Jet Lag Hits Tawn, Who Turns the Other Cheek

It is amazing how jet lag affects people differently.  On my first night here I took a sleeping pill, slept fairly well through the night, and have largely been able to function on a normal schedule ever since.  Sure, I’ve woken up a few times in the night and have had to wait twenty or thirty minutes to fall back asleep, but other than that I’ve had no ill effects.

Tawn, on the other hand, has had a hard time adjusting – both to the new time zone as well as the hectic schedule-a-go-go that we’ve been running.  By Sunday afternoon he was starting to hit some rough patches and my Monday morning, he was dragging.  We called off several appointments on Monday and he used the time to rest.  The symptoms, which seemed almost like a cold, abated enough by late afternoon that we were able to get over to my aunt and uncle’s for dinner.

Hopefully, he’ll be fully back to speed soon because we travel to Kansas City on Tuesday.

A few more bits and pieces of our schedule:

Saturday morning we went to the Ferry Building for brunch at Boulette’s Larder, one of my favorite places to eat.  Truth be told, the food (which was very high quality) didn’t wow me as much as previously, although the Christmas Spice beignets were spectacular.  Good ambience and company, though, as we were joined by Stuart, who was in from Bangkok, and his local friend Rupert. 

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Not sure why I managed to crop the beignets differently from the rest of the food pictures…  But from upper left clockwise: Christmas Spice beignets, poaches eggs on polenta with braised beef, seafood platter with smoked salmon, grilled tuna and crab cakes, and sweet Maine shrimp scramble with arugula.

Afterwards we explored the Ferry Building for a bit, finding some interesting items:

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Grow your own oyster mushrooms.  A sawdust block impregnated with the fungus that produces oyster mushrooms.  Will grow several pounds of mushrooms over a few weeks if properly maintained.  The gift that you can’t live without!

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A bakery – the first I’ve seen – that makes French macarons without food coloring!  Yes, the lemon ones (not pictured) look like most of the other flavors and chocolate is the only flavor you can identify by sight, but I really like that they aren’t so artificially colored.  Plus, they use a coarser almond flour that really gives the confections a chewier texture.

Heading back to the Embarcadero, we received a message from Anita that most of the high school gang was gathering for dim sum at Rincon Center.  This was only two blocks away so we stopped by but didn’t eat anything.  Since our plates were empty, our “nephews” – Devin, Maximo and Joaquin – decided we would be fun to play with.

Below, Maximo smiles sweetly while his brother manages to almost tip over two tea cups.

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Above, Uncle Tawn with Joaquin, Devin and “Ultra Man” Maximo at Rincon Center.

After a few hours of visiting, we returned home and Tawn was ready for a much-needed nap.  Lalima had thoughtfully arranged tickets for the San Francisco Ballet’s production of The Nutcracker.  The definitive North American production (SF Ballet introduced it to the continent in 1944), it was magical and a perfect holiday treat.

 

Party at Lily’s Mother’s House

P1120765 Saturday  morning we were up early and back at Tartine shortly after they opened.  No significant line and we were able to find a table inside. 

Sure, Tawn was freezing on the way over but once we arrived and he tried their amazing baked goods, he was in heaven. 

Left, Tawn sampling a variety of Tartine’s goods: brioche bread pudding with cranberries and apples, morning bun, ham and herb quiche, and croissant.

After eating our fill and enjoying some lattes, we walked across 18th street to Dolores Park.  The sun was now out, making the weather much more pleasant, and we climbed up the hill to take in the sweeping view of the city.

San Francisco is a city defined by its views and its food, both of which are impressive.  Here, Tawn and I posed for some portraits with the south of Market Street area in the background.

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We visited with Brad and Anne Marie, her parents, and of course their two talented daughters.  Brad grilled some fantastic tuna steaks.  Whoops – we were calling it “chicken” since the girls ostensibly don’t like fish.  Funny how much they enjoyed their grilled “chicken”.

P1120808.JPG In the afternoon, we headed back over to the Castro district and took a walk around before heading back to Anita’s.  The Harvey Milk biopic, “Milk”, is showing at the Castro Theatre for one final week before the sing-along “Sound of Music” returns. 

We would like to catch the film but I think it will end up showing in Khrungthep, so maybe there isn’t such a rush.  But the opportunity to see this film in the classic Castro Theatre, with its mighty Wurlitzer organ and the ambience of being located in the district where Harvey Milk rose to fame, seems like an opportunity that is a shame to miss.

Late afternoon, Paul drove us down to the South Bay for the holiday get-together of my high school friends.  After a brief stop at Restoration Hardware to look at table lamps, we arrived at Lilian’s mother’s house in Sunnyvale.  I haven’t been there in at least a decade and was impressed that I remembered the way.

Two years ago, Lilian and her mother (below) were in Thailand at the same time my parents were, aunt and uncles were.  The whole group of us – some dozen in all – went down to the school where I was volunteering.  We spent the first half of the day doing activities with the students, then the community made a huge lunch for us and took us on a tour of the province by canal boat.  Full story here.

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Lily’s mother has been looking for a way to thank us for that unique experience, so when she heard we were going to be in town, she told Lilian to invite everyone over for dinner.  So Lily’s mother made a HUGE dinner for us.  I only managed to get a few of the pictures, but we had prime rib of beef, noodles with chicken and greens, double-fried green beans, sea bass steamed with soy sauce and green onions, bok choy with oyster sauce, steamed salmon, fried rice, spaghetti with homemade sauce, and pot stickers.  Brad brought a great green salad, Paul made an artichoke dip, and we had some other things, too.  What a meal!

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Everyone was there.  For the first time, I was able to meet Samantha and Jimmy’s nephews, Maximo and Joaquin.  I’ve seen their pictures for years but had never actually met them.  So cute!  Plus, Lalima and Aaron were able to join us from LA with their son Devin, and of course Brad and Donna’s children were there, too.

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Left to right, standing: Paul, Darren, Lily, her mother, John, and me.  Seated on the sofa: Brad, Donna, Anita, Eric, Jimmy, Samantha, Lalima, Devin, and Aaron.  Seated on the floor: Evan, Cara, Tawn (with Joaquin in his lap), Albert and Maximo.

A few random pics from the party:

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Paul and Tawn chat in the living room.

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Jimmy manages to make prime rib look very disgusting as Lalima looks on.

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The boys work on decorating their Christmas Trees, left.  Right, Devin, Darren, Maximo and Joaquin show off the results of their project.

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Uncle Albert shows Maximo how to uncork a bottle of wine.

 

Food and Shopping

Our trip thus far – the first thirty-six hours – has been fun, mostly a mixture of food and shopping.  After arriving Thursday evening and eating dinner with Anita, we had a good first night’s sleep.  We left mid-morning in brisk weather and walked to Tartine, the excellent cafe at 18th and Guerrero.  Finding it with a line out the door, we turned around and walked back to Market Street, eating instead at the seventy-year old greasy spoon grill, It’s Tops.

This place is excellent.  I’m not sure why – they claim it is their grill – but the buttermilk pancakes have an amazing flavor.

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Two eggs, scrambled, with links and hotcakes.  Tawn went for an avocado omelet with home fries and buttered toast.  We had all the calories one needs for a day in a single meal.

P1120735 Afterwards, we headed to Discount Builders’ Supply to shop for cabinet knobs for our fireplace.  Lots of choices but nothing that caught out attention. 

Continuing down Mission Street we ended up at Union Square with a short list of things to locate. 

One of these was the Mario Batalli signature line of dutch ovens, available at Crate and Barrel.  They were selling the 4-quart model in lime green, a color they seem to be trying to clear out of inventory, for 30 dollars off the normal $89.95 price.  Considering that cast enamel dutch ovens go for $170 or more in Thailand, this seems like a good value. 

Right: Tawn in front of a flower stand near Macy’s Union Square.  I used to be very impressed with the flower stands in San Francisco but after seeing the flower shops in Bangkok, I’m not as “wowed” these days.

Below, Tawn in front of the Westin St. Francis Hotel.

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P1120745 After completing some errands we returned to Anita’s for a mid-afternoon rest.  Later in the afternoon we caught CalTrain down to San Mateo, where we had dinner at Ryan and Sabrina’s, a chance to see their newly remodeled kitchen.  Left to right: Chris, Tawn, Sabrina and Ryan.

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Left, Ryan and Sabrina take a dish of tofu off the stove.

It was really nice to enjoy a home-cooked meal.  Tawn and I were saying earlier in the day that we hoped our time in SF wasn’t just one restaurant meal after another.  As much as we enjoy the restaurants here, too many meals out means too many additional kilograms on the waist.

Here’s the elegant meal we enjoyed:

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The food was as tasty as it was beautiful and we had a really nice visit with Ryan and Sabrina.  As jet lag started to take its toll, Ryan drove us back to SF.  We arrived back only to find a trio of other house guests getting ready to head out to meet Anita for some event.  We were too tired to join and instead headed to bed.

Safe arrivals

In one of the smoothest gate to gate experiences I’ve had across the Pacific, thanks to high tail winds we made it from Bangkok to San Francisco in under 15 hours, 13 hours of which was on an airplane.  Considering the number of times it has taken 20 or more hours to make the trip, this was unbelievably smooth.  Kudos again to EVA Air for their smooth service and comfortable Elite Class “premium economy” product.

Oddly, I was able to get about five hours or restful sleep on the flight without the use of any sleeping aids, ear plugs or eye shades.  I must have really been tired, considering that I usually cannot sleep on planes very easily.

 

We arrived finding a chilly, damp San Francisco.  No surprises there.  After freshening up, we went with Anita (our host and former roommate) to Ti Couz, a Brittany-style creperie on 16th Street at Valencia.  For the sheet geekiness of it, all three of us used Anita’s blackberry to update our Facebook statuses with the same message.

With their hearty buckwheat crepes and a bowl of hard cider, we had full stomachs and some fire in our bellies, enough to ensure a good first night’s rest.

The next four days in the City by the Bay will be full.  As always, there’s a huge push to see as many friends as we can while taking care of some errands and, of course, remembering that we’re actually on holiday and could use some down time of our own.

Updates and pictures as we go…

 

Anticipatory Packing

I want to pack light, really I do.  I swear, I’ve packed light in the past.  When I traveled for business, I used to do an entire week from a 22″ roll-aboard.  When I was growing up, since my father worked for an airline and we always traveled standby, checked luggage was a rarity.  So I do know how to pack light.

But travel across the Pacific, from the home country to the old country, seems so much more complicated.  We have to pack large not so much to carry a lot of things to the US, but so that we have adequate space on the return to bring things that are difficult to find or tremendously expensive here in Thailand.  This means we have to pack with anticipation.

Here’s what is on our shopping list:

Dryer sheets, ravioli cutter, Williams Sonoma Mario Batali dutch oven, small ladles, replacement glass shade for Restoration Hardware sconce, olive oil, balsamic vinegar, dried cranberries, walnuts, pecans, dripless candles, picture rail.

Some of these will not come back.  None are critical and only the replacement sconce has already been purchased.  But if possible, most of these will return with us.  So the roll-aboards are nested in the checked suitcases, giving us several more cubic feet of storage for the return flight.

Meanwhile, we’re bringing the usual assortment of snacks, khanom (sweets), hostess gifts, and even though we’re supposedly doing a gift-free Christmas, some Christmas gifts for the nieces.  Oh, and two Williams Sonoma baking sheets that despite my measurements, are a hair too large to effectively use in my oven.  So my sister will inherit those.  Or my mom.

I will say that I’m doing better about the load of stuff I bring aboard the flight to entertain myself.  As much as I love sudoku, the sudoku book is staying home.  Several documents that I was certain I’d work on while flying are staying home as well, because I recognize that in reality, I’ll never get to them.  The deck of Uno cards is also staying.

The laptop is coming along for the ride, though.  No two ways about it.

We’ll be in San Francisco from the 18th until the 23rd, in Kansas City from the 23rd until the 31st, and in San Francisco again from the 31st until the 2nd.  Lots of people have indicated they’d like to get together while we’re in SF. 

This always creates the embarrassment of an abundance of riches.  We’d like to see everyone and wish we had a lot more time to do it in.  If we don’t have a chance to see you on this trip, our apologies and please do come visit us in Thailand!

 

Lea Loses Her Glass Slipper

Vacation starts tomorrow.  It is nearly 9 pm and I haven’t yet started packing.  “Why not?” asked Tawn when he called from work two hours ago.  Well, there’s been a lot to do.  I already know what I’m going to bring so I don’t feel like I need to pack before getting done some other priorities, like work.

Besides, our flight tomorrow isn’t until 5 pm so I have plenty of time.  Right?

Cinderella Last night we attended the opening night of Rodger and Hammerstein’s Cinderella starring Lea Salonga.  This is the stage version of the 1957 television special that R&H wrote specifically for Julie Andrews.  There are a couple of numbers that you can tell were written for her.

Befitting an opening night, the Muangthai Ratchadalai Theatre was packed with celebrities and members of high society.  The lobby had no shortage of TV cameras and paparazzi interviewing people and taking their pictures as they arrived in their fabulous gowns, etc.  Strangely, they did not stop me and Tawn.  Hmmm…

Compared with some of the other R&H musicals (think “South Pacific”, “The Sound of Music”, “Oklahoma” and “The King and I” – but if you’re in Thailand where the last show is banned, don’t think of it), Cinderella doesn’t deliver too many catchy tunes.  “In My Own Little Corner” and “A Lovely Night” are probably the only two I could hum right now.

Despite horrid over-amplification (the technical aspects of stagecraft are still a bit crude here), Salonga’s voice was beautiful.  She really is an amazing singer and able to deliver so much to a character.  If you haven’t seen her, get on over to Singapore where the show will run from January 2-22.

P1120697 Interesting spirit house, right.  The Ratchadalai Theatre is part of the Esplanade “Arte-tainment” complex on Ratchadapisek Road. 

Out back there are several night clubs.  The spirit house for these night clubs is a bit unusual: the statue is the form of a dancer.  In front are the words for the Hare Krishna chant, in both Thai and English:

Hare Krishna, Hare Krishna,

Krishna Krishna, Hare Hare

Hare Rama, Hare Rama

Rama Rama, Hare Hare

I’m thinking that maybe I should do a coffee table book of the interesting spirit houses in Thailand.  What do you think?

 

P1120694 I work from home.  This can be nice except when there’s construction work going on. 

Currently, four units in the complex are under renovation including the one directly below us.  I have some audio postcards I’m going to share with you one of these days so you can hear my pain.

But this week I got to enjoy a new distraction.  The planters next to the swimming pool shower were emptied, cleaned, and sealed as there has been a leak into the car park below.  So for two days while the layers of sealant were applied, I was catching these whiffs of incredibly toxic smelling industrial adhesive.

I’m not sure whether I suffered any brain damage or not, but I started feeling really good…

 

Finally, just in case you didn’t believe my previous post about Christmas being celebrated here in the Big Mango, here’s what’s displayed outside Ploenchit Center.

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Yes, it is a giant Starbucks coffee cup.  The triple-venti.  Actually, it is a book collection point as part of a charity drive they are doing.  Pretty nifty idea, although I’m curious if there’s even a dozen books in that cup.  One of these things that works were as a PR stunt but who knows whether the impact would have been greater if they had just taken the money on the display and used it to buy books for children instead.

But then they wouldn’t have received any publicity in my blog.  Or anywhere else, for that matter.

There will probably be a few days where I don’t have any posts as I transit through Taipei with Tawn and across the Pacific Ocean.  Enjoy your final weekend before Christmas and try to make time for yourself and your loved ones.  Shopping, wrapping, decorating and cooking are much less important than enjoying the company of those close to you. 

 

Merry Jolly Mango Christmas

As you peruse these pictures and two-minute video of the holiday decorations around town, just keep repeating this mantra to yourself:

“It’s a predominately Buddhist nation… It’s a predominately Buddhist nation…”

Sure, you may find that really hard to believe given the huge quantity of Christmas ornamentation, but that’s just as much a testament to the commercialisation of Christmas than any conversion of the Thai populace to a new faith.

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Above, the Central Chidlom department store on Phloenchit Road.  Below, Central World Plaza on the corner of Rama I and Ratchaprop Roads. 

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Here’s a little video, set to cheerful music by Nat King Cole, to help you enjoy the sights of the season here in the wintry Big Mango:

Errands of Anticipation

We leave for the United States on Thursday afternoon and with each trip we take, we try to get better at preparing in advance.  We’re both less stressed when we’re not packing the night before and running around trying to tie up loose ends on the way to the airport.

I’m pleased to report that we’re actually doing a good job this time around.  We managed to complete many of our to-do items this weekend while still having some time for relaxing and socializing.  We must be making some progress as our years advance!

Here’s some bits and pieces from the weekend:

Friday night I prepared dinner for Tawn since he came home late (after 8:00) and tired.  In addition to finishing up the chicken and spinach lasagna from a few days earlier, I prepared a dish of roasted beets, onions and sweet potatoes, below.

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Drizzled with a little balsamic vinegar, they were fantastic.  The next morning, Tawn took the leftover veggies, chopped them up and scrambled them with some eggs and a sprinkling of mozzarella cheese.  Tasty way to start our Saturday.

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Saturday was all about the errands, working down the list one item at a time.  These errands included a stop at Trish’s dressmakers to pay them and see how they’re doing on the first three orders, which are for my sister, mother and grandmother.  (They are the guinea pigs.)  We picked up a roll-aboard suitcase that was in for repairs after the in-line skate wheel cracked.  We picked up dry cleaning and shopped for some small gifts for friends.

Needing sustinence to keep us going, we ate lunch at a Japanese restaurant on Ekkamai.  It is one of those “grill it at your table” places but since we didn’t want to smell like food for the rest of the afternoon, we asked them to grill the food for us.  Below: garlic rice, grilled veggies and grilled pork.

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They provided bibs to protect you from the splatters from the grill.  While we didn’t grill ourselves, I thought the bib was still a good idea.  I should have one of these with me all the time.

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In the late afternoon, Tawn met with some clients.  We’re doing a side project for friends of a friend.  Their body care company is launching a new line of shampoos, bath gels, lotions, etc. and they were unhappy with the copywriters they hired.  The mutual friend recommended me and Tawn so now we’re coming up with names, tag lines, and label descriptions for thirty-six products.  Jacks of all trades – that’s what we are.

While Tawn was doing the presentation, I wandered around and killed some time.  Here’s a billboard at the corner of Asoke and Sukhumvit Roads advertising California Wow gym, which used to be affiliated with the 24 Hour Fitness chain in the US and still uses the high-pressure sales tactics which 24 Hour eventually stopped using after too many complaints to consumer protection groups.

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This billboard normally has nearly naked and very buff women on it, but I guess they’ve decided to start targetting the men.  Which makes sense when you consider that 80% of the men in their gyms are gay.  The billboard offers one year for free, presumably when you sign up for a long-term contract.

The funny thing is, this billboard faces the very large True Fitness gym across the street.  Dozens and dozens of treadmills and other cardio devices face out the window and look directly at this billboard.

From the “odd transportation” department, here’s a picture of a street vendor cart being pulled by a motorbike.  They managed to get into a small fender-bender with a car but there wasn’t any noticable damage.

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If you are an insurance adjuster, I’m sure you’re having a stress attack right now.

After Tawn was finished, we met up for facial appointments at a small Japanese brand back on Soi Sukhumvit 25.  This is only the second time in my life I’ve had a facial and, frankly, I’m not sure what the big deal is.  My face felt as stretched and tight as it does when I wash it with a bar of hand soap, which I know is the wrong thing to do.

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But I had a seaweed mask, steam treatment, and the little machine that sucks your pores clean.  Well, at least that is my understanding of what happened.  Afterwards, I didn’t really feel like I looked ten years younger but maybe that wasn’t the goal.

 

The Unbearable Trickiness of Invitations

Generally speaking, I’m a “the more, the merrier” type of guy.  For example, several invited guests for our recent Thanksgiving dinner called me just a day or two beforehand asking if it would be okay to bring an extra person.

“Absolutely,” I responded without hesitation.

There are some times, though, when I think that more isn’t merrier.  And I’m not sure how to gracefully handle those situations.

For example, when I am trying to introduce people (one person or a couple) from one social circle to people from another social circle.  In these circumstances, it can be very overwhelming to the “outsider” to introduce them to a lot of people at once.  There are many names, faces and details to remember and, unless the seating arrangement at the table is really conducive to a lot of interaction, they usually only get to talk extensively with those people seated closest to them. 

There is a difference in these situation based on the setting.  A meal that takes place at a long rectangular table, a round table, and a party where people can circulate, entering and exiting different conversations, are entirely different circumstances for introducing people from different social circles. 

What might be very effective guest lists in a party might not work so well at a table, especially a rectangular one where eye contact is limited to those adjacent to you.  The ideal there is a round table seating six to eight.

The circumstances get even more challenging when there are multiple groups being combined: party A has only vaguely met party B and party C has not met either party A or B.  Seating arrangements become critical then.

So I find myself in these situations where I invite specific people to a meal with the purpose of introducing them, and I find the invitation “hijacked” (forgive the expression) and other people invited, creating a guest list that doesn’t work as well.  Sometimes the hijacking is run by me in a way where I can tactfully suggest that I’d like to keep the guest list limited.  Other times I feel like there isn’t a tactful way for me to say no and so we wind up with a different dynamic.

Control freak?  Maybe.  Perhaps I’m just a social engineer.  But I think about situations where I’ve been invited to meet other people over a meal.  When it is a fairly small group, I’ve felt more comfortable, found it easier to interact with each of the people, and afterwards have walked away feeling like I made a meaningful connection with the other people.

Part of the challenge is that in our larger social group here in Khrungthep, there are two types of get-togethers we have and I think the distinction between the two is sometimes fuzzy.  We have general group meals where the number of invitees can expand or contract easily.  Usually, these include only people who already know each other.  But we also have meals that are more purposeful, usually to introduce specific friends or visitors to other people with whom they may have common interests.  And it isn’t always clear who “owns” the invitation rights in those situations.

Maybe I need to be specific when I send out the invitations by SMS: “I am inviting you and only these following people (A, B, C…) to lunch.”  I hate to be such a meanie about it.

What do you think?

 

A little more about birds

After posting yesterday’s audio postcard, I started thinking about birds and one particular memory came to me.  My paternal grandparents enjoyed watching birds, not in an Audobon Society sort of way, but in a more midwestern way.  They had several bird feeders hanging under the eaves outside the kitchen window, a few more hanging from the two large elm trees in their backyard, and always had a bird bath cleaned and filled out back. 

Northern Cardinal In fact, in the winter, there was always a heated bird bath: a plastic tub on the back steps with about three litres of water in it, with an electric device that kept the water above freezing throughout the coldest months.  I don’t know how many birds were still around, but they had water to drink and a place to swim.

My grandparents enjoyed watching the birds that would come to feed just outside the kitchen windows.  When my sister and I were visiting, we’d commonly hear one or the other of my grandparents call us to come into the kitchen.  It tooks us a while to learn that we could not come racing into the kitchen because we’d frighten the birds away.

There would be large blue jays, bright red cardinals, sparrows, finches and several other types of birds.  They were beautiful to watch.

Back at home in Silicon Valley, we had a bird bath, too.  One of my chores was to scrub it out and refill it.  I’m sure it attracted many birds but the bird-watching wasn’t as up close and personal as it was at my grandparents’ house.

That’s your random memory for today.