Cooking – Attempting the Truffled Egg Toast

On our last two visits to New York City, Tawn and I have fallen in love with a small panini shop and wine bar in Greenwich Village called ‘ino.  The ambience is fantastic, the service is friendly, and most importantly the food is good.  After buying their cookbook on my last visit, I’ve eagerly awaited the opportunity to try and recreate their most perfect menu item: the truffled egg toast.

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Perfect for breakfast, perfect for lunch, perfect for dinner, the truffled egg toast (original pictured above) is a thick slick of white bread, lightly toasted, with a pair of egg yolks gently baked in a well in the center of the toast while Fontina cheese melts along the edges.  Afterwards, it is drizzled with truffle oil and generously salted and peppered.  Lightly grilled asparagus provide the perfect condiment.

It is hard for me to convey in words just how wonderful the combination of flavors is: Truffle, egg, cheese, and asparagus just go together really well.

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The big problem I faced here in Thailand was finding a loaf of bread that isn’t sliced.  I could bake it myself, but the ideal bread for this is a white sandwich bread, not something rustic like my homemade bread turns out.  Finally, Tawn spoke with a manager of a bakery and they said we could order unsliced loaves a day in advance.  Once we got the bread home, I realized it was a little too airy, sweet, and eggy – kind of like Portuguese sweet bread – to be ideal.  But I decided to press ahead with the experiment.

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After toasting the bread lightly in the oven, I used a serrated knife to cut a 2-inch square in the middle of each slice, cutting about halfway into the 1-inch thick bread.  Then, using the handle of the knife, I tamped the bread down, forming a well.

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The next step was to line the edges of the toast with Fontina cheese.  Except, in cheese-unfriendly Thailand, I couldn’t find Fontina so substituted Gouda.  Cheese is very expensive here and the types you find are very inconsistent.  A few months ago, I saw Fontina.  But when I went to the store this time, there was none.

In the middle of the well I put the yolks of two eggs.  When I first attempted this recipe after our first visit to ‘ino (before we bought the cookbook), I didn’t realize they only used the yolks so when I put a whole egg into the well, it just spilled over the top of the toast.  This seems to illustrate the saying, “If all else fails, read the directions.”

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Not following directions, I broiled the toast rather than baking it, so the egg set a little firmer than was ideal.  That said, upon pulling the toast out of the oven, I stirred the egg with the tip of my knife and it turned out to be plenty runny.

The biggest problem was my truffle oil.  This oil has a limited shelf life and the oil we have is over a year old.  The strength of the truffle aroma is nearly gone, so we weren’t getting a healthy dose of that heady earthiness that makes truffles so wonderful.  Thankfully, we had a jar of black truffle salt on hand, so I liberally sprinkled that on top of the toast.

The conclusion?  Well, I don’t think I’m going to put ‘ino to shame anytime soon.  But with a little practice, a better choice of bread, cheese, and oil, and more attention to the directions, I think I’ll have a truffle toast worth serving to guests.  And considering that the real deal is 9,000 miles away, I think Tawn and I will be able to live with second-best until our next visit to New York!

 

Land Use in Central Thailand

Why is traffic in Bangkok so bad?  This is a persistent question that has been at the back of my mind for the more than five years I’ve lived here.  As someone interested in urban design and land use, I always wonder: Is this traffic inevitable or could it have been avoided? 

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How does this…

While bicycling on the outskirts of the city last Sunday, I realized that part of the answer lies in looking at the historical land use patterns and how long, thin rice paddies that cut between canals have led to a network of roads that are insufficient to handle Bangkok’s more than six million residents.

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Turn into this…

While this realization is the result of consuming other people’s writing and observations and digesting them, it wasn’t until I was riding through an area that is actively undergoing the transformation from rice paddies to development that it became clear to me.

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And, eventually, become this?

The result is this six-minute video project, which I hope you’ll find interesting.

 

Is the “Share” function missing for you?

In the past week or so, I’ve noticed that the “Share” icon is missing from my entries as well as other Xangans’ entries.  This happens both when I’m signed in as well as when I’m not signed in.  The icon used to be adjacent to the “Recommend” icon.

I’ve posted a topic regarding this on the “Help” page and have also sent a message to John.  I’m curious if you’re able to share entries or are having the same problem

Arts and Crafts Projects for a Winter’s Day

Day two of the bathroom tile work is underway.  Tawn, the handyman, and I spent ten minutes discussing the different options for how best to arrange the tile.  It is kind of hard to explain, and I’ll post pictures about the whole process once it is done, but the challenge is in how the shower glass and tile floor come together.  For some reason, building a lip like you have in western-style showers is just beyond comprehension here.  Plus, it would require us to replace the glass we currently have.

Anyhow, while I wait for that project to come to a (hopefully satisfactory) conclusion, I want to share a picture that I took of some new year’s decorations at Siam Center mall.  This was one of the first malls in Bangkok, dating back to 1973.  It has undergone countless rennovations (two in the five years since I moved here) to keep it fresh for the young crowd and it has managed to remain popular.

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Siam Center as it looked shortly after its opening in 1973.  On the right is Rama 1 Road (which becomes Sukhumvit further east).  The space on the left is what today is Siam Discovery Center and a multistory car park is back behind (to the left in this picture) of the malls today.  Siam Paragon, which was built on the site of the former Intercontinental Hotel, now sits down the street (to the right in this picture) of Siam Center.

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From another angle looking towards Rama I Road and Siam Square on the far side.  This picture is taken from roughly where the large LED video screens are in the plaza between Siam Center and Siam Paragon.

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The same side of the Siam Center mall today, with the Siam BTS Skytrain Station in the background.  Amazing how young and fresh Siam Center looks.  Must be the availability of inexpensive, high quality face-lifts here in Thailand!

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The mall has three four-story atrium areas and these are currently decorated with these large signs as well as smaller shapes.  At first they didn’t catch my attention.  But as I looked more closely I started to wonder what they were made of.  It looks like color pencils.

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Turns out, they are constructed of plastic straws!  At first I thought they were solid objects but eventually I figured out that the shapes are formed of plastic sheets with straws glued on top.  The sides, though, are made of thousands of straws.  Tedious work to make, I’d imagine…

 

All Torn Up

Not me, it’s my bathroom that’s all torn up.  After three years of dealing with a shower whose drain is not the lowest point, we finally began work today on a project to remove, regrade, and re-tile the shower and adjacent floor.  Things are kind of a mess.  Pictures and more details coming soon.

Baking Magnolia’s Vanilla Cupcakes

Baking project!  Tawn’s aunt had her 70-somethingth birthday celebration today so even though I was not going to attend, I helped prepare two dozen cupcakes.  Tawn prepared brownies, too, but since he made those, not I, they aren’t covered in this entry.

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The recipe for the cupcakes came from the Magnolia Bakery’s “More from Magnolia” cookbook.   The Magnolia Bakery is a well-known spot in New York’s West Village, popularized in the TV show “Sex and the City” as it is just around the corner from Carrie Bradshaw’s fictional apartment. 

We visited Magnolia Bakery last March and I have to say that while their cupcakes are tasty, they aren’t anything special.  Nonetheless, this was the cookbook we had at hand.

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The recipe we used was for their Vanilla Cupcakes.  Instead of self-rising flour, I used a substitute of cake flour, baking powder, and just a little salt.   The recipe is easy enough to use, made all the easier if you have a stand mixer.

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You may notice that I have five eggs in the bowl but the recipe calls for just four.  I was on the fence because the eggs look smaller to me than the standard “large” egg.  The sizes were also inconsistent.  Ultimately, though, I stuck with four eggs and placed the extra one back in the refrigerator.

This project wasn’t really about taking pictures and writing, though.  It was about filming and editing a really cool video and, in all modesty, I think this one is one of my best.  I hope you enjoy it.

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The end products, which were tasty and very pretty in a pastel sort of way.  If I had it to do again, I would sift my powdered sugar for the buttercream frosting as it ended up just a wee bit gritty.  Other than that, though, no complaints.

Happy Belated 150th Campari

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Neither Tawn nor I are big drinkers.  That said, we do enjoy an occasional drink, be it a glass of wine with dinner or a cocktail.  My personal favorite (and one Tawn quite enjoys, too) is an apéritif, preferably made with Campari.  An apéritif is a drink enjoyed before dinner, with properties designed to stimulate the appetite.  There is nothing finer to accompany the transition from a busy day to a relaxing meal, in my opinion.

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My apéritif of choice is Campari, a bitter infusion of herbs and fruits (including chinotto, a bitter Italian citrus) in alcohol.  The bitter-sweet flavor appeals to me and it has an almost poetic fit to the role it plays in being a bridge between the periods of my day, as I go from the “bitter” of a full day working to the “sweet” of an evening spent in the company of those I care about over a meal.

Perhaps I am overly sentimental.  Maybe it is just the sexy ruby red color that I enjoy so much.  In any case, 2010 marked Campari’s 150th birthday, an occasion I managed to only just recently learn about.  I discovered this milestone when I pulled out a new bottle of the bitters and noticed that the normal label was replaced by a special one.

It turns out, Campari Group commissioned three celebratory labels:

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The three labels are different but complementary and together they describe the various facets of the universe of Campari.  (From left to right, as described by the Campari press release.)

Tobias Rehberger’s neo-rationalist world comes to life by means of digital design. His Campari label is built around the concept of a “magic potion”, a “bewitched beverage” emphasized by the bright colors employed in his art work. His work is abstract and is open to various interpretations, like Campari.

Vanessa Beecroft, the well-known artist celebrated for her performances and her watercolors, expressed her own art for Campari focusing on the female image, coherent with her art vocation that uses women’s prototypes to project the artist’s own image. She imagined an ethereal female character wrapped in a fantastic head of hair, red, like the glass of Campari she is holding.

avaf, an art collective who label themselves as “nomads”, presents an extravagant and cross-bred artwork, a typical example of their style. Their interpretation translated into a strong and independent female image, a cross-breed between the jazz singer Nina Simone and the Egyptian queen Nefertiti.

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There are many ways to enjoy Campari.  My favorite pre-dinner drink is an Americano, so named because it was especially popular with American tourists to Milan, Italy during Prohibition.  The Americano is 1 ounce of Campari, 1 ounce of sweet vermouth, topped off with soda water and a twist of lemon (or, my preference, an orange slice.)

Finally, to leave you with a twist (to go with your Negroni, Americano, Campari and soda, or just plain tap water), here’s a Campari commercial from early 2005 titled “The Secret”.  Created by D’Adda Lorenzini Vigorelli BBDO in Milano, Italy, and produced by Radical.Media, this clever and stylish ad was a finalist for the 2005 Epica Awards, Europe’s premier creative awards.  I hope you enjoy it!

Filibustering My Request to Reconsider the Filibuster

With the start of a new congressional season, a proposal has been made by Senator Mark Udall (D-CO) to change the rules about how the filibuster can be used in the Senate.  Over the past fifty years there has been a gradual increase in the use of filibusters to bring legislative progress to a halt.  Filibuster use (as represented in the chart below showing the frequency of cloture votes to end a filibuster) has skyrocketed in the past decade.

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The Senate’s history as a calmer, more deliberative body than the House of Representatives is an important one to preserve, but filibusters have become more of a stalling tactic than a deliberative one and instead of protecting the interests of the minority, serve instead of hijack the interests of the majority to accomplish what they were elected to do: legislate.

Doing my duty as an actively engaged citizen, I emailed my senators to let them know I am in favor of the proposed changes.

One, Pat Roberts (R-KS), responded with a virtual filibuster.  His email response explained that as a member of the Senate Rules Committee, he held hearings on this topic last year and is not in favor of any changes.  “My statements are available on the committee’s website,” he wrote.  On that page I found the link to download the 666-page Publication on the Filibuster Hearings Series.

I’m glad Senator Roberts feels that the clearest and most effective way to summarize his objections to changing the Senate rules is to direct me to a 666-page document.  And one wonders why so few Americans participate actively in civic life.

 

Food in Bangkok: New York Cheesecake

New York is a city that holds a special place in the imagination of many people around the world.  So it is no surprise to see the mystique of New York used to sell everything from condos to makeup here in Bangkok.  The most recent addition to this “Big Appleing” of Bangkok is a small restaurant at the Crystal Design Center: NYCC – New York City Cheesecake.

Located in a rapidly expanding strip mall in the suburban outskirts on the northeast flank of the city, NYCC claims to offer a real taste of New York with not only authentic New York style cheesecakes but also pastrami sandwiches.  Being a lover of pastrami, I had to go out and try this for myself.

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The restaurant is really more of a shack or hut, located between other buildings at the Crystal Design Center.  CDC is a design-oriented strip mall located on Ram Intra Road, an already overcrowded road that extends from Ekkamai Road out to the suburbs.  Despite the overcrowding, the past five years have seen an explosion of businesses and housing this direction.  Perhaps the good news is that with these new shopping centers on the periphery of Bangkok, the traffic on the streets in the core of the city will not get any worse.

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The interior of NYCC looks more like a noodle shop with stools and small tables.  It isn’t much of a surprise then to learn that NYCC has a sister shop behind it that sells – wait for it – noodles.  Framed posters of Broadway shows lines the windows and various New York theme tchotchkes sit for sale on a side shelf.  The friendly staff take the orders and deliver the foods.  On a weekday afternoon around lunchtime, the place was not very busy.

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NYCC’s motto is “cheese will never cease” – I’m not sure what that means.  For some reason, it makes me think of an alternative definition of the word “cheese”.

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After a few minutes longer than I thought it would take, our sandwiches arrived.  I ordered the pastrami and Tawn ordered the chicken club.  The sandwiches are monsters, shooting for the “mile high” measurements for which New York deli sandwiches are know.  Let’s take a closer look at what we really have, though, from the toothpick down:

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The bread was actually pretty good, although it would have been a bit nicer lightly toasted.  It wasn’t a nice dark rye but was slightly more substantive than the wonder that passes for bread all too often here in Bangkok.

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In the middle, which is where most of the bulk is in this sandwich, is a stack of two types of lettuce, a stack of raw onion, and a stack of tomatoes.  The problem here (other than whether or not there should be any vegetables on a pastrami sandwich) is that everything is stacked, so you get a lot of onions in one bite, for example, and no onions in another bite.

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At the bottom is the pastrami.  I’ll give them credit for tasty pastrami, albeit sliced a little thicker than I like.  It was tender and smoky.  There was also not much of it, especially when compared with the bread and vegetables.  As for the sauce, the sandwich was over-sauced – which is not unusual here in Thailand, with brown mustard (nice) and Thousand Island (wrong – this isn’t a Reuben).

How to rate it overall?  Well,  for a sandwich that carried a price tag around 340 baht (about $11.40), it was mighty short on meat and might high on everything else… except a pickle, which would have been a nice touch.  Now, I’m not a New York, just a frequent visitor.  But from what I know of New York pastrami sandwiches, this is what my expectation looked like:

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This is a pastrami sandwich from the Carnegie Deli.  We can debate which deli is the best, but in my mind, this is a good example of what a pastrami sandwich should be.  Lots and lots of pastrami with little or nothing else between the bread.  Now, I understand that beef is expensive here and I’m not opposed to paying a good price for something that approximates a real New York style pastrami sandwich.  But if I’m going to pay that much money, let’s lose the salad, add a little more meat, and put the sauce on the side.

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As for Tawn’s chicken club, it was a similar tower of salad but had a very substantial amount a chicken at the base – probably two breasts’ worth.  The meat was bland and instead of being thinly sliced was more slab-like.  It was about 250 baht and, from Tawn’s perspective, overpriced. 

As for the eponymous cheesecake, a recent dining companion (at another meal) told me she thinks the cheesecakes are flown in from the Cheesecake Factory in the United States.  I don’t think that’s the case, but the potion sizes are enough to make you believe it!

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We ordered a slice of regular cheesecake with strawberry topping, more than ample for two (or four!) to share.  I’ll give them credit for making a pretty passable New York style cheesecake.  The consistency is smooth, solid but not too dense, and nicely flavored.  It had obviously been frozen previously as the center of the slice was still icy – a faux pas when service cheesecake – but it was better than a lot of the overly airy cheesecake I’ve had in Bangkok.

We ended up with a bill of about 850 baht for two sandwiches, one slice of cheesecake, and two bottles of water.  For Bangkok, that’s a pretty pricey meal, especially for a lunch.  It was fun to try and NYCC had some things going for it, but not so many that I’d be easily tempted to make the trek out Ram Intra.  Instead, I’ll just save my pastrami cravings for my new trip back to the real New York.

Beautiful Sunset

This afternoon I had to go to a photo shoot.  I’ve been invited to publish some of my entries from this blog on another site, one that is Thailand-specific.  To keep a consistent look and feel, the editor asked me to stop by the office and have their photographer shoot a new head shot for my profile.  No worries – I’m not going anywhere, just broadening my audience.

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On the way home, I noticed that we were in for a gorgeous sunset.  The weather has been cool thanks to a system dropping in from China and the breeze, which had been strong the past few days, was very calm today leading to hazy but cloud-free skies.  I stopped by Benjakiti Park next to Queen Sirikit Convention Center and shot this picture.  It was a beautiful sunset.