Airport Link Now Fully Up and Running

In June I wrote about my first ride on the Bangkok Airport Rail Link (ARL), which spent the past few months running a limited test service.  The line has both a local and express service, the express promising to move you from the airport to the center of the city in fifteen minutes.  The trial run for the past few months, though, only featured the local service.  Two weeks ago the express portion was brought on line and the system was officially opened, so I went for another ride to check it out.

Now that all the stations were in operation, I decided to ride the express from the Makkasan terminal station (located near Asoke between Rama IX Expressway and Petchaburi Roads) nonstop to the airport, and then ride the local service back to Phaya Thai station, where the ARL connects with the BTS Skytrain.

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Back in June one problem I noticed was that the ARL station (on the right in the picture) didn’t physically connect with the BTS station (on the far left).  In fact, there was a gap of a good 5 meters, meaning that you had to walk down the stairs from one station, along the road, across the train tracks, and then ascend an escalator into the other station.  Not convenient at all – especially for someone with suitcases!

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I’m glad to report that on opening day, they had a connector bridge just barely finished (work was still underway but a narrow walkway was opened through it) that takes you from the paid area of the BTS station (in the background) to the public area of the ARL station (in the foreground).  The operator of the BTS has added fare gates and a ticket window so you can enter and exit the station conveniently, walking directly to the ARL station.

Amazing, but true – there was some amount of advance planning and coordination between the agencies!

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Unfortunately, I can’t say the same for the Makkasan Station, a beautiful, modern facility that is meant to offer the convenience of checking in for your flight at the station, checking your bags, and then being able to whisk off to the airport without the worry of lugging your suitcases with you.

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The station is set back some 200 meters (650 feet) from Asoke Road, a heavily congested north-south artery, and some 500 meters from the Petchaburi MRTA subway station exit.  Despite more than three years of construction, there is no direct pedestrian access between the MRTA and ARL and no vehicular ramps connecting the station to the southbound (inbound to the city) side of Asoke.

Illustration as to why this is a problem:

As I was walking from the subway station to the ARL station, a very pedestrian unfriendly route, I came across a family of travelers, pulling their suitcases from the ARL station.  I asked where they were heading, ready to give directions, and they were looking for a taxi.  Of course, the driveways weren’t open and no taxi queue was up and running, so they had to walk the 200 meters to the street and try to flag a taxi down.  To top it off, the taxi would be going the opposite direction from where they were headed.

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Open building but no taxis or any other traffic allowed up to the facility.

A week after the ARL opened, the State Railways of Thailand, which owns and operates the system, announced they would build an elevated pedestrian walkway to the subway station and would build ramps so cars could access the station from all directions.  Give them two years and then things might work better.

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The State Railways owns a huge tract of land around the Makkasan station, what used to be their main switch yards and maintenance facility.  Their grand vision is to eventually develop all of this – enough room for 20 or more skyscrapers – into a large mixed-use facility of offices, hotels, convention center, shopping, and maybe some residential.  At that point in time, it would be conveniently located.  Until then, it is not really near much of the city.

In fact, that is probably the reason they chose to make Makkasan station the in-city terminal.  They stand to make a lot of money (and maybe, for the first time in 50+ years, turn a profit?) from land development.  The obvious place for the in-city terminal would have been Phaya Thai station, adjacent to the BTS Skytrain.  Better synergy with the transit systems.

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The express train to the airport is quite nice.  The station is air conditioned and well signed, if lacking in taxis.  The trains run every fifteen minutes and the cars are comfortable with forward and rear facing seats, luggage racks, and overhead storage for small items.  The train is also very fast – top speeds supposedly of 150 kmh, but I think it is more like 120 most of the way.

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A view of the roads leading from the highway to the airport as we zoom past, arriving exactly fifteen minutes after leaving Makkasan.

My assessment: The system is a very welcome addition to the transit network here in Bangkok.  The local line, which connects from the airport directly to the Skytrain with six intermediate stops, is very useful and will probably do a lot of business, what with the rapidly-expanding suburbs to the east of the city.  The airport express itself isn’t useful as you pay more and wind up at a station that isn’t convenient to anything.  My advice – if you are arriving in the city and want to use the train, use the local line.  Or, if there are more than two of you, take a taxi.  In another two or three years, once the connections to the Makkasan station have been built and it is more convenient, I might revise my opinion.

 

Changing Landscape

This morning I went for a bicycle ride, enjoying the breezy weather and using the opportunity to see what’s changing in Wattana, the larger district in which Tawn and I live.  This area, with its large expat and middle-class Thai population, is forever changing.  In what used to be the outskirts of town forty years ago, well-off Thai families built their weekend homes here along the canals and fruit orchards.

The canals and orchards have long since passed with condos, restaurants and spas taking the place of the 1960s style modern Thai family homes.  One of these homes, located in the property to the north of our condo, has just been torn down.  The condo’s management has checked with the district office to see what is planned for the property but no plans have been submitted yet.

Interestingly, most of the demolition was done by a team of a half-dozen laborers.  It was only shortly after the point shown above that a machine was brought in to tear down the final walls.  The result, weeks and weeks the sound of breaking glass, cracking concrete and tearing wood.  Made it a bit hard to record audio for some training programs I was working on.

Something I noticed from our side of the property was that a poster of His Majesty the King, something that pretty much all Thais put on a wall in their house or place of business, was still attached to the wall even as demolition commenced.  Is that kosher to do?

At the end of our soi (the small alleys that branch off the main roads) another large property has been cleared and construction fencing erected.  According to the sign posted on the front of it, a seven-floor condo is being built there.  More neighbors.

Riding through the Wattana neighborhood, I spotted several interesting things.  On Sukhumvit Soi 33, which is in an entertainment area geared largely for the Japanese community, I noticed this massage parlor.  Based on the various massage services offered (“Lady of the Night Massage”?) I would assume that it isn’t the most legitimate place to find practitioners of traditional therapeutic Thai massage.

My riding took me up along the train tracks that run parallel to Petchaburi Road.  For four years now the Airport Express (“red line”) elevated rail line has been under construction.  Bear in mind that the airport itself opened three years ago.  Word is that it will be running either in April or August of next year.  As most of the physical construction is complete, the frontage roads that parallel the tracks of the traditional railroad (the red line being built above the right-of-way for the regular train) has been rebuilt after having been shut down during construction.

There is a lot of housing built adjacent to the train tracks.  I’m sorry for the people who live there; I’m sure the noise of construction was terrible and the noise of the trains not much better.

I was able to follow the train tracks about 8 kms to the east of my house to the Hua Mark station (just shy of halfway to the airport) before the paved road runs out.  I then turned around and pedaled back, overshooting my house and going to the main in-city Makkasan station, located at Asoke Road.

This is the Ramhamhaeng station located at Sukhumvit Soi 71.  Oddly, there are a dozen parking spaces under the station, wholly inadequate for any actual parking needs.  Also interesting: at all of the stations there are escalators that will run only in the up direction.  The tracks are four to five stories above ground but passengers will have to descend manually.

When I made it to the main Makkasan station, I pedaled into the construction gate and asked the guard if I could ride around.  Not surprisingly, he didn’t think that would be a good idea despite the fact that the roads are all paved and perfectly safe to ride on.

Some other sights: the Terminal 21 building, about which I wrote a few weeks ago, is making quick progress now that all the foundation and underground work is done.  I’ve started shooting weekly pictures of the progress so that in the end I have a record of this building, which is rising at the corner of Sukhumvit and Asoke Roads.  Anyone need another nine-story mall, cinema, office building and service apartment?  Good, you’ll be glad to know a new one is being built for you.

Passing another construction project on Ekkamai Road, I was tickled that the contractor made an effort to put the sign in English.  Normally I have to practice reading Thai but this one was very clear.  The project is to “make new restaurant.”  Now, we’re not going to tell you what restaurant it is.  That’s a secret.