Sunday Mediterranean Brunch

There’s a cookbook I bought years ago called San Francisco Flavors, compiled by the Junior League of San Francisco.  While I never thought I’d have much use for something that seemed so high society, over the years I’ve found a lot of useful recipes.  The recipes make good use of locally available ingredients and given the Bay Area’s Mediterranean climate, many of the dishes have flavors that echo those found in the Mediterranean region.

This afternoon we had two friends over, Tammy and Roka.  Tammy is the sister of a friend I worked with during my high school days spent tearing tickets and popping popcorn at a cinema.  She’s now living here for a few years.  We’ve known Roka for a few years now and she’s recently moved back after a year in Australia.  They made for perfect company on a Sunday afternoon for brunch.

P1220548

Above, Chris, Tawn, Roka and Tammy.  I don’t think Roka and Tawn coordinated, but maybe.  I need to think more carefully about my placement in photos – I look huge!

The meal centered on two dishes from San Francisco Flavors, both of which I ended up modifying just a little.  The first one was a cauliflower dish served at room temperature.

P1220533

The ingredients are interesting because the flavor of the sauce is very savory.  A closer look:

P1220531

Clockwise: kalmata olives, capers, garlic, chili flakes and anchovy paste.  In this case, not having anchovy paste I just minced several anchovy fillets.  Add some tomatoes, parsley, rosemary, and thyme and you have your dish.

You sauté the cauliflower until just starting to brown but still crisp.  Remove from the pan and then cook the savory ingredients for several minutes until soft.  You then add the cauliflower back and cook for a few more minutes until starting to get crisp-tender.  In a small saucepan you bring a bit of balsamic vinegar, sugar and tomato paste to a boil then pour it over the cauliflower mixture.

P1220538

The whole thing is allowed to marinate overnight before serving at room temperature with some additional thyme added to it.  This turned out to be a very tasty way to serve cauliflower.

The main dish was crepes stuffed with a chicken, apple, and mushroom filling.  The original recipe called for regular crepes but I used buckwheat flour mixed with all-purpose flour, which lent the crepes a little more heft.  When making the crepes the night before (something I like about crepes is you can make them in advance) they were a little delicate.  I need to look for a better buckwheat crepe recipe, one that tears less.

P1220530

The filling takes onions and mushrooms (supposed to be shitake mushrooms but one of my guests isn’t a big fan of shitakes) and sauté.  Pull that out of the pan then cook the chicken, which has been cubed and dusted in flour to help thicken the mixture.  I deviated from the recipe a bit and marinated the chicken breasts in soy sauce and sake to give it a bit more flavor.  Then you clear the pan again and sauté the apples, finally adding everything together with some pre-cooked and crumbled pancetta.  I substituted regular smoked bacon.  Add some chicken broth and cook for a few minutes until the liquid is reduced.  I finished up with some parsley and salt and pepper to taste. 

P1220540

The filling process this morning was easy enough – a small scoop of the chicken mixture then fold like a burrito, tucking snugly into the dish.

P1220541

Nice colors, huh?  The spots are on the “second” side of the crepes whereas the lines that look like the surface of the moon are from the first side on which the crepes are cooked.  I mixed it up a bit so there would be more visual interest.

P1220542

The original recipe has no sauce on top and you just sprinkle cheese and bake.  This seemed a bit dry so I made a roasted red bell pepper cream sauce and poured that on first.  Almost any time I have the oven on I go ahead and roast some peppers.  They store  nicely in the fridge and add a wonderful flavor to many dishes.  The sauce was easy to pull together and the flavor and color brightened the overall dish.

P1220545

The finished dish turned out very nicely and with twelve crepes would have been enough to serve at least six people.  In fact, given how filling buckwheat flour is, one crepe per person would have been fine!

P1220546

With those two dishes anchoring the meal, all I needed was a nice salad to round things out.  I went for a Greek style salad with cucumbers, tomatoes, bell peppers, and the rest of the kalmata olives, all tossed in olive oil and basil and served on a bed of greens.

P1220550

Served with a glass of Argentine Viognier, it proved to be a very satisfying meal.  A nice accompaniment to the pleasant company!

I hope your Sunday was great, too.

February in the Kitchen

I thought I’d share with you some of the cooking I’ve done so far this month.  It has been a busy month so nothing terribly elaborate and no videos of my cooking, but some interesting meals have come together in addition to the third (and successful) attempt at macarons!

Cornmeal Crepes with Ricotta and Ham

The first dish was a Cornmeal Crepes recipe from Gourmet magazine.  Cornmeal crepes (in fact, just about any type of crepe) are pretty easy to make and since you can make the crepes themselves in advance and then assemble them later, they are a pretty convenient dish for a weeknight dinner.

P1220350

While I do have a crepe pan, I actually can’t use it because it isn’t compatible with my induction heating stove.  No worries, though, as a good nonstick skillet actually works every bit as nicely as a crepe pan.  This means that if you don’t have a crepe pan, you don’t have an excuse not to make crepes

The filling of the crepes is a mixture of ricotta cheese and ham.  The locally produced ricotta we have here in Thailand is oddly dry and chalky, more like smooth feta than the creamier ricotta I’ve had elsewhere.  Because of this, the filling was a bit dry when baked, even with the addition of egg and cheese.

P1220351

The individual crepes are filled and instead of placing them in a large ovenproof dish, I used these little individual-size serving dishes.  Very “airplane kitchen” of me…  I covered and baked the dishes until the filling was bubbling hot and then topped the crepes with a stir-fry mixture of corn, spring onions and asparagus, with a few shreds of Parmesan cheese.  The asparagus wasn’t in the original recipe, but I couldn’t resist.  Ham and asparagus is a great flavor combination.

 

Polenta with Mushrooms and Fontina Cheese (Kind of)

One of my favorite food blogs is Joanne Choi’s “Week of Menus”.  She’s a friend of a high school friend, a working mother whose children have a variety of food allergies.  She’s also an avid foodie and good cook.  As you can imagine, she’s juggling multiple priorities and her recipes do a great job of balancing cooking from scratch with good flavor with healthy ingredients that avoid many common allergens. 

Polenta (coarse corn meal – a.k.a. grits) is a favorite of mine that I had not prepared in a while.  Joanne’s original menu is basically sauteed onion and mushrooms baked on top of polenta with a healthy smothering of fontina cheese.

P1220364

Unable to control myself, I started improvising, adding the rest of the asparagus from the crepe recipe along with a bell pepper.

P1220366

These were nicely fried up until just starting to get tender.  I then poured the polenta into a pot of boiling milk and water, stirring at to thicken.  A few minutes later I noticed a lot of little brown specks floating in the liquid.  “That’s strange,” I thought, trying to figure out what spice I had added that could be floating there.  Nutmeg?  Cinnamon?  No, I hadn’t added anything, I realized.  They were little bugs.

One of the frustrations with buying imported food products here in Thailand is that sometimes the grains and dried goods come with extra protein.  This happens from time to time, I know, and in most countries and in most parts of the population, people probably just deal with it. 

While I did consider for a moment whether there would be any ramifications for eating the polenta with the extra protein, I decided against it.  So I grabbed some pasta from the cupboard and boiled it up, doing a last-minute substitution of starches.

P1220371

The end result was a perfectly nice dish.  You’ll see I added some chopped prosciutto.  The problem with the pasta is that when you mix it with the fried vegetables (with no sauce), the vegetables kind of fall through to the bottom of the dish!  It tasted fine but didn’t work the same as it would have with polenta.  Well, I’ve bought a new bag of polenta and we’ll try again one of these days soon!

P1220369

With the polenta… er, pasta… dinner we had a few sliced of whole wheat bread I had baked.  I’m ever-happier with my breads and think they are not only really tasty but they look great, too.

 

Garlic Scallion Noodles

Another of Joanne’s recipes I wanted to try was Garlic Scallion Noodles.  Being of Korean heritage, she makes many dishes that employ traditional Korean flavors: garlic, ginger, scallions, soy sauce… all of which are very yummy.  The noodles were very easy – boil pasta and toss in a sauce of butter, soy sauce, sake (or mirin), scallions, garlic and a little brown sugar.  I would have added some slivers of ginger and some more garlic, but that’s just me.

P1220429

The noodles lent themselves nicely to some Ginger Soy Chicken, which has an excellent an easy marinade.  You can either pan-fry the chicken, grill it on the barbecue, or use the broiled in your oven to lend an indoor barbecue flavor.  The meat stays so moist that even if you give the outside a good char, you can scarcely dry out the meat!

 

Blueberry Oat Scones

Tawn had been wanting to make some scones for a long time now.  While I regularly bake buttermilk biscuits which a former London-born roommate of mine said were just the same as her grandmother’s scones, I don’t usually make proper scones.  The difference is mostly in the fat used.  My biscuits use Crisco vegetable shortening, which lends a very flaky texture to the bread.  Scones, on the other hand, are made with butter, which results in a more crumbly texture. 

I tried the recipe from Martha Stewart’s Baking cookbook for oat and dried apricot scones, omitting the apricots and instead using frozen blueberries.

P1220438 P1220440

Mix together oats, all-purpose flour, whole wheat flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda and salt.  Then cut in chilled butter until it forms coarse crumbs.

P1220441 P1220447

“Coarse crumbs” is a relative term, but I look for pieces of flour-coated butter about the size of a green pea.  Then mix in the liquid: buttermilk blended with an egg.  The resulting dough is very wet, perhaps a bit more wet than I would have expected.  Folk in your blueberries, currants, raisins, dried apricots, or whatever else at this point.

P1220449

Working on a well floured board, form a circle about 1.25 inches (3 cm) thick and cut into wedges.  I could have made these a little narrower pieces.  Then you arrange the pieces on a parchment lined sheet and freeze them, covered, for at least an hour.  Not having the space in my freezer, I refrigerated them, which resulted in dough that spread more during baking than anticipated.

P1220453

Before baking in a 375 F / 185 C oven, brush with a cream and egg yolk mixture (I substituted buttermilk for the cream) and sprinkle with coarse sugar.  It took about 30-35 minutes to make the scones.  They turned out really tasty although I’m going to fiddle with the recipe.  I think a butter-shortening mix would be better as I like scones that are flaky and not just crumbly.

So that’s the cooking thus far this month.  I’ll probably return to both the polenta and crepe recipes and try them again this week to see if with bug-free polenta and creamier ricotta the results will be more in line with what I expected.

Here’s to your good eating!

 

Third Attempt at Macarons

Last May I learned how to make French macarons, the delicate sandwich cookies that are mostly meringue and almond flour.  The first attempt, while being a fun party as our friend Pat tried to teach us, didn’t turn out all that well.  The second attempt was better and I made a funny video in the process.  The third attempt this past Sunday finally encountered some success.

This time I used a different recipe, one that does not involve making an Italian meringue and then folding it into the almond flour mixture.  This helped a great deal because Italian meringues are a pain in the neck to make.

P1220306 P1220313

As you can see from the uncooked macarons on the left, they were much thicker and didn’t spread.  I attribute this to having left the egg whites in the refrigerator, uncovered, for two days before using them.  This allowed more water to evaporate and allowed for a more substantial whipped egg whites.  This means that the batter didn’t spread and so the cookies were thicker.

The finished macarons, right, have the signature “foot” around the base, caused when they rise.  This happened because I turned the air conditioning on well before starting baking, reducing the humidity in my condo.  This allowed the batter surface to form a dry skin within an hour so as the cookie baked the solid surface lifted and created the foot.

The other thing that turned out right: I let the cookies cool on the parchment.  That way, the bottoms of the cookies, which are very delicate, didn’t crush and expose the semi-hollow interior.  That’s another key step.

P1220317

They also had a nice sheen to them.  I’m not sure what caused that – probably the drying before baking.  This is a green tea macaron (no artificial coloring) with a passion fruit buttercream filling (a little artificial coloring).  The buttercream didn’t end up as thick as I’d like, so there’s still one more thing I have to master.

Still, I’m glad I have found a less labor-intensive way to make these and have mastered them.

 

New Year’s Cinnamon Rolls

Perhaps I have my timeline wrong because now that I think about it, these may have been New Year’s Eve breakfast cinnamon rolls.  Nonetheless, we started our morning with a pan of cinnamon rolls that were mighty tasty, especially with a tangy orange zest and buttermilk icing. 

My great-grandmother, a woman of stout German heritage, made cinnamon rolls regularly.  These were yeast rolls which required more time and advance planning.  I’m quite keen on a recipe from Cooks Illustrated that uses as its base a baking powder biscuit dough.  You mix the dough, roll it out, add the topping then roll it up, cut it and bake it.  Easy.

P1210618.JPG

The ingredient for this recipe are pretty simple.  The cinnamon-sugar filling is 5.25 oz of brown sugar, 1.75 oz of granulated sugar, 2 teaspoons cinnamon, 1/8 teaspoon each ground cloves and salt, and 1 tablespoon of melted butter.  You can modify the sugar and spices a bit if you would like to achieve a different flavor profile or level of sweetness.  For example, you could add some nutmeg or cut back on the sugar a little.

The biscuit dough is 12.5 oz all-purpose flour, 2 tablespoons granulated sugar, 1.25 teaspoons baking powder, 0.5 teaspoons baking soda, 0.5 teaspoon salt, 1.25 cups buttermilk and 6 tablespoons melted unsalted butter.

P1210622.JPG

Mix the sugar and spices together and then add the one tablespoon butter, stirring until it forms the consistency of wet sand.

P1210625.JPG

Mix the dry ingredients for the dough together.  Pour 2 tablespoons of the melted butter into the buttermilk, whisking to distribute the butter into little drops throughout the buttermilk.  Pour this liquid mixture into the dry ingredients.

P1210628.JPG

Stir together until just combined.  The dough will be wet and tacky.

P1210632.JPG

Turn the dough onto a floured board and knead just a few times until it becomes smooth and is no longer shaggy.

P1210634.JPG

Using your hands, pat the dough into a 12 by 9 inch rectangle.  Brush the remaining butter onto the dough leaving a small gap at the edges.

P1210637.JPG

Evenly sprinkle the cinnamon-sugar mixture across the dough, leaving a border around the edge.   You can use less than the entire amount of the mixture if you don’t want the rolls to be as sweet.  You can also add chopped nuts and raisins or other dried fruit at this point.  I used pecans and black and golden raisins.

P1210639.JPG

Working with a bench scraper or spatula, start rolling the dough along the long side, pressing down to make the roll pretty tight.  This helps hold the filling in place.  As you get to the final edge, brush a little more melted butter along the edge to help it hold firmly.  Pinch the edges shut and gently smooth the log so it is uniform in size.

P1210642.JPG

Cut the log into nine equally sized slices.

P1210644.JPG

Carefully place each slice in a buttered nonstick cake pan.  Place the first slice in the center and distribute the remaining slices around the first one like flower petals.  You can brush the tops of the rolls with any remaining butter and sprinkle on any leftover filling or filling that fell out on the cutting board.

Bake in a preheated 425 F oven for about 25 minutes or until edge are golden brown. After loosening the edges with a spatula and allowing to rest for two or three minutes, slide onto a greased cooling rack without separating.  I found it easier, though, to invert them onto a plate and then invert them again onto a second plate or serving platter.  Otherwise the buns wanted to fall apart.  Wait five more minutes before icing.

P1210646.JPG

While the rolls are baking, prepare a cream cheese icing.  The icing is 2 tablespoons of softened cream cheese, 2 tablespoons buttermilk, some orange zest and 4 oz confectioner’s sugar, whisked together.

P1210650.JPG

Drizzle the icing onto the rolls, as much or as little as you desire.  These are best eaten while warm but they tasted pretty good upon reheating later in the day, too.

P1210659.JPG

The finished product!  Beautiful, isn’t it?  With some fresh fruit it makes for a pretty healthy (well, almost) start to the day.

P1210655.JPG

There we are with our New Year’s Eve day breakfast.  A sweet end to the old year!

 

New Year’s Eve

After four days up in Chiang Mai and having sent our houseguest Stephanie on her way back to Melbourne, let me return to New Year’s Eve and catch you up on events.

New Year’s Eve is a big event here in Thailand.  In fact, unlike for many companies in the United States, New Year’s Eve is a statutory holiday here, as is New Year’s Day.  Tawn’s extended family, much of which lives in properties adjacent to his parents’, hold a big annual party to ring in the new year.  Tawn was there for most of the afternoon, returning home about 11 pm to celebrate the stroke of midnight with Stephanie and me.

This left Stephanie and me to our own devices for most of the evening.  Instead of venturing out – crowds and the threat of bombs! – we stayed at home and had a low-key dinner of homemade pizza, salad and chocolate souffles.

P1210693.JPG

The pizza was pepperoni, mushrooms and red peppers, something simple and satisfying to munch on.

P1210691.JPG

A mixed greens salad with plenty of toppings increased the healthfulness of the meal.  Then we took a turn for the cardiac unit (no, wait – chocolate has antioxidants, right?) with the souffles.

This was not my first time using this recipe from Cook’s Illustrated Best Make-Ahead Recipes.  The secret is that you can make souffles in advance, wrap them well (uncooked) then freeze them.  Then, when you want a hot souffle all you have to do is take it out of the freezer and slip it into a hot oven.  Twenty five minutes later you’ll have dessert on the table.

P1210667.JPG

The ingredients: chocolate, confectioner’s sugar and granulated sugar, egg yolks, egg whites, cream of tartar, salt, vanilla and a bit of orange liqueur.

P1210672.JPG P1210675.JPG

Melt the chocolate and butter in a bowl set over simmering water.  Beat the egg yolks into the granulated sugar.

P1210677.JPG P1210679.JPG

Continue whipping the yolks and sugar until the mixture triples in volume.  Gentle fold the chocolate and egg mixture together until just incorporated.

P1210680.JPG P1210681.JPG

Whip the egg whites, adding a bit of cream of tartar and then a bit of confectioner’s sugar, until they form stiff peaks.

P1210682.JPG P1210684.JPG

Gently fold the egg whites into the chocolate mixture until mixed, being careful not to deflate.  Spoon into ramekins that have been buttered and sprinkled with granulated sugar.  Fill to the top and then cover with plastic wrap and then foil.  Refrigerate for up to three hours or freeze.  When ready, remove the wrappings and bake on a tray in the oven for about 25 minutes or until the interior is still slightly soft.

P1210697.JPG

Remove and dust with confectioner’s sugar.  Some berries or a berry sauce are nice, too!

P1210695.JPG

Above, Stephanie and I toast our New Year’s Eve dinner.  Would have been nice to have Tawn home with us, but he was back in time for the fireworks.

While it is a bit more than a week late, let me wish you all the very best for 2010.  May each of you enjoy good health, great happiness and boundless peace.

 

Thai Style Pumpkin Soup and Cranberry-Beet Relish

To catch you up on some of the recent culinary delights that have come out of my kitchen (well, culinary attempts, at least…) here is an update on two different dishes.

The first was a Thai-style pumpkin soup made after Tawn requested that we have some soup for dinner one evening.  I didn’t follow a particular recipe with this one but just pulled it together by taste.  

Base ingredients: pumpkin, butternut squash, onions, carrots, celery, chicken stock.
Aromatic ingredients: lemongrass, galangal root (similar to ginger but less harsh), bay leaves, curry powder, cayenne pepper.
Finishing ingredients: fish sauce, coconut cream, palm or brown sugar.
Optional ingredients for garnishing: bacon, cilantro, sour cream or parmesan cheese.

Here’s a picture of the finished product, which tasted wonderful.

P1210025.JPG

Coupled with a video that shows the whole “making of”.

 

The second dish is a cranberry-beet relish that I made for our potluck Thanksgiving over at Vic’s house.  I stumbled across several recipes for this and so improvised a bit. 

P1210042.JPG

Sautee a chopped onion and then add the cranberries, stirring for a few minutes but not cooking so much that they begin to pop.

P1210044.JPG

Add shredded raw beets – this would actually be gorgeous with golden beets – and cook a while longer until the mixture softens.

P1210045.JPG

For flavoring add the zest and juice of two oranges.

P1210051.JPG

Sweeten to taste with maple syrup.  The natural sugars in the beets offset much of the tartness from the cranberries, so I find that you don’t need much maple syrup.  If needed, add a little bit of salt to the mixture.

P1210055.JPG

Let cook until at a nice consistency.  Since I like to still have some whole berries left, I reserve about a cup of berries and add them later in the cooking process so they don’t pop before the relish is done.  This turned out as a very nice alternative to regularly cranberry relish and several diners commented that while they don’t normally enjoy cranberry relish, they particularly liked this recipe.

 

Frosting a Cake

Never one to shy away from publicizing my failures, missteps and adventures in the kitchen, I decided on Monday to film my attempt at frosting a layer cake.  Having only done this a few times before, it was … quite a production.  But as long as I can learn lessons from the experience (and eat the mistakes!) then that’s the important thing, right?

The cake turned out looking okay, if a little lopsided.

The reason for the cake was my birthday, which I share with several other people.  I celebrated in conjunction with Jason, an Australian friend who turned thirty this year.

Our little dinner party group.  From left to right:Benji, Matt, Kobfa, me, Jason, Bundit, Zenya and Tawn.

Jason and I have blown out the candles and prepare to cut the cake.  Speaking of the September Issue, you can probably tell that one of us is a bit more of the fashionista.

Oh, the sad thing is that I made a mango coulis to go with this, poured it into a squeeze bottle and placed the bottle into the refrigerator to chill, subsequently forgetting to serve it with the cake.  D’oh!

Finally Success with Buttermilk Parmesan Biscuits

After a few attempts at making Buttermilk Parmesan Biscuits to serve as little brunch sandwiches, I finally arrived at a recipe I like.  May I share it with you?  The original attempts, based on a recipe shared with me by W, resulted in very soft, somewhat oily spoon-drop biscuits, shown below.

P1190805.JPG

For subsequent attempts, I reverted to using my favorite buttermilk biscuit recipe as a starting point, based on a recipe my mother gave to me.  Finally, I got the recipe to a point I’m happy with for a brunch this past weekend.  I made little round scrambled eggs with some fried pancetta on top, added some spinach leaves and made a biscuit sandwich out of them.

P1200317.JPG

I bought a pair of non-stick steel rings to form the eggs.  A few chopped green onions and some cream cheese mixed in with the eggs make them nice and tasty.  The pancetta was from the market, sliced thin to order and then fried for just a few minutes to crisp it up.

P1200326.JPG

The end result were these lovely, flaky sandwiches.  The only thing I forgot was to add some chopped green onions to the biscuits themselves.  Here is the recipe for the biscuits.  I’ll let you figure out the sandwich part on your own.  You can also use smoked salmon as a filling instead of pancetta.

 

Buttermilk Parmesan Biscuits
Makes 10 biscuits (more or less, depending on cutter size)

1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 cup cornmeal
1 Tbsp baking powder
1 tsp baking soda
1 tsp salt
1 tsp granulated sugar
1/3 cup vegetable shortening, chilled
2 Tbsp butter, chilled
3/4 cup shredded Parmesan cheese
3/4 cup buttermilk
2 Tbsp minced green onions (optional)

Preheat the oven to 425 F.

Combine dry ingredients in a bowl and thoroughly mix.  Cut the butter and shortening into the dry ingredients, forming pea-size crumbs.

Combine the shredded Parmesan cheese into the mixture, ensure that it is evenly distributed.

Make a well in the center of the dry ingredients and pour in the buttermilk.  Mix with a fork until combined.  Be careful not to over-mix; the goal is to make sure the ingredients are just combined.  If desired, mix in the minced green onions.

Turn the dough onto a lightly floured board and fold the dough over on itself five or six times, forming layers.  Pat the dough to an even thickness of about 3/4 inch (you can make it thinner or thicker depending on how thick you want your biscuits to be) and use a biscuit cutter to cut the biscuits.  When you cut the biscuits, don’t twist the cutter.  This seals the edges of the biscuits and retards their rise in the oven.  Better to just cut by pressing straight down.

Place biscuits on a baking sheet (no need to oil it although you can use parchment paper if you like) and bake immediately in a 425 F over for 10-12 minutes until golden brown.  Remove from oven and serve while still hot.

Notes:

You can substitute 1/2 cup of the unbleached flour with whole wheat flour for a healthier, whole grain biscuit.  They won’t puff up quite as much so row them a little thicker than you otherwise would. 

If you don’t have buttermilk available, you can substitute regular milk.  Before you make the biscuits, take 3/4 c of milk less one tablespoon, and mix in one tablespoon of white vinegar.  Let sit for ten minutes and then stir.  The milk will have thickened a bit, producing a similar texture and taste to buttermilk.

Enjoy!  Feedback always welcome.

 

Italian Almond Cake

After a few attempts at baking macarons, my refrigerator still holds a good supply of almond flour.  How to use it?  How about some Italian almond cake?  This rich, dense cake uses ground almonds instead of flour, making it gluten-free.  The seven eggs make it even richer.

Unfortunately, the recipe calls for a 9-10 inch springform pan.  I didn’t realize that my springform pan is only 8 inches.  This caused an unanticipated problem.  The cake was supposed to finish baking in about 30-40 minutes.  After 50 minutes, a toothpick inserted into the center of the cake was still coming out with uncooked dough attached.

The cake was so deep that it wasn’t cooking through!

P1200310.JPG

I finally gave up and pulled the cake out of the oven at an hour and ten minutes.  After letting it cool, I sliced it open and, sure enough, the center was still very dense and not entirely cooked.  The outside edge was a bit overdone.

P1200313.JPG

Serving it up with some fresh mango, the cake was still tasty, but I had to eat around the undercooked part.  I’ll have to try an alternate recipe, maybe one that makes use of a little flour.  I’ll also have to either not fill the pan so high or will need to buy a larger springform pan.

 

Pulled Pork Butt

Hankering for some barbecue but lacking the proper facilities, I decided to instead make pulled pork butt.  This painstakingly slow (but, oh, so simple) technique produces wonderfully flavorful and tender meat, perfect for piling on a toasted french baguette and eating as a sandwich.

Original recipes I considered were for mighty large crowds – feeding six or seven was considered a small number!  Thankfully, recipes like this scale up and down pretty well, so I went to the butcher and bought the smallest pork butt I could find. 

Pork Butt.jpg Let’s take a moment to be clear: pork butt is not the same as pork ass.  The butt is actually the upper shoulder from the hog, a wonderfully well-marbled cut that works beautifully for “low and slow” cooking.  That is, cooking at a relatively low heat and a relatively long time.  Think Crock Pot and you’ve got the idea.

Unfortunately, the butcher did not have the bone-in butt, only boneless.  I think cooking the butt with the bone in is nicer.  There is more flavor and the bone serves as a conduit to direct heat into the center of the roast, reducing cooking time.

Pork in Thailand is significantly more flavorful than the bland “other white meat” that American animal factories produce.  Nonetheless, it still benefits from an overnight bath in a brine, a solution of salt, sugar and spices dissolved in water.

The next day I rinsed the pork shoulder and patted it dry, covering it with a spice rub that contained cinnamon, cumin, cardamom and chili powder along with a bit of salt, brown sugar and black pepper.  Searing the butt on all sides in my Dutch oven, I then added some cooking liquid (red wine, beef stock and onions), slapped a cover on it, and put it in my oven at 280 F / 145 C. 

It took about five hours for my relatively small roast to reach an internal temperature of 220 F / 105 C.  “220 degrees!?” you’ll exclaim, “But pork only has to be cooked to 160 and already it risks drying out.”

Roasts, which are filled with fat and connective tissues, will be very tough if you take them out of the oven at 160 F.  However, if you keep on cooking (with liquid – remember we brined the butt overnight and also have some liquid in the pot), as the temperature passes 200 F the connective tissues and fat dissolve.  This makes the meat so tender that it literally falls apart as you handle it.  This also bastes the meat in the fat and juices from the dissolved connective tissues.

Taking the pot out of the oven, I let the butt sit in the covered pot until its internal temperature had reduced to 170 F / 76 C before putting the meat on the cutting board and shredding it with two forks.

As you can see, it pulled apart into very nice little shreds.  This makes the perfect vehicle for various types of dressing.  In the Carolinas, a vinegar-based dressing would be the flavor of choice.  In the midwest and Texas, the dressing will be tomato based and sweeter.  In this case, I used a combination of some of the leftover cooking liquid (the red wine giving it a more acidic note, similar to the vinegar-based dressing) and a little bit of KC Masterpiece barbecue sauce that was sitting in the fridge.

P1200308.JPG

How to serve this pulled pork?  I think it is best as a sandwich.  Split and toast a length of a French roll or baguette, spread with mayonnaise, pile on the pork, add some roasted red peppers (and grilled onions, if you like), garnish with dill pickles, barbecue sauce and, if you like, mozzarella cheese.  Then put the whole thing under the broiler for a few minutes to crisp up nicely.

That’s good eating!