Trip to the land of honey part 2

After some political interruptions, let’s return to the second part of my trip to the land of honey – the literal translation of Bangnamphung, the location of the nearby weekend floating market.

P1060879 The floating market isn’t really a “floating” market.  Instead, it is a weekend market built alongside the khlong (canal) that may have at one point years ago had some vendors in boats but which eventually was developed by well-meaning local officials into a destination for local tourists. 

It is still a fun place to visit, but isn’t the quaint local market that you might envision.  Still, there aren’t too many foreigners there.  I did see one other but I pushed him into the water so there wouldn’t be any competition.

Some areas of the market sell crafts and products, others sell fresh fruits and vegetables, but most of the market space is dedicated to prepared foods.  This is because, as any Thai will tell you, there is absolutely nothing more fun to do than eat!  Eat in a group and you’re in an even higher plane of heaven.

Below, Khun Tawn borrows my straw hat as he prepares to chow down.

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Here’s a guide to our culinary explorations.  First, we enjoyed that tasty snack that thrills your tongue, pak pbed.  Literally translated, “duck mouth” or grilled duck beak.  Let’s get a closeup of that beauty:

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Here’s one of several vendors grilling the delicacy, proof that you can eat pretty much every last part of a duck except the quack.

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And did Paul try one?  Despite the pose, I wouldn’t count on it!  Aori, however, thinks they are the best thing in the world, or pretty darn close to it.  They taste smoky and the beak is edible albeit crunchy.  The tongue (still intact) is supposed to be the best part.  As my paternal grandmother used to say, to each his own.

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Moving on to other delights, we have hoy tod or fried mussels.  Normally fried in a batch with scrambled eggs, this vendor did a little play on tradition by frying an individual mussel in a half-moon shaped khanom khrug pan with a little egg to make versions of the original dish.  Tawn didn’t feel like it was an improvement.

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We also had some khao klug gapii, friend rice with shrimp paste served with a variety of condiments including lime, cucumbers, shallots, green beans, chili, scrambled eggs, green mango, dried shirmp, and sweet and sour pork sauce.

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Turning to some more traditional Thai foods, here is som tam, the ubiquitous green papaya salad that is crunchy, sweet, vinegary, salty and spicy all at once.  A fixture of northeastern Thailand, it has been adopted by Bangkokians as a de facto official dish in part because so many people who live in the Big Mango are from the northeast of Thailand.

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Something you can find in nearly every culture, fried chicken wings.  I don’t know what they use to season them, but these were incredible.

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Our little culinary tour included some flavors of Muslim Thai food, predominately from the south of the Kingdom but brought into the local culinary lexicon by the many small pockets of Muslims who live in and around Khrungthep.  Here is gai satay, chicken skewers served with a peanut sauce.  The onions and cucumbers, pickled in rice wine vinegar, provide a clean contrast to the sweet richness of the dipping sauce.

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Below, the satay vendor prepares an endless supply of satay served with toasted white bread.  Note the way the fans are rigged to blow the smoke and smell away from the tables but towards potential customers.

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P1060825 The tables were tightly nested together and this young man behind us almost had to climb over us to get out to buy some ice cream. 

This homemade ice cream is made from fresh young coconuts that are locally grown with the scoops served in pieces of the shell that still have shreds of the coconut flesh attached.

Chatting with his family, they encouraged him to try speaking whatever English he has learned in school, but I couldn’t get so much as a “hello” out of him.

Below: Yes, there is actually something floating at the floating market.  Here a vendor grills khao niyaw ping, literally “grilled sticky rice” wrapped in a banana leaf and filled either with baked taro root or baked banana. 

Actually, the guy doing the grilling is the husband of one of the ladies sitting at the stall onshore and conducting transactions.  How he got stuck in the boat, I don’t know, but at least he was in the shade and there was a little breeze along the water.

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One final food item was kai nokgrata nam siiyuu, grilled quail eggs (they are boiled first otherwise they would take forever to cook on the grill) served with soy sauce.

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After eating our fill and far beyond it, we wandered around the market to see what else was interesting.  We saw these seed pods called teen bet naam, which look like something out of a sci-fi movie.

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Here I am standing on one of the concrete pathways built above the marshy ground.

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The market also included a park area with public karaoke.  Anyone was invited to sing and, judging from Tawn’s reaction below, greater discretion should be used before people go on stage and inflict their voices on others.

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Despite the lush local atmosphere, the latest security systems are installed to help the police keep an eye on all corners of the market.

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Walking back along the khlong to the main road where we would catch motorbikes back to the pier, we saw a group of local children playing in the water and diving from the bridge and the water pipe.  Once I started taking pictures and they saw they had an audience, all sorts of derringdo ensued.

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On the ferry ride back across the Chao Phraya River, I took these shots of two youngsters:

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Lovely helmet, huh?  I can’t imagine what good it would do him on the back of a motorcycle but it is the thought that counts, right?  Whoops!  That was very “naive farang” of me.  I should let Thailand be Thai.

That concludes our trip to the land of honey.  And, I’ll have you know, I did return home with two bottles of unpasteurized local honey to add to my morning oatmeal.

 

Trip to the land of honey part 1

Saturday morning Tawn and I joined Aori and Paul on a trip to the floating market at Bangnamphung (literally, “The place of honey”) in Phra Pradaeng.  It has been the better part of two years since I last wrote about Phra Pradaeng.  It is a near-island created by an excessive bend in the Chao Phraya River, somewhat to the south of the main part of the city.  Unlike all the surrounding areas, Phra Pradaeng has undergone minimal development and is mostly covered with banana and coconut plantations.  A fantastic place to ride a bicycle, it has more in common with the countryside on the outskirts of the city than it does with the industrial area, port, and financial centers that lie just across the river from it.

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We drove down to Aori’s house in Bang Na to pick them up, then continued to a temple at the edge of the river.  Parking at the temple is ostensibly reserved only for people coming to the temple – the signs specifically say there is no parking for the floating market.

So we spent some time at the temple first, feeding the cows and water buffalo, praying to the Buddha statues, and donating some money.

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This is the first temple I’ve seen that have farm animals.  They are there to be donated to needy families in the countryside and you can make a donation and feed them.  It was a regular petting zoo although, as Tawn found out, the cows don’t like you to touch their foreheads, above.

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The sala or pavilion was right next to the river, open on both sides and enjoying a pleasant breeze.  Dozens of adherents were coming and going, making offerings, receiving blessings, and prostrating themselves before the images of the Buddha and several revered monks.  I found it curious that this cat was just lying on the carpet, above, unconcerned about all of the people coming and going around him.

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A large family arrived all at one in two vans to receive a blessing, above.  The monk, in order to be heard, was holding a small microphone – a very modern addition to an ancient ceremony.

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The ferry runs about every twenty minutes and carries a lot of traffic across the river, including a lot of motorbikes which are the primary form of transportation on Phra Pradaeng.  This is a well-organized system with pedestrians first, followed by motorbikes, then any bicycles.  A recording plays just as the boat is landing with a little patriotic music and then announcements about the embarking and disembarking procedures.  It sounded more like an amusement park than anything else.

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Once we were seated onboard, a stream of about two dozen motorbikes followed us on, above, directed into the correct place by the deck hand, below.

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Even on the hottest days, there is a nice breeze on the river.  As we worked our way across and slightly up the river, we had a good view of part of the Khlong Toei port area, where all of the oil products are off-loaded.  There are numerous industrial plants and factories in this area.  I’m curious what will happen in the next few years as the Skytrain extends into this end of town and more and more condominiums and residential developments drive up the land values.  Will the factories move and will the area gradually be rezoned?

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Thankfully, this polluting smokestack was only running for a short while.  When we returned later in the afternoon, the sky was much cleaner.

Stay tuned for part 2 tomorrow…

 

 

Just how “farang” shouldn’t I be?

P1060702 When I write these entries, I also post a link to them on my Facebook account because I have many friends who don’t regularly read my blog.  (As opposed to the many regular readers of this blog who have become friends.)  On Saturday I wrote an entry about this little boy, pictured right, playing on a sidewalk while his father operated very loud construction equipment nearby. 

I wrote that two of the questions crossing my mind were why the boy was sitting there and why nobody had any hearing protection on.  I didn’t rail against the injustices of the situation, demand that Thailand change, or harumph about how superior things are in the west.  I simply wrote that those were questions that crossed my mind.

You can perhaps imagine my surprise when I received the following comment on Facebook from a former Thai language classmate of mine, a European man with whom I studied around December 2005:

“How long have you been living in Thailand?  I am amazed that you are still thinking like a novice farang.  Let Thailand be Thai.”

I’m not sure what qualifies my thinking as that of “a novice farang” nor what I did to suggest that Thailand shouldn’t be Thai.  Was I being culturally insensitive to suggest that the loud noise could cause hearing damage to the young child and his father?  Was I being too “western” to wonder why they didn’t have any hearing protection on?

It seems to me that concern over the wellbeing of people, especially children, is a pretty universal value and not one that I should grow out of the longer I live here.  Maybe there is another stage of thinking after novice farang: “jaded expat”.  The jaded expat sees the lives and wellbeing of the locals as disposable commodities since he won’t be living here in five, ten, twenty years to deal with the long-term effects.

What are your thoughts?

 

Truck Envy

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Walking down Soi Lang Suan after brunch, I snapped this photo of a young boy – probably not even three years old – squatting on the sidewalk playing with his toy truck.  As near as I could figure out, he’s waiting for his father, who is in the cab of the Caterpillar.

What first crossed my mind was that he seemed to be looking on with a certain sense of jealousy, envious of the much larger truck his father had to play with.

Questions that also crossed my mind included, “Why is this young boy just sitting there on the sidewalk while the construction equipment was producing a deafening racket (I had walked with my hands covering my ears until I snapped this photo) as it tore up the street?”  Also, “Why is nobody, including the father, wearing any hearing protection?”

 

Sitting here at my computer, even though it is early afternoon the sunny sky has turned as dark as dusk.  The wind picks up from dead stillness, rushing through the bedroom balcony and slamming shut the bathroom door before leaving through the living room windows in a furry. 

After that brief outburst the stillness returns and the air feels as if it is solidifying.  If I wave my hand through it quickly enough, I imagine that water will condense in its wake.

Then the first few drops fall on the open windows, splatting against the panes with ripe fullness before the intensity can no longer be held back and the storm lets go its torrents.

 

Spontaneous Singing in the Boarding Area

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Above: Not quite 5:00 in the afternoon and yet the sky is dark as a storm consumes the central part of downtown Khrungthep.  Picture taken from the Thong Lo station looking northwest.

P1060633 According to the guides, charts and historical patterns, we’re a little bit ahead of the normal rainfall for May, which as I understand it, marks the first of the two monsoons (the other is in September, the wettest month by far).  For the better part of the past two weeks we’ve had daily rains.  Not just the late afternoon thunderstorms mind you, but drizzly, temperamental rains that come at all hours of the day and night.  Our power cut out twice yesterday evening and once again while we slept last night, waking us up a while later when the unconditioned room became too warm because the air conditioner had been reset by the power interruption.

The rains are okay by me as they keep the temperatures cooler, especially with the dark clouds blocking out the tropical sun.  Sure, you have to plan a bit so you don’t get caught on the back of a motorsai without protection, as Tawn did on his way home this evening.  Actually, he had protection, but he sacrificed his sweater to wrap his bag.

 

I encountered this funny advertisement on, of all things, airliners.net.  It is for a British travel website called lastminute.com and as far as I can tell from a bit of research, the advertisement is exactly what it appears to be: a Candid Camera-type moment in which a group of professional actors conduct an ad hoc musical performance in the waiting area at London’s Stansted Airport to the surprise and amusement of those in the lounge.

From my perspective, this is pretty much the story of my life: breaking out in spontaneous song to drive my personal story line forward.  Does that happen to you?

 

A pilot and a flight attendant get married

Moving from the subject of same-sex marriage to the subject of different-sex ones, Saturday we went to the wedding of Tawn’s school friend Bua and her fiancee Pom.  Their engagement party was thirteen months ago and it is hard to believe a year has passed so quickly.

Bua is a Qantas flight attendant and Pom is a first officer with Orient Thai Airlines (a mostly domestic Thai carrier) and so their engagement party and subsequent wedding was airline themed.  Here’s the wedding invitation:

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We arrived at the Hyatt Grand Erawan with Pim and her husband Arm to find the area just outside the ballroom converted into a check-in lobby, completed with two “Love Airways” podia, below.

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We sat at a table of Tawn’s school friends, all of whom have had babies recently.  Unfortunately, with 600 guests the bride and groom were never together long enough for me to get a picture of them!  We had plenty of time to visit with our friends, though, and to play with the babies.  Actually, there were a lot of guests with young children.  Bua had arranged for a play area outside the ballroom complete with small jungle gyms, toys, and a clown armed with incredible balloon animal making skills.  He made a good Mickey Mouse, a passable Ultraman, and an amazing Little Mermaid.

Below left, Tawn and a shocked Nam-ing, Jaa and Teuk’s 6-month old.  Below right, me with Jae Jae, Saa and Job’s 3-month old, in his cute little jeans.  Unfortunately, Pim and Arm’s nearly 3-year old daughter, Tara, decided she would rather go visit her grandparents this evening.  Tawn even tried to convince her by telling her that her Uncle Chris would be there, but that didn’t seem to be much of a selling point.

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The food was a Chinese banquet with an especially tasty Peking duck.  The skin was super-crispy and the plum sauce was unusually not sickeningly sweet. 

 

Monk Sponsorship

Tawn’s employer is celebrating the tenth anniversary of their office here in Thailand.  As part of their anniversary celebrations, Saturday morning they held a tam boon ceremony, literally “make merit.”  Tam boon ceremonies are a large part of what Buddhist monks do.  You call up the temple, arrange for a certain number of monks to come over on a certain morning and then they do the ceremony.  In return, you make a donation to the temple.

Tawn was in charge of arranging for the monks.  Saturday morning we arrived at the temple next to Ekkamai BTS station,  Wat Tat Tong at nine and met the monks.  The senior monk was a kindly man in his fifties, with a friendly disposition and eager to ask me questions to see how much Thai I know.  As we were waiting for the van, he grabbed my arm and, repeating “come take a picture, come take a picture”, led me to one of the main chanting halls to show me one of the Buddha images.  He gave me a lecture about how the main image was from Sukkothai and was several hundred years old, made around the same time as an image at another temple down near the Hualomphong train station.  It was difficult to keep up.  So I took some pictures (below), agreed that it was a very pretty image, and then we went back to the van.  You’ll notice that this wat is decidedly more modest than the Grand Palace and other Thai temples you’re used to seeing pictures of.

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The monks each had a prominent characteristic, reminding me a little (and I mean this in a respectful way) of the Seven Dwarves.  The head monk was like Doc since he was in charge.  A second monk was a jolly, large fellow who upon learning I was from San Francisco was trying to remember the lyrics to a song about the city and then started singing, “I Left My Heart in San Francisco”.  I complimented his memory and asked him whether he liked to sing karaoke, until he explained that “no singing” is one of the 256 precepts that Buddhist monks have to obey.

Whoops!  Faux pas.

As we sat in the van waiting for a third monk who wasn’t answering his phone, he came hustling over to the van still wiping his wet head with his robe.  “Sorry, I just got out of the shower.” he explained.  I’m not sure which dwarf he would be.  Tardy?

The other two monks were junior, “Summer Monks” on break from school.  They don’t get nicknames because other than one’s relatively small ears, they didn’t say or do anything that particularly distinguished them.

We headed to Tawn’s office where about the staff was waiting having already set up the mats, chairs and other necessities for the ceremony.  The monks were seated and then started about twenty minutes of chanting in Pali, the Sanskrit-derived language that is the Buddhist Latin.  (Or maybe Latin is the Catholic Pali?)

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Afterwards the monks were fed.  They have to take their last meal of day by “mid-day” which is usually described as somewhere between 11:00 am and noon.  While it is usual for the monks to be served seated on the floor, in this case they were set up at the conference room, an image that I thought was very funny, below.  Maybe I’ve just seen so many corporate meetings where all the participants were dressed in the same charcoal gray suits that it tickled me to see a conference table filled with people tressed truly identically. 

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Here’s a short video of the first two steps of the ceremony:

While the monks were eating, several of the employees went downstairs to the back of the building and presented offerings at the spirit house.  This isn’t part of the Buddhist ritual as the spirit houses comes from more of an animist / Brahmanist / Hindu background.  The spirit house literally houses the spirit (spirits?) of the land that were displaced when the building was constructed.  Offerings included little portions of food and beverage as well as a single stick of incense per person, below

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P1060591 Returning upstairs, the monks were still eating so Tawn and his colleagues messed around and took photos of each other, being playful as Thais do so well, above

Finally, when the monks were finished, we did the second part of the ceremony which is the blessing with the holy water.  There was further chanting and then the head monk used a bamboo whisk to splash water on everyone.  Seeing me near the back of the group, he flicked a very experienced wrist and a large amount of water sailed over the heads of Tawn and his colleagues and gave me quite a splash, right.

With the air conditioning on high, I nearly caught a cold afterwards!

Something to notice, if you will: in the picture below the monks are chanting behind ceremonial prayer fans.  The purple one on the left used by the head monk was presented to him by the Crown Princess.  The one to the right, used by the happy monk, is interesting because I wasn’t aware that corporate sponsorship was a common practice in Buddhism.  “This merit-making ceremony brought to you by Accenture.  Accenture: High performance.  Delivered.”  Kind of like public radio, I guess.

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The head monk then proceeded around the office, splashing holy water in each room, along the hallways, on the equipment (taking care of the computers and the photocopiers), driving away the bad fortune in much the same way that our exterminator sprayed along windows, doors, and the floor to drive away pests.

Chalk up another interesting cultural experience.

 

Learning Thai Online

When you live in a country for any length of time, I feel you are obligated both by good manners and cultural consideration to try and learn some of that country’s language.  Even if you are just going to visit another country for more than two or three days, I still feel you are again obligated by good manners and cultural consideration to try and learn at least a few key phrases.  “Please”, “Thank you”, “Excuse me”, “Hello” and “Goodbye” are good phrases with which to start.

My experience traveling is that I’ve enjoyed the places I’ve visited much more and received much friendlier, warmer interactions with locals when I’ve made some attempt to speak their language.  This was true in Italy, France and even Australia.  It has also held true when I lived in Hong Kong as well as now that I’m in Thailand.

Learning Thai can be intimidating for foreigners (especially those from Western countries), both because of the non-Roman script as well as the tonal nature of the language.  There are no shortage of tools to help people learn Thai.  If you are in the country, you have many schools as well as private tutors available.  These can be pretty effective resources, as I’ve shown. 

its4thai_logo Outside of Thailand, there are books, CDs, and several websites to use.  These are less effective, as nearly everyone who has used them can testify.  Over the past year, my friend Stuart has been designing a website that takes a very different and, in my opinion, much more effective approach to teaching Thai.  The website, ITS4Thai.com, has been running for a few weeks now and is getting a lot of traffic from around the world.

Not to make this sound like an advertisement, but there are a few things that I think are really effective about the website:

ITS Screen 1 Its highly interactive website uses a variety of games and activities to engage the learner.  As a professional trainer, I know that different people learn in different ways.  Some are visual learners, some are aural learners, some are tactile learners, etc.  ITS4Thai incorporates all those learning styles into the lessons.  Plus each lesson is just a “bite” of learning – only about ten vocabulary words and three or four sentence patterns.  By the time you’ve done the various activities, you’ll find it easy to remember because it is an easy to digest portion.

The format provides a lot of flexibility and real-life applicability.  You can conduct the lessons in whatever order makes the most sense for you.  It is easy to track your progress and choose the direction you want to take.  If you are going to be here on holiday, then choose the lessons that are most applicable to your interests.  If you are going to be here on business, make the appropriate choices.  If you’re going to live here… well, you get the idea.  Unlike a lot of other learning resources, that are laid out in a linear A-Z fashion, ITS4Thai gives you much more flexibility.

Finally, ITS4Thai is inexpensive.  All packages are less than US$20, so you can get a lot of learning without putting down a lot of money.  I truly wish that this option had been available to me in the year and a half before I moved to Thailand.  Had it been, I would have arrived much better prepared.

P1060446 Tawn and I have both been helping out Stuart.  Tawn has been providing PR, doing his first freelance job, and I’ve been helping with the editing of more than 100 additional lesson which will build upon the 60 that are currently on the site.  Needless to say, Tawn and I are both closely involved and enthusiastic about the site.

The results of the PR efforts have started to pay off.  After crafting a press release in both Thai and English, Tawn pitched a story to the education reporter for the English language newspaper Daily Express.  This past Friday, Stuart, Tawn and the reporter met at Starbucks Ari, above.  I tagged along and wound up being used as a model in one of the photo shoots.  Thankfully, those pictures were not used in the story!

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Yesterday morning the story ran on page 3, a half page above the fold.  This was very good coverage and a success for Tawn’s freelancing efforts.  It was also, of course, a success for Stuart and ITS4Thai.  In addition to other press coverage and additional PR events, I’m hoping that many people will be drawn to this resource.

And as for you, dear reader, if you are considering a trip to Thailand, I hope you’ll take a look at ITS4Thai.com.  Stuart is offering ten free lessons at the site, so you can visit it, learn a little Thai, and evaluate the effectiveness of the website for yourself without having to commit any money.

 

PR and DYI

P1060004 A relaxing start to the weekend at Chez Chris and Tawn.  Well, not exactly, and I’ll talk more about it in a moment.  But in the meantime, efforts are being made to ensure that Tawn is well pampered, right.

You may recall that about two months ago we had a photo shoot for Elle Decoration magazine’s Thailand edition.  There was a full day shoot in which the house was turned upside down while I was banished to the balcony and eventually just left home for the day.

As much as I wasn’t keen about doing the photo shoot, Tawn felt it was important both to build his image (he does PR and one day wants to work freelance so his image is important) and our designer is always looking for some free publicity.

P1060273 So no sooner had the shoot finished and the story had been confirmed with Elle – the spin on the story is “A Baker’s Home” – then Tawn accepted another request for a photo shoot, this one from Daybeds. 

The story this time is “A Peaceful Sanctuary” and instead of doing small, focused shots as Elle did, this time the entire house was staged beforehand and then the photographer just came through and shot rooms.  This necessitated a whole truckload of different decorations to be brought in from Ble’s store and a whole balcony worth of decorations to be moved out to the balcony, left.

Needless to say, I didn’t stay at home for this photo shoot, either.  Promises have been made that there will be no more photo shoots as it is really, really far outside my comfort zone.

 

So what did we do this Saturday?  We finally tackled a home improvement project.  My father, the original do-it-yourselfer whose favorite place when we were growing up in Sunnyvale, CA was Orchard Supply Hardware, is hopefully proud to see how much of a chip off the old block I have become.  Who would have imagined that I possess the tinkerer’s gene?

The problem to be overcome was the drain for our washing machine.  For whatever reason (narrow ceilings?) the drain does not have a u-trap.  Since the hose from the washer does not fit snuggly in the drain, there has been plenty of room for unpleasant odors to leak out into the bathroom, made worse when you turn the ventilation fan on, thinking incorrectly that you’ll be drawing fresh air into the bathroom.

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The challenge was how to seal the opening to the drain while still being able to use it for the washing machine.  After a few trips to the hardware store and much heavy lifting to remove the 40 kg stacked dryer and the 80 kg washer, we settled on a solution:

P1060489 A pipe adapter, which steps down one size pipe to another, fit perfectly into the hole and created a narrower opening through which the washer hose could be placed.  I used acrylic putty around the pipe adapter, sealing it and ensuring it would stay in place.  After about an hour of letting the putty dry, I reinserted the hose and then used the old MacGyver standby, duct tape, to create an airtight seal around it.

Finally, some shoving and heavy lifting saw the machines put back into place and we now have a bathroom free from the smell of mysterious drain odors.  We’ve even run a couple of loads of laundry just to make sure the drain wouldn’t back up.  So far, so good…

That task finished, we headed out for some lunch at our local pie shop (right) and then on to shopping errands to prepare for our breakfast gathering Sunday morning.  It is time to introduce my Khrungthep friends to my homemade buttermilk biscuits.

Looking at my notes, I see that there are many other things I need to write about including some catch up from days past.  Soon, soon, soon.