Food in Kauai: Barbecue Inn

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After our jaunt around the north coast of the island, we stopped for dinner in Lihue at a small hole-in-the-wall place that my parents stumbled upon their first night on the island when they stayed in a hotel nearby.  The restaurant is called Barbecue Inn, an institution opened by Masaichi and Hanayo Sasaki in 1940.

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The storefront is located on Kress Street, a small alley named after what used to be a popular department store in town. 

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Specializing in affordable family cuisine, Barbecue Inn serves American and Japanese food and everything – everything, they emphasize – is made from scratch.  The interior is clean but definitely a bit of a time warp.  Service is very friendly, though.

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Tasty homemade bread

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Miso soup

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Teriyaki beef kabob with tempura.  My mother had this and it was tasty, although the sauce was a bit heavy.

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Panko crusted mahimahi served with tartar sauce.  My father had this and while it was tasty, the breading obscured the fish inside.

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My dinner, kalua pork and cabbage.  Kalua pork is traditionally cooked in an underground pit but these days refers generally to slow-cooked pork.  Really tasty with a smoky smell.  The only drawback was that there was a lot of the same (albeit tasty) flavor on the dish.  It would have benefitted from a smaller portion and something (maybe Japanese style pickles?) to contrast with the flavor.

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The stand-out of the menu was Tawn’s order, mahimahi encrusted in a combination of macadamia nuts, panko crumbs, and sesame seeds, topped with coconut cream and spinach sauce.  This was amazing.

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The real treat, though, was the macadamia nut cream pie.  I’ve made two attempts at making this pie and have encountered some problems.  So you can imagine how excited I was to find it here, perfectly fluffy and flavorful.  While they wouldn’t release the recipe, they did answer my question about what thickener they use: a combination of cornstarch and gelatine, which helps explain the chiffon-like texture.

I have to admit, though, that now that I’ve finally encountered that long-lost taste memory again, I feel less need to try and recreate it.  In short, the pie was very good but I realize that in my memory, I had built up how wonderful macadamia nut cream pie is, to a level that can never be achieved in real life.  Maybe.

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After dinner we drove around the corner to see this small local motel my parents had stayed at their first night on the island.  It is well-maintained but is definitely straight out of the 50s or 60s!

 

Food in Bangkok: Goose at Chua Kim Haeng

The final day we were showing our Singaporean guests around, we decided to pile into taxis and travel halfway across the city for some famous Chinese five-spice goose from Chua Kim Haeng restaurant.

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This restaurant has been around for decades with two adjacent dining rooms on Pattanakan Road, which is what Petchaburi Road turns into as it heads east of Ramkhamhaeng.  They have recently opened another branch.

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Jasmine rice.

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Gaeng joot gradook muu – Slow-cooked clear soup with pork ribs and daikon radish.

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Gapow plaa pad haeng – fried fish maw stir fried dry with green onions served with a sweet chili dipping sauce on the side.

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The main course: braised goose, known as han paloh.  “Paloh” refers to the cooking a dish with Chinese five spice, but this is a general term in Thai.  Each restaurant has its own specific recipe for what those spices are and in what combination. 

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Chua Kim Haeng is famous especially for its dipping sauce, a combination of vinegar, garlic, and yellow chili instead of the usual green or red chilies.  The sauce has a flavor almost of pickling spice and contrasts well with the rich flesh of the goose.

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Goose innards.  Can you name the parts?  Liver, heart, gizzard… yummy!

The Singaporeans loved it.  Of course, this is a Chinese style restaurant so they must of felt right at home.  In fact, one of our friends ran into someone he knows, another Singaporean who was traveling with his family, sitting at the table next to ours.  Small culinary world, isn’t it?

Bangkok’s Top 50 Street Food Stalls

Food in Bangkok.  While my blog covers a wide range of topics, “food in Bangkok” would be a fair summation of one of the major topic areas.  About the same time that I started my “Great Eats in Bangkok” video series, covering various types of food that you really must try while you are here, I had the fortune to be introduced to the author of the newly-released book, Bangkok’s Top 50 Street Food Stalls.

Enjoying a pre-dinner drink as I waited for guests at Soul Food Mahanakorn, the owner handed me a copy of this book and asked if I had seen it yet.  Thumbing through the well-organized pages, each of which lists another great street food vendor, I expressed my admiration.  At which point, Jarrett introduced me to the author, Chawadee Nualkhair, who was dining at the table just behind me.

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I know what you are thinking.  “If ever there was a book I would have bought Chris for his birthday, this is it.”  Right?  Of course you would have.  No need, now, since I already have a copy.  You can get one from local Bangkok bookstores.

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It turns out that Khun Chawadee is the person behind the useful foodie website Bangkok Glutton.  A Thai who was raised in western Pennsylvania state, she has split her time between the US and Thailand for the last fifteen years.  Bangkok’s Top 50 Street Food Stalls grew out of her desire to eat great Thai food when here, combined with the usual apprehension most foreigners have when approaching Thai street food.  We’re unsure what the food is, what the specialties are, how to order them, and how to eat them once they are served.

Khun Chawadee’s book does an excellent job of laying all that out in the picture-rich pages.  There’s even an explanation of the seating arrangements, what condiments and utensils are on the table, and whether or not there are restrooms at the shop.  Talk about handy information!

After a few email exchanges, Khun Chawadee invited me to join her for lunch at a Muslim restaurant in Banglamphu, the shady older area of the city located between the Chao Phraya River and backpacker headquarters Khao San Road.

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After I arrived at our designated meeting spot more than a half-hour late (note: river taxis are not as fast as you might think), Khun Chawadee led me on a brisk walk down Phra Athit Road, around a few corners, and down the street.  Our destination:Aicha Rot Dii (“Aicha Good Taste”) Restaurant, a literal hole-in-the-wall that many people would pass by, not realizing what good eats are inside.

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From the street side of things, all you see is a narrow walkway passing a food vendor.  But if you walk in, you pass a long row of prepared food that opens into an interior courtyard, clean and relatively well ventilated.  The menu is Thai Muslim, meaning mostly southern Thai style food.  Much of the influence comes from Malaysia, Sri Lanka, and India and beef is the meat of choice.

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Our meal included an oxtail soup that was wonderfully gelatinous.  Unlike western-style oxtail soups, which are often tomato-based and very hearty, this soup had a clear broth with fried shallots and herbs and was very light but full of flavor.

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We tried a noodle dish called guaytiaw gaeng nua, a curried beef noodle soup.  The noodles are hidden under this spicy curry broth but the beef was very tender.  The curry was very nice, too.

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We tried two rice dishes, khao mok gai and khao mok nua.  The name “khao mok” implies “buried under a mountain of rice”, so the dishes are chicken and beef, respectively, served with a heaping portion of a biryani-style rice.  Of the two, I thought the beef was better.  The sauce, which at first glance you might fear to be a horrendously spicy chili sauce, is actually made with cilantro, lime, and sugar and is very sweet and sour.  The rice itself was a little disappointing, lacking in flavor compared to other khao mok dishes I’ve had.  The beef, though, was very tender and flavorful.

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The seating place is friendly to foreigners with large pictures of all the dishes on the wall with their names in both English and Thai.  You can pretty much just point and eat.  Beverages run the range of sodas, waters, and some Thai juices.  Be sure to bring your own napkins.

This was a pleasant discovery.  More pleasant was the opportunity to meet Khun Chawadee and learn a bit more about what drives her passion for Thai food.  Find out more about the book at Chawadee’s blog. She’s also on Twitter as @bangkokglutton.

 

Great Eats in Bangkok Volume 1 – Guaytiaw

As Andy whirled into town for a three-day side trip from visiting his parents in Taipei, I had high hopes of producing this mega-video in which we would taste all the great things to eat in Bangkok.  Sure enough, during the course of two full days we ate a whole lot of things that would qualify for the “great eats” list.  But as I sat down to edit the video, I realized that I didn’t have enough footage to really address that many dishes.

Since I promised a video a few days ago, I’ve gone ahead and edited a first volume of what I expect will be at least a dozen (and probably more) videos that highlight various great eats in Bangkok.  Volume One focuses on guaytiaw – rice noodles – and particularly the pink-broth fish soup called yen ta fo.  It doesn’t provide as much depth on the various types of guaytiaw as I’d like, so I imagine a revisit of the subject will occur one of these days.

Before editing the next video, I’m going to shoot some more footage and do better advance planning so that I can make sure that future volumes provide you with the high level of quality that you deserve.  In the meantime, you can visit Andy’s blog to see some beautiful pictures of the other foods we ate and the places we went. 

Please share any feedback you have, let me know if there are any particular types of Thai food you would like me to address.

Thanks to Andy for taking the time and energy to visit.  We had lots of fun and look forward to seeing you again soon.

Food in Bangkok: Grand Shagarila Restaurant

In December, Tawn’s university friend Ko was married.  Tawn and several of their close friends helped with various aspects of the wedding.  For example, Tawn served as the emcee both in Thai and English, since the groom’s family are from Sweden.  As a thank-you, Ko’s mother took the friends (and me) out for a very nice dinner at the Grand Shangarila Restaurant, an old-school Chinese restaurant in the Silom area known for their seafood hot pot and lobster sashimi.

Let me share our banquet with you:

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A choice of sauces and condiments: kimchee, soy sauce, wasabi, and Thai style dipping sauce.  Korean, Japanese, and Thai all in one row.

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Look at the beautiful kimchee!

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Newlyweds Per and Ko take pictures of the appetizer plate, while Ko’s mother looks on.

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Can you name all the appetizers?  From the back, clockwise: fried daikon radish cake; fried small fish; fried deer tendon with ginkgo nuts, and – anyone want to guess what item four is?  Please see below…

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If you guessed duck tongue, you would be correct.  There’s a little cartilage spine in them after you eat the meat.  Who knew?  Tasty, though.

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A lovely roast duck was brought to the table and presented to us, then the staff carved the crispy sweet skin off and wrapped the skin in these delicate crepes with plum sauce and green onion inside.

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Close-up view of the crispy goodness of roasted duck skin.

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The main course: lobster sashimi.  Look at the size of it!  Everyone is in awe…

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Creature from the black lagoon…

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The sweet meat, which we could either boil briefly in a broth and eat, or simply eat raw after a brush of soy sauce.  In my opinion, raw was the better option as it was tastier.

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My goofy husband pretending to be impaled on the lobster.

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Also served was a boat of sashimi dragon fish, a firm white fish that was boiled in another broth.

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There were two broths, one made from some of the lobster’s blood and Chinese cooking wine and another from the fish bones.  Don’t mix!

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Also served with the lobster was a little bowl of – any guesses?  A gelatin made from the lobster’s blood, with Sprite poured over it.  Odd… didn’t understand the point of this.  It is meant to be a chased to the lobster and the gelatin was pleasantly salty.  But no idea why the Sprite was in it.

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Shrimp balls served with a crab meat topping.  Rich…

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Fried soft shell crab with black pepper and salt, garlic, scallions, and chilies.

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The remaining roast duck meat made its way back to the table as a stir fry served on a bed of crunchy fried vermicelli noodles.

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Fried wide rice noodles with lobster head.  Ultimately, the entire lobster that was first served as sashimi is consumed over several courses.

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Dessert number one was a taro paste bar with ginkgo nuts wrapped in pumpkin seeds and fried.

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Dessert number two is fresh young coconut meat and ginkgo nuts served in a light sugar syrup.

Needless to say, this was a pretty fancy – and filling! – meal.  We were really treated wonderfully by Ko’s mother and went home with several containers of leftovers per person.

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Outside the front of the restaurant, which is located just off Soi Taniya, the adult nightlife street that caters to Japanese tourists and expats.

Food in Bangkok: New York Cheesecake

New York is a city that holds a special place in the imagination of many people around the world.  So it is no surprise to see the mystique of New York used to sell everything from condos to makeup here in Bangkok.  The most recent addition to this “Big Appleing” of Bangkok is a small restaurant at the Crystal Design Center: NYCC – New York City Cheesecake.

Located in a rapidly expanding strip mall in the suburban outskirts on the northeast flank of the city, NYCC claims to offer a real taste of New York with not only authentic New York style cheesecakes but also pastrami sandwiches.  Being a lover of pastrami, I had to go out and try this for myself.

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The restaurant is really more of a shack or hut, located between other buildings at the Crystal Design Center.  CDC is a design-oriented strip mall located on Ram Intra Road, an already overcrowded road that extends from Ekkamai Road out to the suburbs.  Despite the overcrowding, the past five years have seen an explosion of businesses and housing this direction.  Perhaps the good news is that with these new shopping centers on the periphery of Bangkok, the traffic on the streets in the core of the city will not get any worse.

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The interior of NYCC looks more like a noodle shop with stools and small tables.  It isn’t much of a surprise then to learn that NYCC has a sister shop behind it that sells – wait for it – noodles.  Framed posters of Broadway shows lines the windows and various New York theme tchotchkes sit for sale on a side shelf.  The friendly staff take the orders and deliver the foods.  On a weekday afternoon around lunchtime, the place was not very busy.

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NYCC’s motto is “cheese will never cease” – I’m not sure what that means.  For some reason, it makes me think of an alternative definition of the word “cheese”.

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After a few minutes longer than I thought it would take, our sandwiches arrived.  I ordered the pastrami and Tawn ordered the chicken club.  The sandwiches are monsters, shooting for the “mile high” measurements for which New York deli sandwiches are know.  Let’s take a closer look at what we really have, though, from the toothpick down:

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The bread was actually pretty good, although it would have been a bit nicer lightly toasted.  It wasn’t a nice dark rye but was slightly more substantive than the wonder that passes for bread all too often here in Bangkok.

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In the middle, which is where most of the bulk is in this sandwich, is a stack of two types of lettuce, a stack of raw onion, and a stack of tomatoes.  The problem here (other than whether or not there should be any vegetables on a pastrami sandwich) is that everything is stacked, so you get a lot of onions in one bite, for example, and no onions in another bite.

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At the bottom is the pastrami.  I’ll give them credit for tasty pastrami, albeit sliced a little thicker than I like.  It was tender and smoky.  There was also not much of it, especially when compared with the bread and vegetables.  As for the sauce, the sandwich was over-sauced – which is not unusual here in Thailand, with brown mustard (nice) and Thousand Island (wrong – this isn’t a Reuben).

How to rate it overall?  Well,  for a sandwich that carried a price tag around 340 baht (about $11.40), it was mighty short on meat and might high on everything else… except a pickle, which would have been a nice touch.  Now, I’m not a New York, just a frequent visitor.  But from what I know of New York pastrami sandwiches, this is what my expectation looked like:

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This is a pastrami sandwich from the Carnegie Deli.  We can debate which deli is the best, but in my mind, this is a good example of what a pastrami sandwich should be.  Lots and lots of pastrami with little or nothing else between the bread.  Now, I understand that beef is expensive here and I’m not opposed to paying a good price for something that approximates a real New York style pastrami sandwich.  But if I’m going to pay that much money, let’s lose the salad, add a little more meat, and put the sauce on the side.

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As for Tawn’s chicken club, it was a similar tower of salad but had a very substantial amount a chicken at the base – probably two breasts’ worth.  The meat was bland and instead of being thinly sliced was more slab-like.  It was about 250 baht and, from Tawn’s perspective, overpriced. 

As for the eponymous cheesecake, a recent dining companion (at another meal) told me she thinks the cheesecakes are flown in from the Cheesecake Factory in the United States.  I don’t think that’s the case, but the potion sizes are enough to make you believe it!

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We ordered a slice of regular cheesecake with strawberry topping, more than ample for two (or four!) to share.  I’ll give them credit for making a pretty passable New York style cheesecake.  The consistency is smooth, solid but not too dense, and nicely flavored.  It had obviously been frozen previously as the center of the slice was still icy – a faux pas when service cheesecake – but it was better than a lot of the overly airy cheesecake I’ve had in Bangkok.

We ended up with a bill of about 850 baht for two sandwiches, one slice of cheesecake, and two bottles of water.  For Bangkok, that’s a pretty pricey meal, especially for a lunch.  It was fun to try and NYCC had some things going for it, but not so many that I’d be easily tempted to make the trek out Ram Intra.  Instead, I’ll just save my pastrami cravings for my new trip back to the real New York.

Return to La Gaetana Phuket

When we were in Phuket a year ago October, our friends Stuart and Piyawat took us to an amazing Italian restaurant called La Gaetana.  What sets it apart from other restaurants is that the owner, Polermo native Gianni, takes such tremendous pride in his business and pleasure in serving his guests.

When Piyawat made the reservations, I don’t know if he mentioned that dinner was for friends who were visiting again, but Gianni greeted me so warmly that I felt like a neighbor who had been away for a year and returned.

Instead of essentially re-writing the entry from the first visit, I’ll just cut and paste key portions of it here along with some new pictures. 

“… The venue was this hole-in-the-wall Italian restaurant called La Gaetana.  And let me tell you, it was without question the best dining experience I have had in Thailand.

That may sound like hyperbole, but Polermo native Gianni and his Thai wife Chonchita run the most charming of restaurants with the most attentive service I’ve ever received in the Land of Smiles.  The restaurant, located in a warmly decorated 80-year old building, seats just 32 so reservations are a must.

The food is great, atmosphere is cute, etc. but what really makes the experience worthwhile is the passion with which Gianni and his staff, many of whom have worked there for years, attend to your needs.  His tableside bottle-opening and decanting is a show in and of itself, and illustrates just how much care is given to each detail of the dining experience.

Here’s a video that shows it all.

This is exactly what I could imagine myself doing in the future.  Running my own small restaurant in some idyllic town, spending my days making my guests happy and ensuring they enjoy excellent food, wine and service.”

And now, pictures from dinner the other night:

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Gianni opens a bottle of champagne, chilling the glasses with ice, as Matt looks on.

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Antipasto platter with meats, vegetables, and cheese.

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Assorted crostini – small toasts with chopped tomatoes or fresh cheese and pesto on top.

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Grilled portobella mushrooms with gorgonzola cheese.

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Lamb ribs, beautifully cooked, with a side of homemade gnocchi in tomato and eggplant sauce.

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For dessert, apple tarte tatin with vanilla ice cream.

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After we left the restaurant, I noticed that the Chinese temple across the street was showing an outdoor movie, with a screen set up in the parking lot and the film being projected from a portable 35mm projector in a tent at the back of the lot.  This is the way it was done in the old days – and to some extent, still is – in the countryside.

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A view from the inside of the temple compound looking towards the screen.  Rather a sparse crowd this evening.

 

Food in Hong Kong: Modern China Restaurant

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In response to my early posts about this recent trip to Hong Kong, some commenters expressed concern that I wasn’t eating at any Chinese restaurants.  Rest assured, I did eat a good amount of Chinese food while there.  One of the best meals was my final dinner, enjoyed at a Shanghainese restaurant called Modern China.

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Located in the Olympian City Mall in West Kowloon, right above the Olympic MTR station, Modern China blends in among all the other glass-fronted restaurant in a mall that, frankly, could be any other mall in Hong Kong.

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The waiting queue is very modern, with numbers posted on an LED monitor along with a map of tables and their status.  On a busy Sunday evening, Big Michael and I only waited ten minutes for a table.

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The interior of the restaurant is clean and spacious, although tables are packed pretty close together.  The wait staff was professional and attentive, although in typical Hong Kong style were not overly friendly.  The menu is accessible, offering lots of pictures and clear English descriptions.

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A small dish of sweet dried shrimp were served as a complimentary appetizer.  Very flavorful, although when I lived here it took a while to get used to eating shrimp with the shell still on.

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On the autumn special menu was an intriguing sounding dish: braised seafood in pumpkin.

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Sure enough, a beautiful orange pumpkin arrived on our table and upon removing the lid, we discovered a medley of fresh seafood in a rich pumpkin broth.  We also scraped the sides of the pumpkin to dislodge some of the cooked, but still firm flesh.  Very tasty.

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Can’t go to a Shanghainese restaurant without some Xiao Long Bao!  Very tasty, too, with delicate wrappers.  Really, though, will I ever like any XLB better than those at Din Tai Fung?  On the menu, these are rather cutely described as “Mouthful Small Steamed Meat Buns”.

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Braised noodles are always a favorite, especially these fried noodles with twice-cooked pork.

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Our final dish were these fried pastries filled with chopped beef and preserved vegetables.  They were kind of like turnovers, with a very flaky crust and a savory filling.

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There was a lot of juice inside and trying to cut them open neatly proved to be a chore.  But this will give you an idea, at least.

Overall, I give Modern China good marks for tasty, reasonably priced Shanghai style food served in a convenient location.  Good enough to be added to my Google Map of Hong Kong.  If you are looking for a break from the Cantonese food while in Hong Kong, head over to Olympian Mall.

 

Food in Hong Kong: Isola Bar and Grill

After the Korean lunch, I took the MTR over to IFC.  IFC is the International Finance Centre, a large multi-use complex built atop the Hong Kong Airport Express station.  There are two office towers, a hotel, and a nice mall in the complex and it could be a model for the development that might happen around Bangkok’s Airport Express terminal at Makkasan station in the future.  While at IFC, I dined at Isola Bar and Grill.

Isola Bar and Grill is a two-story restaurant adjacent to the Lane Crawford department store.  It has a fantastic outdoor dining deck offering sweeping views of the harbour and West Kowloon waterfront and Thursday was a perfect day for sitting out there.  The restaurant was suggested by Angel, a Xangan from Vancouver who comes to Hong Kong frequently on work.

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Since I had just had lunch and he was flying out in a few hours back to Vancouver, neither Angel nor I was in the mood for a full meal so we settled instead for dessert.  Thus, this entry isn’t a fair review of Isola.

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My hazelnut creme brulee with a scoop of vanilla ice cream.  It was okay but I found the hazelnut flavor to be kind of muddy.

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Angel had a chocolate cake that, if I’m not mistaken, had ground nuts in it.  It was the tastier of the two desserts.

The service was passable, the dessert was passable, so not much to say there.  The view was sweeping, though, and the company pleasant, so that made the appointment well worthwhile.

 

Food in Hong Kong: Jin Luo Bao

While in Hong Kong recently for four days, I spent most of my time visiting with friends.  Interestingly, I didn’t revisit many of the restaurants from my last trip there, which was a watershed trip in terms of food quality.  Instead, I tried some new places.  First stop was Jin Luo Bao, a Korean restaurant in Causeway Bay located in the building behind the Sogo department store.

Assorted kim chi, pickled vegetables.  Did you know there is a shortage of Napa cabbage in Korean right now, driving the prices higher than the price of meat?

A stir fried dish with a moderately spicy sauce.  The tubes are made of rice, basically like mochi.  Very tasty and fun to eat.

Bi bim bap – rice, meat, and garnishings in a super heated stone bowl.  Add chili sauce and stir as the heat from the bowl finishes cooking the meat.

I always enjoy Korean food and had a fun time catching up with my university friend Tehlin, who graciously (and unnecessarily) paid for lunch.

More soon.  For a complete listing of my Hong Kong recommendations, visit my Google Map.