A continuation of the tale of Valentine’s Day 2009.

After brunch, the lot of us headed up to Muangthai Ratchadalai Theatre on Ratchadapisek Road to watch “Chicago”.  I mean, after that huge front-page “article” in The Nation, how could I not? 

In all seriousness, though, I actually purchased tickets months ago, long before any newspapers put their integrity for sale.

The show was a lot of fun.  Chicago is, in my opinion, a great example of the American musical genre.  The staging is simple and there is a good balance of choreography and song.  And it is quite sexy.  The audience, mostly Thai, ate it up.

On the way home we stopped at the market to buy some ingredients for dinner.  Instead of fighting the crowds at a restaurant (and since we had already eaten out once today), we opted to cook at home.  Below, Tawn dresses up for dinner.

The centerpiece of the meal was a very nice bottle of Pommery Champagne gifted to us by Boon, a visiting Chicagoan whom we met last November.  Here’s a short video we shot to thank him.

The menu was simple: mixed field greens with Italian sausage (sautéed in some leftover duck fat from last week’s duck breast dinner), Jacques Pépin’s mother’s recipe for easy cheese soufflé, a baguette with truffle oil and balsamic vinegar, and chocolate soufflé with raspberry coulis.

This soufflé recipe is great.  It is from his very interesting book The Apprentice, in which he shares the stories and recipes tracing his path from childhood to career.  He explains that when his mother married his father at age seventeen, she did not know how to cook, except for a few simple dishes.  Pépin’s father liked cheese soufflé, which she had never cooked before.  A friend had told her that it consisted of a béchamel sauce, grated cheese and eggs.  So easy!

No one ever told her that the eggs should be separated – the yolks added to the base and the whites whipped and folded in.  As he writes, “Ignorance is bliss, and in this case it was indeed: the soufflé rose to a golden height and became a family favorite.”

It really is an easy recipe and if you’ve been hesitant to try a soufflé, this would be the one to start with.  The ingredients are simple: 6 tablespoons of butter and 6 tablespoons of flour.  Melt the butter in a saucepan, whisk in the flour, and brown for ten or fifteen seconds.

To that, add 2 cups of cold whole milk, whisking constantly at a medium-high heat until it thickens, about five minutes.  What results is a basic white sauce (same thing you use for making macaroni and cheese). 

Season with 1 teaspoon salt, 1/2 teaspoon fresh ground pepper, and 1/4 teaspoon nutmeg.  If you want, make it interesting and add a dash of cayenne pepper.  Set it aside to cool for about ten minutes, stirring every so often so it doesn’t form a skin.

Meanwhile, beat together six extra-large eggs in a bowl.  Grate about 6 ounces of swiss, ementhal and gruyere cheese.  For interest I substituted about 2 ounces of soft chevre (goat’s cheese).  You can also add a few tablespoons of chopped chives or spring onions, if you like.  Another interesting addition would be some crumbled, crispy bacon.

Combine it well and then put it in a gratin or soufflé dish and then bake it in a 400° F oven for 30 to 40 minutes until the souffle is fluffy and browned.  That’s it.

The nice thing about this soufflé is that you can prepare it in advance and wait to cook it without any difficulty.  It is a little denser than the average soufflé (since the egg whites weren’t whipped) but it is still super-easy and really tasty.

What goes well with a soufflé?  Salad.  We did mixed greens with a Japanese-style soy sauce dressing, topped with some Italian sausages.

Regular readers will recognize that I really like salads with some meat on top.  Truly, it can be a meal unto itself.  Add a few pine nuts for texture and you’re set.  And, as you can see below, we were.

While we ate and drank, I put two chocolate soufflés into the oven from the freezer, remainders from last week when Brian and Geng were over.  Cook’s Illustrated Best Make-Ahead Recipes cookbook?  Love it!  Everyone should keep a few soufflés in the freezer.

I hope your Valentine’s Day was every bit as special as ours.

Friday night we had Brian and Geng over for dinner, an intimate dinner for four that lasted until about 12:30 in the morning.  As mentioned before, I think that 4-6 people is the right size for meals at our place, that way everyone can fit around the same table and my kitchen is not overtaxed.

Above, Tawn, Brian and Geng toasting in the new lunar year.

I also continue to improve my skills at planning meals that can be prepared largely in advance and aren’t overly complicated to prepare.  The menu, which I assure you sounds much fancier that it was, was as follows:

Taiwanese pumpkin and ginger soup

Winter greens with goat cheese and raspberry vinaigrette

Maple syrup glazed magret du canard (duck breast) with cherry sauce

Pan-fried sundried tomato polenta wedges

Roasted cherry tomato and pepper compote

Individual chocolate souffles

Brian and Geng arrived shortly before eight, one of the drawbacks of starting dinner after work.  They brought a huge basket of fruit for Chinese New Year and also two bottles of very nice wine.  We worked our way through the first one over cheese, crackers and some salami (from SF) and olives.

After about an hour we decided to actually start eating the food, lest we fill up on cheese and crackers.

The soup started out with the butternut squash and ginger soup recipe I like.  It has coconut milk and curry powder in it, and I add some tumeric and bay leaf as well.

Ran into some difficulty as the market had no butternut squash in stock – remind me again why I bother to go to the market at Emporium? – so I settled for some Taiwanese pumpkin.  Also, I followed the recipe more closely this time and used water instead of chicken stock.  In my opinion, while the soup was good, it tasted a little flat and watery.  The missing ingredient was the chicken stock.

Left to right: slicing the pumpkin; sautee the aromatics while the pumpkin bakes; pumpkin flesh and the secret ingredient Aroy-D coconut milk; the soup before blending.  Below: the soup, served up after an overnight rest to let the flavors mingle, garnished with a dollop of sour cream and a grating of fresh nutmeg.

All in all, still a pretty tasty and satisfying soup.

For the salad, which was mixed greens including escarole and endive, I wanted to do a raspberry vinaigrette.  I was a bit shocked that when you use real raspberries to make a vinaigrette, you get an extremely vivid and thick dressing, below.

The sundried tomato polenta was another make in advance item.  I prepared it on Thursday evening and then let it set in a cake pan overnight.  On Friday I sliced and pan fried it, reheating it in the oven before dinner.  Nice and crispy, especially with a little melted mozzarella cheese on top.

My earlier attempt with duck this week was a trial run for Friday’s dinner.  I learned some lessons and Curry’s W provided a few suggestions.  Among other things, I air-dried the duck breasts in the refrigerator for 24 hours before cooking them.  Also, I used only the lightest film of olive oil before cooking and spooned off the duck fat as it collected in the pan.  This way the breasts came out with a nice exterior and a lot of the fat rendered.  I also added just a little bit of Chinese five-spice, salt and pepper for seasoning.  After pan-frying I drizzled some maple syrup on top and placed the pan in the oven for a few more minutes.

That’s actually when I managed to burn my left palm.  After removing the pan from the oven and taking the breasts out, I grabbed the handle with my bare hand, completely forgetting that I had just taken the pan out of the oven.  Thankfully it wasn’t too hot and I was able to put my hand under cool water and ice it, so by this morning the swelling was down and there isn’t much pain.  Clearly, I need to pay more attention when I’m in the kitchen.

To accompany the polenta and duck I roasted cherry tomatoes and bell peppers in the onion with olive oil and rosemary.  That makes a very nice compote and intensifies the flavors.

I was able to prepare all these components in advance and keep them covered n a low oven, so very little last minute fussing was necessary.  Below, the final plating of the duck.  I kept empty space on the plate for salad, forgetting that there were salad plates on the table already, leaving this plate looking a little lonely.

I have to say, the duck turned out much nicer than earlier this week.  Moist, not too fatty, beautifully pink but fully cooked.  I might not give up on duck quite yet.

Dinner conversation was really great and we had a fun time.  For dessert, I baked some souffles.  Cooks Illustrated has a recipe (and I think you can do this with any of the souffle recipes) where you fill the ramekins then freeze them.  They can then go straight from the freezer to the oven and puff up beautifully.

The tops of these souffles were a little dark by the time the interiors finished; maybe the heat was a bit high.  I have to remember that with a convection oven, you need to turn down the temperature a few degrees.

Still, they were very tasty and I think a souffle never fails to impress!

The coolest of the cold season has already past, but we are still enjoying what is, compared to the rest of the year, very pleasant weather.  Of course, wintry weather leads to the craving of hearty foods: soups, stews, braises and baked goods.

Over the past few weeks, I’ve pulled out the Dutch oven several times, filled with a desire to cook.

On the menu last week was a roasted sweet potato soup.  I’ve always been a bit confused at the distinction between “yams” and “sweet potatoes” in the US.  The confusion is more pronounced here in Thailand as there seem to be three distinct varieties all sold under the single lable of “sweet potato”: a purple skinned variety with bright orange flesh (what I called a “yam” in the US), then two pale yellow flesh varieties, one with purple skin and another with a white skin.

Settling for the purple skin and pale yellow flesh, I rasted the potatoes directly on the oven rack for ninety minutes, until the flesh was soft and sweet.  Sadly, it was also very dried out and fibrous, leading me to wonder whether these were the slim pickings of last season’s crop.

At the same time, I prepared a simple chicken stock: celery, onions, carrots and chicken wings simmered for an hour. 

After straining the vegetables and wings, I peeled and chopped the sweet potatoes, adding them to the stock, pureeing with the immersion blender and then letting the soup simmer for another hour.

The mixture was enhanced with some salt, pepper, bay leaf, tumeric and cumin, lending a subtle but pleasant South Asian flavor.  As is the case with almost all soups, the flavor was much enhanced after a day spent resting in the refrigerator.  The ingredients just needed a chance to meld together and exchange flavors.

I served the soup garnished with homemade croutons a shaving of Parmesan cheese (although a dollop of plain yogurt would have been nice, too) accompanied with a simple salad of mixed organic greens and roasted Italian sausage.

The cooking adventures continued this week as I’ve long wanted to try a recipe for no-knead bread that appeared in the New York Times.  I’ve heard of this from several sources, the idea that what makes for a really good bread isn’t so much the kneading as it is the amount of time the dough is allowed to rise.

The premise of the recipe is that you make a very wet starter dough, cover it and let it rise in a cool spot for about 18 hours.  The challenge here is that we don’t have any very cool spot, although we did have relatively cool weather over the weekend. 

To keep the dough from rising too fast, I actually brought the bowl into the bedroom where the air conditioner was running overnight.  Tawn was a little concerned that I might let it sleep on the bed, too.

The following afternoon, I encountered difficulty following the instructions: using as little flour as possible, work the dough into a ball and then set on a floured towel and let rise again for two hours. 

The dough was so wet and sticky that it was like sticking my hands in a vat of paste.  I ended up using more than one and a half additional cups of flour (on top of the three cups already in the recipe) and doing some kneading to incorporate the flour into the dough, before it was dry enough for me to handle without all of it sticking to me.

So much for no-knead dough…

About a half-hour before the dought was finished rising, you place a Dutch oven on the lowest rack of your oven and pre-heat it to the highest possible temperature – about 500 F / 250 C.  Then, being very careful because the Dutch oven is really, really hot, you remove it from the oven and then place the dough into it without much concern for shape or appearance.

You then put the lid back on and return it to the oven, baking covered for 30 minutes at the highest temperature.  Then you remove the lid and continue baking at a slightly lower temperature for another 15-30 minutes until finished.

When it came out of the oven, my bread had risen but not as much as I expected.  It was also very covered with flour, which gave it a rustic look but literally needed to be brushed off later. 

Removing the bread from the Dutch oven was a bit of a trick, resulting in a lot of toasted flour being scattered in the kitchen and nearly singeing my hand.

As the bread cooled on the rack, you could hear it pop and crack as small fissures in the crust expanded.  I actually tried to record the sound with my digital voice recorder but the microphone wasn’t sensitive enough to capture it.  Sorry!

The end result was actually pretty good.  The texture was closer to those large loaves of rustic sourdough or Italian pugliese than I’ve been able to make before.  The flavor was addictive, especially with some extra virgin olive oil and balsamic vinegar!  Still, there’s some work to do to improve upon the recipe.  I need the dough to be dry enough to handle, or else the whole “shape into a ball” portion of the recipe just won’t work.

Also, I’d like to try a smaller circumfrence for the loaf.  Maybe if I put a ceramic souffle dish inside the Dutch oven?  I’ll keep experimenting.  If you want to come over for some bread, let me know.

The third wintry food was braised red cabbage and pan-fried duck breasts.  This is a specialty I’ve enjoyed at many restaurants, most recently at Minibar Royale on Sukhumvit Soi 23.  Red cabbage is so healthy for you and when braised slowly, it becomes so sweet and plesant to eat.

Playing around with a melange of several recipes, I made mine a bit heavy on the carrots and onions, as both of those are nice when braised, too.  The premise is that after sauteeing the ingredients for about ten minutes, you add spices and equal parts of red wine and stock (homemade veggie stock, in this case), cover the Dutch oven and put it in the oven for about three hours, stirring every so often.

That’s all good, but I discovered that my Dutch oven doesn’t have quite as tight-fitting a lid as it could, so the liquid absorbed/evaporated and a half-hour into the oven, the vegetables were threatening to scorch.  I added more liquid and then placed a sheet of aluminum foil under the lid to better seal it.  That worked pretty well, but I still had to add cooking liquid a few times.

Along the way, I seasoned and fried a pair of duck breasts.  This is the first time I’ve cooked with duck at home, so I wasn’t entirely sure of how best to prepare them.  Pan frying worked okay, although I didn’t get as much of a sear on the exterior as I wanted.

Afterwards, I added the duck breasts to the cabbage mixture for some exchange of flavor.  This had mixed results.  The duck tasted okay, although a bit under-seasoned, and was a little tough. 

Maybe placing with the cabbage wasn’t such a good idea and it should have just been pan fried and put on top?  I’m open to suggestions if you have any.  (Maybe I should just stick to a single recipe and improvise a little less, especially my first time out?)

To accompany the meal, I prepared some polenta, chilled it in a tray then sliced and baked it.  It could have used a little longer baking to develop a crispier exterior – maybe pan fry first – but topped with some sundried tomatoes and melted mozzarella it was pretty tasty.

Above, the finished product: sliced duck breast served with braised red cabbage and baked polenta with sundried tomatoes and cheese.

Whew!  That’s a lot of cooking.  What to prepare next?