The Problem with Governors Eating Pink Slime

Even 8,000 miles away, I’ve been unable to avoid hearing about “pink slime” – or, if you prefer, “finely textured lean beef” – and the resulting commotion being made as people come to learn that the ground beef they are buying often contains additives that have been treated in some disturbing ways.

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This week, a trio of governors (Brownback from Kansas, Perry from Texas, and Branstad from Iowa) visited a Nebraska meat processing plant owned by the ominously named Beef Products, Incorporated, with media in tow. To prove their claim that this finely textured lean beef is safe to eat, after their tour of the plant they ate hamburgers made from the meat additive.

Good for them, but their publicity stunt missed the larger issue. The question isn’t whether or not this finely textured lean beef meets the minimum standards of food safety. The question is whether consumers have a right to know whether the ground beef they are buying contains any of this highly processed additive.

Let me explain my rationale: When you go to the store and buy a pound of ground beef, or when you buy a “100% beef” hamburger at a restaurant, this is what you probably have in your mind:

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You expect chunks of beef, perhaps with a little more fat than this picture shows, that have been ground. But if that’s all you expect, you may be in for a stomach-turning shock.

It has been reported that up to 70% of the ground beef sold in the United States has finely textured lean beef (a.k.a. “pink slime”) added to it and, of that ground beef, up to 25% of the total may be made up of the additive.

This additive is made from the stuff that’s left over once all the “meat” is cut off the cow’s caracas: stuff like connective tissue and spinal, rectal, and digestive lining. In the strictest sense, I guess it is “beef”… but it isn’t what I have in mind when I buy ground beef.

Now, my personal philosophy on food and nutrition is that we are better off when we eat food that has been processed as little as possible – ideally, not at all. Each step of processing robs nutrients from the food and generally increases the cost of the food.

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When I think of eating meat – and despite having spent a few years in university as a vegetarian, I’m definitely a meat eater – I would never want to eat any meat that has had to be sent through large rollers, as in the picture above, which shows how the finely textured lean beef is produced at the BPI plant. “Meat” that has to be sent through rollers can’t be a healthy choice, even if it meets the Food and Drug Administration’s definition of “generally recognized as safe.”

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Which is why I think at the heart of this matter – the heart that the merry trio of hamburger helper governors has missed – is a question of transparency, of consumers’ right to know, of truth in labeling. Something that is labeled as “100% ground beef” shouldn’t contain any finely textured lean beef… which we more accurately ought to call “ammonia bathed offal.” Instead, it should be labeled something like “ground beef with up to X% additives.” 

Again, I’m not saying that this product shouldn’t be allowed to exist on the market. I just think that we have a right to know what has been added to our food and how our food has been processed before we buy it.

 

Cooking: Making Sausages

Making sausages has long be on my “to try” list.  They say that sausages and legislation are two things you don’t really want to see being made, but I was curious.  On hearing about my interest in sausage making, Jarrett Wrisley, food writer and owner of Soulfood Mahanakorn invited my friend Chow and me to his restaurant for a sausage making tutorial.  This was much appreciated since I have neither a meat grinder or sausage stuffer attachment for my KitchenAid mixer.

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Halfway through the process, we have a few meters of sausage made and several kilos of bulk sausage left.  Which will run out first: the casings or the sausage?

Prior to starting out on the project, I spent some time learning about sausage making.  I borrowed a copy of Susan Mahnke Peery’s “Home Sausage Making: How-To Techniques for Making and Enjoying 100 Sausages at Home” from my friend Nat.  Then I did some browsing on the internet to find some recipes that sounded interesting.  The day before heading over to Soulfood Mahanakorn, I bought my ingredients, cut the meat into cubes and froze it (for easier grinding), and mixed the spices and seasonings.

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Chow and I met Jarrett at the restaurant just after noon.  First off, we enjoyed a casual lunch of freshly baked baguette, mustard, and ham that Jarrett had made in his new smoker.  Smoked with the cuttings from various Thai herbs, the ham had a fantastic flavor, perfect to set the mood for some sausage making. 

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First step – grind the meat.  I used two different meats, pork and chicken, to make two different sausages: Polish and chicken apple.  Chow made a third type of sausage, an herb and curry infused Northern Thai sausage known as sai oua.

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The ingredients for the Polish sausage: pork belly, pork shoulder, water, garlic, salt, marjoram, black pepper, dry mustard, and ground coriander seed.

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The ingredients for the chicken apple sausage: apple cider (reduced to a syrup), chicken thighs (with skin), dried apples, salt, black pepper, sage, dried ginger, cinnamon, nutmeg, and dissolved chicken bouillon.

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Chow made her sai oua using her grandmother’s recipe, or at least as much of it as she was able to pry from her grandmother’s cook.  The secret ingredients she is adding to the ground pork include shallots, garlic, cloves, kaffir lime leaf, ground coriander seed, salt, fish sauce, turmeric, dried chilies, and a mixture of southern and central style curry pastes.  And if you think there are any exact proportions to this recipe, you’re crazy!   

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Jarrett fries up a test batch of the Polish sausage.  He explained that his cooks will just taste the mixture raw to check the seasoning, presumably spitting out the mixture after tasting it.  I’m not sure I want to be eating raw pork, even here in Thailand.  Plus, since you will be eating the sausage cooked, it makes sense to me to actually taste it cooked.

After we tested all three mixtures and were confident we had the seasonings correct, it was time to stuff.  No fancy sausage stuffing machines here and certainly no synthetic sausage casings.  We used pig intestines fresh from the butcher’s, which had been rinsed countless times and treated with a little bit of lime juice to freshen the smell.

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While I generally don’t consider myself a squeamish person, when you are making sausage with natural casings, there is no getting around the reality of what you are doing: filling a previously excrement-filled intestinal track with ground meat and seasonings, with the purpose of cooking and eating them. 

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Eeew.  Reminds me of those acts where a magician pulls an unbelievably long scarf from his mouth.

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Fun stuffing.  Instead of using a stuffing machine, we hooked up the end of a length of intestine to a plastic funnel, tied off the other end of the intestine with some twine, and started stuffing.  It is labor intensive, although not quite as much work as you might imagine.  The biggest challenge is that you end up pushing lots of air into the sausage.  Later, you need to prick the sausage with a skewer to let the excess air out.

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Perhaps a new profile picture for me?  “I will stuff your guts!”

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After about an hour of stuffing, we ran out of casings.  The result was about 3 kilos, or 6 pounds of stuffed sausage, which I later tried twisting into proper links with a modest amount of success.  We used only about two-thirds of our sausage mixture, though, so everyone went home with links as well as some bulk sausage.

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Unfortunately, I don’t have any photos of the cooked links, due to operator error on my part.  (Note to self: you should not delete the pictures from your camera until ensuring they have actually copied onto the hard drive of the computer.)  I do have photos of one of my experiments with the bulk sausage: frying up patties of the sai oua and making sandwiches from them.

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Tawn was skeptical at first because “this isn’t how sai oua is eaten.”  Put it on a fresh baguette with some lettuce, tomato, carrots dressed in rice wine vinegar, a splash of fish sauce and a sprinkle of cilantro and you have a fusion between a Vietnamese bánh mì and Northern Thai sausage.  It tasted wonderful.

As for the overall sausage making experience, I would most definitely make sausage again.  The ability to control your own flavors and ingredients is worth the effort.  Next trip to the US, I’m buying a meat grinder and sausage stuffer attachment for my mixer.

 

Jason and Daniel Visit – Part 2

Later in the week, Tawn and I had a second opportunity to visit with Jason and Daniel, taking them to see a Thai market.  Wet markets (in other words, those that sell meat and produce) are often one of the best ways to get a really good look at the culture of a place you are visiting.  We chose the modern, clean, and convenient to get to Marketing Organization for Farmers market, known by its Thai initials “Or Tor Gor”.

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Or Tor Gor market is located across the street from the Chatuchak (“JJ”) Weekend Market, immediately outside exit 3 of the Kamphaeng Phet subway station and a short walk from the Mo Chit Skytrain station.  It is open every day of the year and remains busy until the afternoon, so unlike some markets that are most active at the crack of dawn, you can catch a few winks and still see Or Tor Gor in action.

Here are some of the sights we saw:

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There are loads of fruit and vegetable vendors, selling both locally grown and imported varieties.  Even though it is a few months before the height of the mango season, many vendors had a large selection of fragrant “Flower Water” mangoes.

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Dried fruit is an excellent way to bring a taste of your trip home with you.  Here, Jason and Daniel consider the different offerings including mango (lighter yellow) and papaya (orange).

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Curries are one of the staples of Thai cuisine, but even most Thais who cook at home will rarely go to the trouble to grind their own curry paste.  (Although I would like to try and make my own curry paste one of these days.)  Instead, they purchase freshly made curry paste from the local market, available in many varieties.  Tell the vendor what kind of curry you want to make and she’ll tell you what vegetables, herbs, and meats you need to buy and in what quantities.

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This market also has a significant cooked food section so you can buy your meal here and when you return home all you have to do is make some rice.  This vendor is selling curries.  By my count, approximately twenty different types of curry!  Some use the same type of curry paste but are varied by protein and whether or not they use coconut milk.  If you’ve ever tried a “jungle curry” at your local Thai restaurant, that is a curry made without coconut milk.

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Lots of snacky items available, too.  Here, Tawn and Daniel discuss the different flavors of shrimp chips available for purchase.  You can buy these cooked (as you see here) or in small uncooked discs that you fry in oil at home.  I can’t imagine the benefit of frying them yourself so much better to buy them precooked.

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Thailand is home to inexpensive, high-quality seafood and Or Tor Gor market is a good place to buy it.  Above is a tray of small crabs, the type which are brined then crushed and added to one variety of som tam – green papaya salad.

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Fresh scallops are another plentiful item.  When buying them in the US, I’m used to seeing only the white adductor muscle and not the attached roe.  Here they are sold still in the shell with all the bits still attached.

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Another popular sea food item is the giant river prawn.  These beasts usually have a body about nine inches in length (not including the antennae) and are perfect for grilling.  Here, a vendor stacks prawns for display.

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Or Tor Gor market also has several flower vendors, including some who specialize in garlands.  These hand-made flower arrangements are used for worship, placing them on Buddha statues and at shrines, as well as for honoring elders, guests, teachers, and other people of respect.

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This type of garland is especially fragrant.  It will last for several days and each evening the room will smell of jasmine.

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Another prepared food vendor sells stir-fries and other dishes that are eaten with rice.  Thus their Thai name, gap khao, which means “with rice”.  In the steamer in the foreground of the picture is an interesting dish called hor mok.  It is made with a mixture of flaked fish and red curry, steamed in a leaf cup until it has a mousse like texture, then topped with some coconut cream.  Tawn made this for me on one of his first trips to San Francisco after we met, making do with the ingredients he could find at the time.

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For our breakfast (it was going on 11:00) we settled on four dishes with rice.  From the lower right, clockwise: green curry with fish cake, bitter eggplant and basil; pork belly and boiled eggs in soy sauce; eggplant fried in ground pork and basil; and pumpkin served with scrambled egg.  Very tasty.

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Finally, after two days of trying we succeeded in getting a picture of the four of us together.  This one was taken by a young lady who was sitting at the adjacent table waiting for her food to be delivered.  Not only does it show you our handsome mugs but you can also get a good idea of what the market looks like with many of the prepared food vendors in the background.

Again, it was a pleasure to have the opportunity to finally meet Jason and Daniel in person and a treat to be able to spend some time with them while they were in town.  Hopefully, the next time we meet it will be in Tokyo!

Happy new year to all of you!