Making S’Mores from Scratch

My big project the past few weeks has been trying to make s’mores from scratch. S’mores, an American campfire classic, is a sandwich of graham crackers filled with a square of chocolate and a fire-roasted marshmallow. My goal was to understand the mechanics of each of the components, to make each from scratch. All three parts have been added.

Click here to go to Part 2.

Click here to go to Part 3.

 

Part 1: Making the Marshmallows

The first question I had to answer is, What is a marshmallow? It is one of those questions that I had never considered. Turns out, marshmallows are a whipped mixture of gelatine and sugar syrup.

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I started by hydrating powdered gelatine in a mixture of water and coconut cream. A previous attempt used passion fruit juice, although the flavor became a bit sour as it cooked. In the future, I would add the juice near the end of the process. This time, I decided to try some coconut cream to see how it impacts the flavor. In the end, I couldn’t really detect the coconut flavor. Will have to play more with flavors in the future.

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On the stove, I boiled a mixture of water, granulated sugar, and corn syrup. Once it boils, you keep heating it until it reaches the “soft ball” stage – 240 F / 115 C. You have to be super careful as sugar syrup can burn you something fierce.

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As soon as the syrup hits the target temperature, you drizzle it into the hydrated gelatine as the mixer stirs at slow speed. As soon as the syrup is incorporated, you increase the mixer’s speed to full and whip, whip, whip for about ten minutes. As you whip, the sugar mixture cools and, with the gelatine, starts to stiffen, trapping the air in millions of small bubbles. The more and the faster you whip, the lighter the marshmallow should be. The end result was like a jar of marshmallow creme.

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Most recipes call for spreading the marshmallow onto a baking sheet prepared with butter and a powdered sugar / corn starch mixture. I tried that the first time and you wind up with rectangular marshmallows. For this attempt, I used metal rings (also prepared with butter and the powdered sugar / corn starch) and used a pastry bag to pipe the marshmallow creme into the rings. Three words: big sticky mess.

I tried to pipe some of the marshmallow into what I hoped with be small “puffs” but the mixture was too loose and spread into puddles. Lessons learned…

Afterwards, I dusted the tops with more of the powdered sugar / corn starch mixture so the marshmallows’ surface wouldn’t dry. Then I set the marshmallows aside to firm up at room temperature. It can take between six and twelve hours for the marshmallows to finish setting.

 

Part Two: Making the Graham Crackers

To serve a roasted marshmallow without making a total mess, you need something to hold it. The perfect tool: a pair of graham crackers. Graham flour is a course whole wheat flour and graham crackers were originally created as a health product, which they are to some extent – if you ignore the butter and sugar!

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The results of an initial test batch of graham crackers, cut into a traditional square shape. I used molasses as the sweetener, which resulted in a darker dough. The second batch was made with honey, giving them a lighter color. Flavor is really good, especially since I put a good bit of cardamom in.

Here’s the video… hope you enjoy!

 

Part 3: Putting it All Together

The following morning, it was time to remove the marshmallows from their rings, let them dry a bit more, and then take them to my friend Chow’s house where they would be dessert.

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The process of cutting them out of the rings was easier than I anticipated. A sharp knife, cleaned after each marshmallow, freed them from their metal cages. I dusted the freshly-exposed edges in the powdered sugar and corn starch mixture, to prevent them from drying out.

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The finished marshmallows, just a little ragged around the edges, and the round graham crackers in the background. They had a really pleasing, spongy texture. Just wanted to keep squeezing them!

That evening at Chow’s, the dishes were cleared, the graham crackers were put in an oven for a few minutes to warm them, and the chocolate ganache was put into a piping bag. Then the assembly process began! Since we had no campfire, I used a small butane torch to roast the marshmallows. The very high heat makes quick work of it, with the exteriors bubbling and caramelized long before the centers.

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The end result was every bit as sweet and messy to eat as you might imagine. But for folks who grew up eating s’mores after a grilled dinner or while camping, they brought back memories. I’d classify this experiment as a success. I’ll definitely make marshmallows again – probably with my nieces – and homemade graham crackers are super easy to make, especially when you don’t cut them into circles.

Thanks for your patience watching this series and for your feedback and comments.

 

Chocolate Raspberry Torte

A little bit more about the cake I baked for my 40th birthday.  For all the cooking I do, I don’t have a lot of experience with cakes and cake-like desserts.  I’m more of a bread man, myself.  Nonetheless, I decided to make a cake because it is always a good experience and there was a recipe for a Revamped Chocolate Torte in the November-December issue of Cooks Illustrated that looked worth a try.

I started the recipe on Thursday afternoon with a little prep work, then did the actual baking on Friday afternoon.  Overall, I think the cake turned out okay although it is such a rich cake – nearly flourless – that it wouldn’t make my list of favorite cakes.  But then, I’m not a big cake person.  One challenge is that the recipe uses a food processor, which I don’t own.  Instead, I used a stand mixer.  Things seemed to work okay, but I don’t know if the slower speed of the mixer affected the texture at all.

I’ll give you a rundown of the recipe and the preparation process:

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The first step was to make some almond flour, basically finely-processed almonds.  You can buy this in some markets (it is used to make macarons, for example) but the recipe explains how to make it yourself since you use a relatively small quantity.  Take 1 cup (4 ounces) of sliced almonds and lightly toast them.

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Then process in a food processor for a few pulses until finely ground.  You then add 1/4 cup (1 1/4 ounces) of flour and 1/2 teaspoon table salt and process it a few more seconds to combine.  Not having a food processor, I used a coffee grinder attachment for my blender and it seemed to work okay.

Note on food processors.  I had one in the US and didn’t seem to use it often.  But nowadays I keep encountering recipes that call for a food processor, especially in the making of quick and easy pastry dough.  I may break down eventually and buy another food processor. Cooks Illustrated recommends the 12-cup Kitchen Aid model.

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Next, melt 8 ounces bittersweet chocolate with 12 tablespoons (1 1/2 sticks) of butter in a bowl set over simmering water.  After smooth, remove from the heat and cool to room temperature, adding 2 teaspoons of vanilla extract and 1/4 teaspoon of instant espresso powder.  Not having that, I had to use instant coffee.

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While the eggs are cooling, process 5 large eggs in the food processor until almost doubled in volume.  Not having the processor, I whipped them with the mixer.  I think this may have made the texture a bit more dense than had I used the food processor.  As the eggs are being whipped, slowly add 3/4 cup (5 1/4 ounces) of granulated sugar.  What you see here is the almond/flour/salt mixture, the egg/sugar mixture, and the chocolate/butter mixture.

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Start by gently folding the egg mixture into the chocolate mixture using the whisk.  This does not have to be thoroughly incorporated.

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Next, gently whisk in the almond-flour mixture.  Divide the batter between two 9-inch cake pans lined with parchment.  The pans were not buttered and floured.

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After baking about 15 minutes at 325 F.  Allow the cakes to cool in the pans and then remove.

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Spread a filling made of 1/4 cup raspberry jam and 1/2 cup raspberries (I used frozen as fresh are way too expensive here), mashed together. 

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Add the second layer of the cake, inverted so the bottom of the cake is facing up, giving you a relatively smooth surface with which to work.

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To glaze the cake, melt 5 ounces of bittersweet chocolate with 1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon heavy cream over a simmering pot of water.  Then pour the glaze onto the cake and use a spatula to spread it evenly over the cake.

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You can then add almonds to the side of the cake.  I think I was supposed to use lightly chopped almonds but all I had were the sliced almonds.  This is kind of a messy prospect.  Also, you can decorate the top of the cake with fresh raspberries, which I didn’t have.  The biggest challenge for me was that the glaze didn’t have a smooth, liquid consistency.  Maybe it needed to be melted a bit further or have just a little more cream in it so it poured over the sides in a smooth motion?  This is where my inexperience with cakes comes in.

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Per the recipe, I put the cake in the fridge for a few hours to let the frosting set.  I didn’t get it removed early enough, though, and when it was served it was still pretty cool and the ganache was solid.  When I arrived at the restaurant I should have asked them to leave the cake out rather than put it in the fridge.  Anyhow, it was tasty enough and considering it was for my own party, I think it turned out pretty nice.

I hope you enjoyed this cooking adventure and encourage you to try the cake yourself.