The Drive to Bang Saphan

Bang Saphan We started our drive to Bang Saphan on Saturday morning at 7:00.  The start of a 5-day weekend, we knew that there would be plenty of company on the roads and had steeled our nerves, laying in a basket of snacks and packing the iPod charger.

Located 385 kilometers south of Khrungthep, Bang Saphan is at the southern end of Prachuap Khiri Khan province, the same one in which Hua Hin is located.  Another further south and we’d officially leave Central Thailand and be in the South.

The road was two lanes in each direction, and generally in good condition.  Except for a little spot of construction.  Well, two little spots of construction, each about 10 km long and one of which involved one whole side of the road being shut down and all the traffic had to share the other side.

As you can imagine, traffic was a teensy bit heavy.

What would normally be about a four-and-a-half hour trip stretched to about seven, plus an hour for lunch and breaks.

Still, it could have been worse.  Tawn was expecting ten hours.

Along the way we saw all sorts of crazy things on the road:

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Above: Not sure if this is a pickup truck or a spare axle being carried along…  Below: Most everyone drove a pickup truck and in addition to the five or six or seven people squeezed into the cab, it was common to see two or three or seven sitting in the bed of the truck.  In the hot sun for hours and hours.

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Above: During Songkhran people like to splash your car (and you) with water and a talcum-like power.  This clever driver preemptively covered his entire car with a pair of big eyes on the front and wear windscreens providing (some) visibility.  Below: As we got further from the city, we started seeing signs of country life such as a truck of cattle and a huge stack of hay.  No, the hay was not directly in front of the cattle, although that would have been funny.

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Below: At one long traffic jam, we noticed this building alongside the road that appears to have been taken over by ivy.

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Finally, a reminder that Songkhran is the most dangerous period on Thai roads.  In the five days from Friday to Tuesday, there were 3,537 road accidents, 3,992 injuries, and 276 deaths.  While there has been a big increase in enforcement efforts in the past few years, this number has remained very high and, sadly, so many of the deaths are alcohol-related.  More about that in my next post.

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Saigon Journal Part 3

Here are a selection of photos from my trip to Ho Chi Minh City, along with a few that were taken in the days before the trip while we had several guests in town.

Notes and impressions from the Saigon trip are in two brief entries: Part 1 here and Part 2 here.

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A Buddhist monk reads a book while riding the Chao Praya river taxi in Thailand.  A farang tourist stands behind him.  The taxis run up and down the river like a boat, stopping a designated piers.  Conductors onboard carry a metal cylinder containing coins and receipts, just like on the Bangkok buses.  Because of their prohibition from touching or being touched by women, monks have a reserved space at the back of the boat where they can stand.

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Ryan and Tod riding in the long-tail boat we hired to get us back down the Chao Praya in record time.  A normal river taxi would have been 30 minutes; the long-tail boat got us there in 10 and afforded us an excellent view.  We were bouncing along the water so fast that we could have water skiied behind.

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Chris eating pho – beef noodle soup – the afternoon of our arrival in Ho Chi Minh City.  Tawn had to complete a press release for work, so he stayed at the hotel and Ryan and I started exploring nearby.  Just a few blocks away we ran into a pho shop on the corner and enjoyed two bowls of soup and two bottles of water for only 30,000 Dong – about US$2.00.

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Ryan posing at the impressive stained glass windows at the Italian villa-style Fine Arts Museum in Ho Chi Minh City.  While most of the art was limited to certain political themes, a wide range of styles and skills were demonstrated.

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A young man sits atop a soon-to-be-installed sewer pipe along the waterfront in Ho Chi Minh City.  Young people were the optimistic face of the future and we regularly encountered children who wanted to talk with us or be in our pictures.

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Young lovers along the riverfront shortly after sunset.  Young couples have little privacy as most live with their families until marriage (and often afterwards, too), so they seek out private time in very public places.  The main parks were also quite busy in the evenings as couples perched on motor bike seats, talking and just holding each other – a rare public display of affection.

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Outside the Reunification Palace, Tawn is mobbed by a group of school children who are eager to be photographed.  Reunification Palace was formerly the Presidential Palace and it is preserved almost exactly as it was on April 30, 1975 when North Vietnamese tanks crashed through the main gates (those two tanks are still parked on the lawn outside the building) and the South Vietnamese government finally fell.

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Tawn takes a turn grilling dinner at a popular outdoor restaurant.  Our half-kilo of fresh shrimp arrived in a plastic grocery bag, still kicking.  The waiter showed us how to snap their main nerve with a toothpick before throwing them on the grill to cook, otherwise they’d squirm and jump off the grill.

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Much of Ho Chi Minh City’s commerce takes place on the streets.  Here, a barber has set up shop next to a wall, hanging a tarp overhead for shade and using a vintage barbershop chair.

His young customer shows some trepidation about getting what turns out to be a very short haircut.  People everywhere were very friendly and happy to pose for photographs.

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Motorbikes were ubiquitous in HCMC.  What was most surprising was the number of people they carried.  Carpooling (for lack of a beter word) is the norm, and it wasn’t unusual to see an entire family riding one bike.  The album link below has more photos of groups on motorbikes.

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One of the things that most sparked Ryan’s childhood memories was the flavors of his childhood.  Here, we stop for fresh-pressed sugar cane juice, available from vendors thorughout the city.  Ryan said that the sugar cane juice in Viet Nam tastes different from that he’s had elsewhere in the world.

Making Friends in Saigon:

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Sunday evening I was taking time-exposure pictures of the Hotel de Ville, the Communist Party headquarters.  There were many families strolling about and as I took the pictures, several youngsters came over to see what I was doing.

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One in particular, about five years old, was very keen to help take the pictures.  Between a combination of gestures I showed him what button to push and he took this second picture of another boy and his father standing in front of the Hotel de Ville.

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When I asked if he wanted me to take a picture of him and his sister, he looked at me with all seriousness and said, “no, thank you.”  So we continued taking pictures.  His sister, unable to get a chance to try because of her brother’s enthusiasm, wandered off in front of the camera.  I turned on the flash and had her brother snap another picture; his sister was surprised by the flash and came running over to see what happened.

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Once the picture appeared on screen they both squealed with delight, and then the young boy decided he, too, wanted his picture taken.  Afterwards, I asked the father whether they had an email address so I could send the pictures to them.  Unfortunately, they have “no computer” and it didn’t occur to me to get a mail address so I could print out the photos and send them to the family.  If anyone reading this knows anyone in Ho Chi Minh City, send the link to them and maybe we can track these children down!

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Ryan and I with a vendor who sells Vietnamese sandwiches.  The rolls and pate fillings are undoubtedly influenced by the French, and provided another flavor memorie for Ryan.  He went back for a second sandwich a few minutes later.  The vendor spoke English well and kept insisting that we would make her very happy if we bought a third sandwich from her.

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Flowers at the Marriaman Hindu Temple – the only Hindu temple in HCMC serving a Hindu population estimated at about 60 people.  It is also considered an auspicious site for other religions, though.

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We visited one afternoon around sunset and again the next day, captivated by the brilliant colors.

When we returned to the temple the next day, a young lady and her toddler were playing at the front entrance.  The toddler was very outgoing, throwing a pen at me and then coming over and hugging my legs.  Later, he was playing with blocks on the tile floor and smiled for this picture.  His mother had him running around without a diaper, so I wanted to be careful to avoid taking any pictures that could be misinterpreted by any suspicious authorities.

Last Day in the US Spent in NYC

Saturday in New York City.  Upper East Side, Lexington and 84th.  Holly’s lived in this charming corner apartment on the third floor for 14 years. Needless to say, the rent is a steal, and it is a charming neighborhood. 

Last night we walked a few blocks down to Tiramisu, a local Italian restaurant.  It was about nine o’clock and the restaurant was crowded as we arrived.  Fortunately, the maitre d’ was someone that Holly had known several years ago so we were seated quickly.  In fact, they must have been good friends, because he came back and refilled our glasses of wine and was very attentive.

The food was good – it is a neighborhood type of restaurant – satisfying but not too fancy.  I had the daily risotto special, which featured asparagus, arugula, and large fresh shrimp.  Interestingly, it was served in a hollowed-out grapefruit perched atop additional risotto.  Tasty.

The tiramisu itself was fantastic, a good size brick that Holly and I shared.

Hard to believe, or maybe not so hard, that the time has come for my move.  After several years of possibility, sixteen months of planning, and three months of actual organization and execution, the day has arrived.  The first twenty-two plus years were stationary; the next dozen have been downright nomadic. 

This morning I met my protoge and now boss, Kim Fordham, for brunch at Danal – a fantastic, eclectic brunch place that looks like your English great-grandmother’s back patio.  It was very nice.  While waiting for Kim and her friend Pat, I sat on a bench in the front window and played with the resident cat, a fat white and black long-hair.  She was quite fond of me and I spent the remainder of the afternoon removing white cat fur from my black wool jacket.

During the afternoon I browsed at Strand Books, one of the largest used bookstores in the world.  I picked up Ruling Your World: Ancient Strategies for Modern Life by Sakyong Mipham.  While the book doesn’t have anything “new” to say – common sense, really – it is interesting to read how the basic messages of not being so centered on “me” are packaged.

This evening, I’ll meet up with Aaron Wong and Keith Chan for drink at G Lounge – a bar in Chelsea.  Then Holly and I will have a late dinner (9:00) at Blue Hill.  One of my favorite restaurants in New York, this cozy spot with acclaimed chefs Dan Barber and Juan Cuevas features – their words – “Seasonal American food featuring the produce of the Hudson Valley.” 

Bonus: Last night I took my thirteen months’ collection of coins to the grocery store.  After CoinStar’s 8.9% service charge, I still had $108.36.  Enough to pay for my cab from LaGuardia and then to JFK airport.  Ha.

Second Bonus: Here’s a photo I snapped at my bon voyage party thrown by my sister, Jennifer, last week.  My niece, Emily, my father, and Jennifer’s dog Zoe were in a three way tug of war in which Emily ended up the loser!

Many thanks to Jenn and Kevin for hosting the party.  It was a lot of fun to spend time with all our family members as well as dear friends.

Bags Are Packed and I’m Heading to the Airport

While they didn’t contain everything I wanted to bring, my bags were finally packed.  A last load of laundry was in the dryer and I unloaded the dishwasher.  Ken arrived this morning at about 6:25 and started loading the three larger suitcases into his truck as I brushed my teeth, packed the toothpaste in the trolley bag, and did the last thing on my checklist (courtesy of my father): turn the thermostat down to 55 degrees.

Checking in at the airport, I learned that United has instituted a rather reasonable policy: they now charge $25 for bags that are between 50 and 70 pounds.  Over 70 pounds either has to go as freight or has a higher surcharge – I’m not sure which is the case.  All three of my bags were between 54 and 58 pounds, despite my best efforts to mix the dense items like compact discs and coffee with lighter items like clothes and bed sheets.

Thankfully, I get a stop in New York before I depart on Sunday morning.  Many thanks to Holly Stern for letting me stay on her hide-a-bed with her cat.  Her lovely Upper East Side apartment will be packed with my suitcases for two nights.

Here’s a picture of Holly and her adopted-eight-weeks-ago Lab/Hound mix, Ally.

Thinking Ahead to Christmas Travels

My last Saturday in Kansas City.  After rushing around the United States and Canada on business, I’m glad to be back home for my last week.  Lots to do, though.  My parents are in town for the weekend, as my sister is throwing a Bon Voyage party for me this evening.  On the menu: tri-tip roasts prepared two ways (Santa Maria rub and Teriyaki marinade) along with a slew of side dishes prepared by other people.

Christmas Trip – This week I finalised the itinerary that Tawn and I will take for our trip back to Kansas City over Christmas.  As I wrote previously, this was a tough trip to book for several reasons:

First, Tawn only has five vacation days left this calendar year and since Christmas is not a recognized holiday in Thailand, we couldn’t count on any additional days off.  Second, we wanted to hit both Kansas City and San Francisco, as Bruce and Howie were quite adamant when I last saw them that they expect to see us for New Year’s.

Finally, prices were just out of control.  I found a trip on Singapore that would get us to San Francisco and then we would have to book SF to Kansas City separately.  The price was about $2800 total but we arrived on Christmas Day.  To book United the whole way would run us $3600 but we would arrive on Christmas Eve instead.  When I spoke with my sister, she indicated that arriving on Christmas Day wasn’t very workable (at least, that’s how I interpreted her message – maybe inaccurately), so I put up a mental roadblock that the Singapore option wasn’t workable.

It is interesting how putting up mental roadblocks really doesn’t allow you to make good decisions.  Tawn and were discussing the pricier alternative and were at the point of deciding that we would skip the entire trip because $3600 was just too much more than we were willing to pay.  Following that conversation, I stopped by my grandparents’ house and was telling them about the tough decision we faced.

My grandmother, always a woman of great sense and clarity of thought, pointed out that my aunt wasn’t even going to arrive until the day after Christmas and so we would not have the entire Tebow family together until afterwards anyhow.  That was enough to jolt the mental log jam loose, and as I drove back home I realized that if we arrived on Christmas Day, then we arrived on Christmas Day.  That isn’t a good enough reason to spend a ton of extra money.

So that evening I sat down at the computer and made a fresh start of it.  Sure enough, with the mental river flowing unobstructed, I saw options that had previously not been visible to me.  In the end, here’s what we arrived at and booked:

December 24th

    • Leave Bangkok 7:45 am and arrive Singapore 11:10 am
    • (6 hour layover in Singapore – Otto and Han, will you be in town?)
    • Leave Singapore at 5:00 pm, stop in Hong Kong for 1 hour, arrive in SFO 5:55 pm on the same day.
  • (Overnight in San Francisco, staying at the SF Airport Marriott – anyone in town on Christmas Eve and want to have dinner?  Maybe Watergate is open?)

December 25th

  • Leave SFO at 7:15 am, connect in Denver, and arrive Kansas City at 3:00 pm

December 30th

  • Leave Kansas City at 7:10 am, connect in Denver, and arrive SFO at 12:10 pm

January 2nd

    • Leave SFO at 12:05 am (five minutes after January 1st ends)
    • Connect through HKG and SIN
  • Arrive in Bangkok at 2:30 pm on January 3rd.

All this for only US$2,100 plus about 20,000 Mileage Plus miles and one domestic free ticket (for a volunteer denied boarding earlier this spring).  Very good.

Packing – Good news.  Most of what I want to move to BKK on this trip will fit into the suitcases.  I did most of the packing last night.  However, I’m thinking that since the Christmas trip is a go, I might pull out some of the heavier items (I don’t really need all my DVDs right now, do I?) and save them for December.

This will allow some extra room for lighter items like sheets and towels.  Tawn has asked me to buy some here as the quality is better than in Thailand.  Plus, there’s no need to have suitcases that are 50+ pounds apiece.  Better to lighten them up a little bit so they’re easier to handle in New York. 

Reflections After a Toronto Visit

Wow – back home in Kansas City this evening after three weeks on the road.  Two in BKK, one in Atlanta and Toronto.  I’ve been quite busy and have had minimal personal email access so haven’t had the time to update the blog.

Toronto is always a favorite place to visit because I think the food scene is vibrant.  Lots of good eats for a good value.  The city is widely recognized as the most diverse city in North America with more than 80 languages spoken by its residents.  The diversity influences the cuisine and I made sure to get dim sum and jok (congee – rice porridge) while there.

 

The best eat in terms of food was the Jamie Kennedy Wine Bar.  This “small plates” restaurant is overseen by the hottest chef in Toronto.  No reservations are accepted and it is one of “the” places to eat.  Nonetheless, it has a reputation for great food.  We headed down there on Saturday night, fully realizing that the wait would be long.  There is a lounge so we figured we could drink and nibble our way through the wait.

Sure enough – “ninety minutes to two hours” greeted us at the hostess stand.  Not disuaded one bit we entertained ourselves with a bottle of the 200 Alizan Tempranilla from Spain and an order of Yukon Gold Potato Fries (amazing!), olives and spices pecans.  We noticed that tables and seats at the bar regularly opened up and were left empty for long periods of time – unusual if the wait was really 90+minutes.

Thirty-five minutes later the hostess came over and told us that she had space available for us at “the chef’s table” (pictured above) – a secondary open kitchen area where some of the dishes are prepared that is surrounded by a high bar with seats.  So our 90 minutes evaporated and we were soon seated and enjoying what could best be described as a “leisurely” pace of service.

While the place was busy, the friendly server seemed rushed.  But it was never a problem, allowing us plenty of time to watch the action in the kitchen.  The small dishes we tried included Braised Beef Cheeks with Soft Polenta; Sautéed Duck Livers with Apples and Sherry Sauce; Rabbit and Duck Rillettes with Prune Compôte, and an Entrecôte of Beef with Sweet Potato Pavé. 

With dinner we had an Edmeades Zinfandel from Mendocino, California.  An old favorite, hard to find sometimes, and a brilliant wine.

The beef cheeks were the best of the lot, tender and flavorful.  The duck livers were nice but veiny.  The rillettes – essentially a paté of duck and rabbit – were tasty and nicely complemented by the prunes, but we were getting full.  The roast of beef had been finished on the grill when we arrived and we watched it resting in all its glory, so had to try it.  It was excellently flavored, just a touch too rare (and I love my meat red, so I do mean “rare”), and the sweet potatoes were a nice addition. 

For dessert, despite an absence of space ini our bellies, we tries the Marscapone and Sugar Pear Shortcake.  This was a flop, because the pear was completely raw and the spoon and fork were inadequate for slicing it.  In fact, it nearly slid out of the bowl more than once. 

We accompanied dessert with a serving of the 2004 Bonny Doon “Viogner Doux”, an amber dessert wine that smells of nothing so much as candied apricots.  It was nice in and of itself and would have done better on its own without the over-crunch pear.

So it was a fun time.

But now it is time to get back to reality in KC.  I have bags to pack, magazine subscriptions to modify, and much to do in the ten days or so I have left.

Twenty-Seven Hours of Travel

Twenty-seven hours of travel… all times Central Daylight Savings Time

Sunday 5:50 pm – arrive at Bangkok airport after having slept only 5 hours because of an evening arrival from Singapore.  Almost miss my 6:45 flight and am the last to check in.  Flight is smooth and comfortable.

Monday 12:20 am – arrive at Narita airport in Tokyo.  Take shower at Red Carpet Club and make an easy connection to LAX.

Monday 12:50 pm – arrive at LAX and recheck my bags for remainder of trip.  Sunny day and pleasant in LA.

Monday 5:00 pm – in San Francisco with a two-hour layover.  Eat lunch, a roast beef sandwich on Boudin sourdough bread.

Monday 8:45 pm – arrive in Denver to discover that they have had snow and my flight to Kansas City is cancelled.  I am booked on the 10:30 flight tomorrow morning, meaning I’ll miss my 8:30 am flight to Atlanta.

We’ll see what the adventure has in store for me.  And who said that getting there is half the fun?

Mileage Run on United’s PS Service

Yesterday I returned from a 22-hour mileage run on United Airlines’ P.S. service from SFO-JFK.  The trip report is here.  Lots of pictures of planes, especially some of jetBlue just for Michael, Patrick, and Bill.

 

It was a good trip, getting to experience some of United’s best service.  It also was an inexpensive way for me to maintain my 1K Mileage Plus status.

 

Back in San Francisco today, I’m going to try to catch up on some of my movies.  I watched Wong Kar Wai’s 2046 after arriving back in SFO.  It was a visually beautiful film, DP’d by Christopher Doyle.  I’ll also try to meet up with Anita and with Paul, so it should be a busy day.

Two More Trip Reports

Busy weekend – mostly spent finishing up my final two trip reports from the July trip to Bangkok.

 

Part 4 of 5 covers the THAI Airways International flight from Bangkok to Tokyo Narita and feature exciting people like Paul and Aori (below) and Tawn (left).

 

The fifth and final leg of the trip – Tokyo Narita to Los Angeles, features the world’s best airline: Singapore.  The trip report includes details on some of the amazing customer service they provided.

 

 

 

This evening – once I get this bloody project completed – I’m heading over to Jenn and Kevin’s (Sister and Brother-in-Law) to grill a couple of tri-tip roasts and some double-cut pork chops.  Tri-tips have been marinating in a Santa Maria rub for 24 hours.  The pork chops in a homemade teriyaki marinade.  Yum…