Temps Hit Nine-Year Low

P1130505 As much as you folks in the further reaches of the Northern hemisphere may scoff at it, Thailand has been in the grip of a high pressure trough which has dropped down from China, bringing with it the chilly Siberian air. 

Temperatures Sunday night hit an nine-year low in Khrungthep: 15 C / 59 F.  The last time we were colder was on Christmas Day 1999: 13.2 C / 56 F while the coldest I could find on record was January 12, 1955 at 10 C / 50 F.

“Oh, that’s nothing!” scoffed one of Tawn’s former colleagues, a British expat still living in our tropical paradise.  “Thais don’t know what cold weather really is!”

Put it into perspective, though.  Our average low temperature in December and January is 21 C / 70 F.  So we’re significantly cooler than the norms and much cooler than I’ve experienced since I moved here in October 2005.  People aren’t used to this and even I closed the windows today for fear I would catch a chill from the cross-ventilation. 

Tawn even reported that one rider on the SkyTrain was wearing earmuffs, although that may be just because the air con is often quite cool on the train.  We would see this at the cinemas, too, but then the digital sound (which is cranked up to 10, by the way) would be muffled.

Thailand In Loei province, in the more mountainous north, the overnight low was 2 C / 36 F.  Provincial governors have been coordinating the emergency distribution of blankets.

And last night a monk in his 70s died from exposure in Ayutthaya, about ninety minutes by car north of Khrungthep.  He had only a knit cap and a jacket to add warmth to his robes, and was discovered in his cell by other monks when he failed to show up for the early morning alms collection rounds.

Speaking of knit caps and jackets, Tawn has dug deep into his closet and is enjoying this opportunity to layer and dress in a more wintry fashion.  Above, a wool vest purchased at Macy’s while in the US.  Below, an ascot and sportscoat keeps Tawn warm while enjoying his morning oatmeal on our balcony.

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Oatmeal isn’t the only cozy food we’re eating.  Last night I heated up the Dutch oven and cooked some split pea soup.  I’m perusing other hearty recipes that will help us get past this cold front until the warmer days of the hot season return.  Tis the season for braising!

 

Lea Loses Her Glass Slipper

Vacation starts tomorrow.  It is nearly 9 pm and I haven’t yet started packing.  “Why not?” asked Tawn when he called from work two hours ago.  Well, there’s been a lot to do.  I already know what I’m going to bring so I don’t feel like I need to pack before getting done some other priorities, like work.

Besides, our flight tomorrow isn’t until 5 pm so I have plenty of time.  Right?

Cinderella Last night we attended the opening night of Rodger and Hammerstein’s Cinderella starring Lea Salonga.  This is the stage version of the 1957 television special that R&H wrote specifically for Julie Andrews.  There are a couple of numbers that you can tell were written for her.

Befitting an opening night, the Muangthai Ratchadalai Theatre was packed with celebrities and members of high society.  The lobby had no shortage of TV cameras and paparazzi interviewing people and taking their pictures as they arrived in their fabulous gowns, etc.  Strangely, they did not stop me and Tawn.  Hmmm…

Compared with some of the other R&H musicals (think “South Pacific”, “The Sound of Music”, “Oklahoma” and “The King and I” – but if you’re in Thailand where the last show is banned, don’t think of it), Cinderella doesn’t deliver too many catchy tunes.  “In My Own Little Corner” and “A Lovely Night” are probably the only two I could hum right now.

Despite horrid over-amplification (the technical aspects of stagecraft are still a bit crude here), Salonga’s voice was beautiful.  She really is an amazing singer and able to deliver so much to a character.  If you haven’t seen her, get on over to Singapore where the show will run from January 2-22.

P1120697 Interesting spirit house, right.  The Ratchadalai Theatre is part of the Esplanade “Arte-tainment” complex on Ratchadapisek Road. 

Out back there are several night clubs.  The spirit house for these night clubs is a bit unusual: the statue is the form of a dancer.  In front are the words for the Hare Krishna chant, in both Thai and English:

Hare Krishna, Hare Krishna,

Krishna Krishna, Hare Hare

Hare Rama, Hare Rama

Rama Rama, Hare Hare

I’m thinking that maybe I should do a coffee table book of the interesting spirit houses in Thailand.  What do you think?

 

P1120694 I work from home.  This can be nice except when there’s construction work going on. 

Currently, four units in the complex are under renovation including the one directly below us.  I have some audio postcards I’m going to share with you one of these days so you can hear my pain.

But this week I got to enjoy a new distraction.  The planters next to the swimming pool shower were emptied, cleaned, and sealed as there has been a leak into the car park below.  So for two days while the layers of sealant were applied, I was catching these whiffs of incredibly toxic smelling industrial adhesive.

I’m not sure whether I suffered any brain damage or not, but I started feeling really good…

 

Finally, just in case you didn’t believe my previous post about Christmas being celebrated here in the Big Mango, here’s what’s displayed outside Ploenchit Center.

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Yes, it is a giant Starbucks coffee cup.  The triple-venti.  Actually, it is a book collection point as part of a charity drive they are doing.  Pretty nifty idea, although I’m curious if there’s even a dozen books in that cup.  One of these things that works were as a PR stunt but who knows whether the impact would have been greater if they had just taken the money on the display and used it to buy books for children instead.

But then they wouldn’t have received any publicity in my blog.  Or anywhere else, for that matter.

There will probably be a few days where I don’t have any posts as I transit through Taipei with Tawn and across the Pacific Ocean.  Enjoy your final weekend before Christmas and try to make time for yourself and your loved ones.  Shopping, wrapping, decorating and cooking are much less important than enjoying the company of those close to you. 

 

Merry Jolly Mango Christmas

As you peruse these pictures and two-minute video of the holiday decorations around town, just keep repeating this mantra to yourself:

“It’s a predominately Buddhist nation… It’s a predominately Buddhist nation…”

Sure, you may find that really hard to believe given the huge quantity of Christmas ornamentation, but that’s just as much a testament to the commercialisation of Christmas than any conversion of the Thai populace to a new faith.

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Above, the Central Chidlom department store on Phloenchit Road.  Below, Central World Plaza on the corner of Rama I and Ratchaprop Roads. 

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Here’s a little video, set to cheerful music by Nat King Cole, to help you enjoy the sights of the season here in the wintry Big Mango:

View from the Athenee

Sunday afternoon I met Brian for dim sum at the Conrad Hotel, then we walked up the block to his new condo.  The complex, the Athenee Residences, is part of the Athenee Hotel, a five-star Royal Meridian property on Wireless Road near the US and British embassies.

(Yeah, a little hi-so for me, but what are you going to do?)

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Brian’s unit is on the 28th floor and has views to the south and west.  At this point it is unfurnished but it sounds like in another month or two he’ll be able to move in.  It is interesting to look at other people’s homes because everyone has different values and desires when it comes to living space: layouts, size, views, etc. are all dependent on personal taste.

Personally, I’d replace the craft paper window treatments, but that’s just me.

Needless to say, at twenty-eight stories above the Big Mango, he enjoys some nice views.  It was hazy on Sunday afternoon, but here are some shots and a short video clip.

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Looking to the west (and zooming in) you get a good view of the US ambassador’s residence, which is on one of the largest, most lush and most under-developed plots of land in the city center.

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At the corner of Wireless and Phloenchit Roads is this property, a series of shop houses that are being slowly demolished.  I wrote about this in October.  The open space on the other side of the Skytrain tracks is the British embassy, the front portion of which (demarked by the white wall) has been sold to the Central Group.  Central, a retail chain that owns the Central Chidlom department store which is just out of the upper left corner of the frame, plans on building a mall and office complex here to connect to the department store.

Phloenchit Skytrain station is on the right hand side of this picture and Wave Place, an office/retail complex that houses Home Pro (kind of a weak Home Depot) is the large building in the upper right hand corner of the picture.

Here’s the panorama from his balcony with a little explanation.

 

On the way home out in the “countryside” of Soi Thong Lor, I found myself behind a pickup truck carrying two bulls.  Why in the world they were driving into Thong Lor Soi 25, I have no idea.  It is a residential alley with no outlet and, to the best of my knowledge, no farms.

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The strange things you see in this city!

Wrapping it all up

The first few weeks of November are the last few weeks of rainy season here in Khrungthep, the weather cools and the monsoon rains come one storm after another.  It is pleasant to see the end of this season as it is followed by three or four months of relatively cool weather.

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Meeting Markus for lunch the other day at Central Chidlom department store, another storm arrived, stranding everyone indoors.  The mid-day traffic, usually very heavy around here, was notably absent.

A montage of monsoon scenes with some nice music.

After the rains ended, I noticed this billboard atop the Metropolitan Electric Authority building, next to the Chidlom BTS Skytrain station.

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The message: “Dedicated every minute for the good life of every person.”  I’ve never seen MEA employees look so happy.

 

Photo Shoot at Brent’s

A few weeks ago I wrote about the Health & Cuisine magazine photo shoot at our condo.  The magazine is always looking for people to feature in their “Men’s Cooking” column, so Tawn has used his connections to promote people as potential profiles.

Brent is an expat American who manages Chanintr Group, the company that owns the rights to retail brands like Martha Stewart, Thomasville, and Barbara Barry in Thailand.  With his sense of fashion and style, he was the perfect person to recommend for the column.

P1110197 With Tawn serving doing pro bono PR work for Brent, he arranged the column and photo shoot, setting Sunday morning as the appointment. 

We arrived a bit after 10:00 at Brent’s apartment (left), a high-rise on the east bank of the Chao Phraya River nestled at the end of a small soi between the Shangri-La Hotel on the south and the Oriental on the north.

As one would expect for the manager of a group of home furnishing stores, his apartment is beautifully decorated, tastefully appointed in a comfortable but not stuffy way.   It was a relaxing place to spend a Sunday morning as the photo shoot and interview took place.  Especially after the bottle of pink champagne was opened!

Here are some views taken from Brent’s apartment.  From top left, clockwise: View towards Taksin Bridge with the Shangri-La on the left.  View upriver with the Oriental on the right and the Millennium Hilton (with the “saucer” on top) across the river.  View of the State Tower which has the rooftop bar and restaurant, Sirocco.  View of Assumption Cathedral where we went to a wedding recently and, behind it, Assumption University.

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While there, we were introduced to the maid’s niece, Phrae, who was staying with them during the November school holidays.  She is quite the tom boy, with the aunt constantly complaining about her poor manners.  She’s rambunctious, yes, but it seems fueled by spirit rather than spoil.  Below, Tawn and Phrae play on the balcony.

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I think my role was to keep Phrae occupied so we played with her pretend mobile phone for a while and then, when I took some pictures of the view, she wanted to take some, too:

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P1110167 Figuring that the only thing I had to lose (beside the camera, if she dropped it off the balcony) was some memory space and some batteries, I let her start taking pictures.  In the next hour she snapped 400 photos, using up one battery and almost filling the memory card.

As she was taking pictures, I decided to let her shoot uninterrupted because I was reminded of the 2004 Academy Award winning documentary, Born into Brothels, directed by Ross Kauffman and Zana Briski.  Briski, a documentary photographer, went to Kolkata to photograph the lives of prostitutes,  While there, she befriended their children and taught some of them photography.  The photos were featured in the films and there were many stunning images.

What struck me was a curiosity of what pictures Phrae would take and how she saw the world around her.  Of the 400 photos, at least half were completely unusable from the standpoint of being very out of focus or terribly overexposed (you can’t take a picture of something shiny from three inches away, use a flash and expect to see anything afterwards).  But there were several dozen that I thought were very interesting.  I’ll post them after I’ve finished this entry so you can take a look and see the world through her eyes.  Here’s the link to that entry.

 

The Shoot

Let’s get to the real reason for us being there: the photo shoot.  Brent, who spent fifteen years living in Tokyo, is a big advocate of a Japanese breakfast, which he eats every morning.

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This healthy breakfast includes brown rice, an egg, some dried seaweed, pickles vegetables, and firm tofu.  Looks lovely, right?

Most of the shooting took place in the kitchen, but some additional shots were taken on his south-facing balcony overlooking the front of the Shangri-La.  The lighting was a bit of a challenge (at least for me – probably not as much of a challenge for the professional photographer), but they shot a series of a “conversation among friends” at which only Brent had any food in front of him.  Strange, huh?

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Amazingly enough, Brent makes his own pickles.  He demonstrated for us, using a plastic pickle-maker (looks a bit like a salad spinner) that he bought at the Isetan department store.  The best of all the pickles was the turnip (brown, lower right corner) which are salted, squeezed to remove all the liquid, then soaked in soy sauce.  They pick up such a wonderful smoky, caramel flavor.

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Below, Brent slices daikon radish to demonstrate the pickle making process.  We also tried his homemade dill pickles (excellent) and pickled beets (the best I’ve eaten).

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You just know that I’m thinking about making my own pickles, don’t you?

 

Thai Pile Driving

P1100804 I carry my camera with me just about everywhere I go, because you never know what interesting, blog-worthy things you will see.  Case in point: as Tawn and I were driving down Soi Phom Phong (Sukhumvit 39) we saw a group of laborers driving piles for the construction of a guard shack.

No large pieces of machinery for these construction workers.  No pile driver banging away with an incessant “clang”, “clang”, “clang.”  Instead, the scene was all smiles and song. 

I pulled the car over and walked back to take some pictures and shoot some video.  Here, in 90 seconds, is a taste of Thai pile driving.

Neat, huh?

 

Caught up in the PAD march

Despite Prime Minister Samak’s being removed from his post by the courts, despite former Prime Minister Thaksin Shinawatra being convicted in absentia and sentenced to two years in prison for tax evasion, the anti-government People’s Alliance for Democracy (PAD) continues its protests. 

It seems they will only be satisfied when the current government is disrupted and new elections are called – assuming they were sincere when PAD leaders recently dropped their demands for a parliament that was contained a majority of appointees, resulting in a government that would be (ironically, given their name) not democratic.

Another big PAD rally and march occurred today, heading down Phloenchit/Sukhumvit Road from Siam Square to Phrom Phong.  (Come to think about it, this could be called the Mall to Mall March.)  Originally, the march was to terminate at the British Embassy on Wittahyu Road but it looks like they kept on going, stopping only once heavy rains commenced.

As I left my Thai language class with Khruu Kitiya, the head of the protest was just arriving at the Asoke Skytrain station.  Caught up in the excitement (and lack of policemen in their mob control gear) I decided to risk life and limb to bring you, my readers, the story.

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Above, the head of the marchers, underneath the Asoke Skytrain station heading into the Asoke-Sukhumvit intersection.  The crowd looked to be about 5,000 – 10,000 strong but the rains about thirty minutes later cut that to just a few thousand.

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Above, looking from Asoke station eastwards towards Phrom Phong station (where Emporium mall is located).  By the time the crowd had passed the intersection – a good fifteen minutes – the traffic backed up on Asoke reached a solid two kilometers to Phetchaburi Road and beyond.

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Above, a close-up from the previous vantage point, showing the crowds already down several blocks,

After taking the train into town to pay my electricity bill, I stopped at Emporium on the way back for a bite to eat, where I caught up with a rain storm and about two thousand remaining PAD members, who sought shelter beneath the Phrom Phrong station, stopping traffic on both sides of the street, below.

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Security guards at the BTS Skytrain and the Emporium mall watched nervously, hoping that crowds would not turn against them.  All in all, the demonstration was very peaceful – other than causing massive gridlock in a city that already has terrible congestion.

Above: Here’s ninety seconds of footage I edited together so you could get a fuller sense of the scope of the protest.

 

Turning the other cheek

What a busy few days.  Don’t know if you saw, but my last entry asking for everyone to support the “No on Proposition 8” campaign ended up as a featured entry on the front page of Xanga.  As of Sunday evening my time, there are 2600+ views.

The good news is that about 80% of the 150+ comments are supportive.  The bad news is that the 20% who don’t agree with my position are probably not going to be swayed.

I’ve made it a point to respond to all comments, even though trying to refute the same arguments is tiring.  The ones that are easier to refute are the ones based in legal precedent: for example, people who don’t like the “activist” judges who “overturned democracy” – forgetting that 3 of those 5 judges are Republicans, appointed by Republican governors.

The more difficult ones to refute are the “I don’t like gay marriage because my god says so” arguments.  If you are convinced that you are righteous, what can I say to change your mind.  I’ll just have to wait until their day of judgement when, standing on heaven’s doorstep, God asks them what part of Jesus’ teachings they didn’t understand.  Was it the “love your neighbor as yourself” part?  The “worry about the log in your own eye before you worry about the splinter in someone else’s eye” part?  Maybe the “let he who is without sin cast the first stone” teaching? 

Personally, I take great comfort in Matthew 5:11:

“Blessed are ye, when men shall revile you, and persecute you, and shall say all manner of evil against you falsely, for my sake.”

Let’s move on to other news as I never intended for this blog to be a political sideshow.

 

New Car

No, we haven’t bought a new car.  But in a few years when our 11-year old Nissan Cefiro is ready for a replacement, I think I’ve found the perfect replacement.  It is cheaper than a Mini and a Mercedes Smart car, cuter than a Yaris, and fits in the narrow sois of Khrungthep without any problem.

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I’m thinking white is the better choice of colors, but red is pretty cute, too.

We have had a lot of guests in town this weekend.  Thankfully, we had time on Thursday evening to have dinner with PJ and Theresa.  This was the first time we had seen PJ in years and years and our first time to meet Theresa, which was wonderful.  Unfortunately, no pictures.

I think Biing is in town with his family, although have not heard from him yet.  Otto and Han are in town with their friends.  Coincidentally, we ran into them at the front of the Oriental Hotel last night when we jumped out of a taxi to attend a wedding.  An entry about that beautiful event soon.

Also, Paul (aka “Ekin” here on Xanga) is in town although we don’t expect to hear from him necessarily.  Who else?  Oh, the brother of Trish’s close friend and colleague is in town from Hong Kong, staying in his vacation home.  Maybe we’ll see him Tuesday night if time allows.

Crazy, huh?

I’ll write about the wedding tomorrow but want to share with you some pictures from the demolition of the block of shop houses at the corner of Ploenchit Road (different stretch of Sukhumvit) and Witthayu/Wireless Road.  They are taking a long time to demolish these buildings, dismantling them from the inside.

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In the picture above, you can see a low building with a metal roof in the midst of the empty lot.  That’s the “housing” for the workers, all of whom are from the countryside and many of whom are probably from Laos, Cambodia or Burma.  Seems to be the same story everywhere: immigrants from somewhere else come in to do the dirtiest, lowest-paying work.  Who does that work in their own countries?

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Above, you can see how the building is being taken down, story by story.  An arduous process to say the least!

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Interestingly, the buildings are brought down in separate sections.  The buildings to the left and right of this one are still being demolished, whereas this one is already completely gone.  I wonder why they do it this way?

 

The Dog Days of Rainy Season

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Above: an exhausted dog keeps watch (barely) over a table of local eggs for sale along Soi Rang Nam.  The vendor was nowhere in sight.  I was curious whether, if I wanted to buy some eggs, the dog could give correct change.

The final days of Bruce’s trip were lower-key.  I had to get back to work and I think he was ready to just chill out and not see any more sights.  We picked up his tuxedo, custom made at the same shop many of our guests enjoy visiting, so that he will have something nice to wear for his performance at Carnegie Hall in New York next April.

The final night, we went across the street to Extra Virgin, the cute new Thai-European bistro that opened a few weeks ago.  The decor is very nice but Tawn and I were actually surprised by the food.  All in all, much better than we had expected.  Sadly, so many western or quasi-western style restaurants in Khrungthep are long on concept and short on kitchen execution.  Not so in the case of extra virgin.  Here’s a selection of the food we enjoyed:

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Top row from left: Indian-themed appetizers with fried calamari and vegetable samosas; Thai-themed appetizers with a take on fried chicken and sticky rice served with a “som tam” style salad made of guava; rocket and pancetta salad topped with a very light balsamic dressing.  Bottom row from left: seafood and vermicelli stir fry; a take on pad thai; grilled pork and sticky rice with chili dipping sauce.

My pictures of the western food did not turn out so well, but I thought the veal, which Bruce had, was nicely done and the coq a vin, while slightly less rich than I’m used to, was also tasty.

Below, Bruce’s plane taxis out to the runway after a full ten days in the Big Mango.

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P1100597 With Bruce departed, we had to find other ways to entertain ourselves.  Life returned to normal as we had dim sum with a group of Tawn’s school friends, Eddy, Sa and Job. 

Sa and Job brought their half-year old baby boy, J.J.  He has his mother’s fair skin and his father’s beautiful eyes and was the center of attention.

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J.J. was pretty fussy when other people would pick him up to hold him, but if you picked him up and held him facing towards his parents so he could see them, he didn’t fuss.

P1100614 Later on, Tawn’s friend Prince came by to get changed for a wedding.  His back was hurting him so he asked Tawn to stand on his lower back. 

Knowing how much Thais consider the feet to be the lowest part of the body (cultural note – you never touch another person with your feet, gesture to something with your feet, or put your feet up on furniture or objects while in public) you have to be a pretty close friend to be asked to step on someone!

Time to direct Prince to a chiropractor.

In short, things are returning to normal here at home.  I’m able to work in my office again, we can wander around the house without regards for our state of dress, and I can enjoy the fresh air and cooling breezes with my windows open and balcony door ajar.

Tawn and I were talking about this: it is nice to have visitors, but we’re not very used to having visitors in our small home, especially for extended lengths of time.  It is amazing how much it alters your normal routine.  Something we’ll have to keep in mind in the future as we travel and visit others.