibuprofen for the fever, my temperature has gone up and down always staying at least a bit about normal.  Right now at 9:10 pm it is 39.0 C (about 102 F).  Chest congestion has built over the last twenty-four hours with a very deep, rumbling cough beneath my breast bone.  I’ll head to the hospital in the morning and have this checked out.

 

Thai Style Pumpkin Soup and Cranberry-Beet Relish

To catch you up on some of the recent culinary delights that have come out of my kitchen (well, culinary attempts, at least…) here is an update on two different dishes.

The first was a Thai-style pumpkin soup made after Tawn requested that we have some soup for dinner one evening.  I didn’t follow a particular recipe with this one but just pulled it together by taste.  

Base ingredients: pumpkin, butternut squash, onions, carrots, celery, chicken stock.
Aromatic ingredients: lemongrass, galangal root (similar to ginger but less harsh), bay leaves, curry powder, cayenne pepper.
Finishing ingredients: fish sauce, coconut cream, palm or brown sugar.
Optional ingredients for garnishing: bacon, cilantro, sour cream or parmesan cheese.

Here’s a picture of the finished product, which tasted wonderful.

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Coupled with a video that shows the whole “making of”.

 

The second dish is a cranberry-beet relish that I made for our potluck Thanksgiving over at Vic’s house.  I stumbled across several recipes for this and so improvised a bit. 

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Sautee a chopped onion and then add the cranberries, stirring for a few minutes but not cooking so much that they begin to pop.

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Add shredded raw beets – this would actually be gorgeous with golden beets – and cook a while longer until the mixture softens.

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For flavoring add the zest and juice of two oranges.

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Sweeten to taste with maple syrup.  The natural sugars in the beets offset much of the tartness from the cranberries, so I find that you don’t need much maple syrup.  If needed, add a little bit of salt to the mixture.

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Let cook until at a nice consistency.  Since I like to still have some whole berries left, I reserve about a cup of berries and add them later in the cooking process so they don’t pop before the relish is done.  This turned out as a very nice alternative to regularly cranberry relish and several diners commented that while they don’t normally enjoy cranberry relish, they particularly liked this recipe.

 

Zense

We were recently paid a visit from Singapore by David and Chor Phan.  To celebrate the cool season we dined at the 18th floor rooftop restaurant/nightspot called Zense, located at Central World Plaza on top of the Zen department store.

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There are several different restaurants that provide food for Zense so you can order from a combined menu and then your server coordinates the orders from each of the restaurants.  Service was good and the food, while a little pricey (which one would expect from a rooftop restaurant), was pretty good for the money.  A fun place to enjoy the cool weather and take in the lights of the city.

Here’s a selection of some of the dishes we had:

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Assorted appetizers: spicy shrimps, crab cakes, baked oysters and smoked salmon.

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Bacon-wrapped sweet potato French fries!  Yummy…

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Tawn’s obento box unagi, grilled and glazed eel.  He said it was very tasty.

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Australian sirloin marinated in a Thai-style lemongrass and citrus marinade, grilled medium rare and served with spicy chili and fish sauce dipping sauce.  A contemporary take on a classic northeastern Thai dish.

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Sticky rice (three colors) with mango.

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Mixed berries tart.