A Week in Photos

They say a picture tells a thousand words.  In that case, let me share about 10,000 words worth of pictures and catch you up on recent events.  There’s a big story to tell you about my trip to the Northeast on Sunday, but I still have some video to edit so let me get these loose ends tied up first.

One of my Xanga “blogrings” to which I belong is “I Never Leave Home Without My Camera”.  This is true.  There are simply too many fascinating things to see, especially in Krungthep!

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Another entry in my “Overloaded Trucks of Thailand” coffee table book series.  Here a bunch of laminated particleboard armoirs make their way down Asoke Street.

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There are lots of street vendors here, but this is the first time I’ve seen someone selling honeycomb from the back of a bicycle.

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Also along Asoke, a man and a woman are rescued by a tuk tuk driver as their motorscooter has a mechanical.  Somehow the driver is able to secure their scooter to the back of his tuk tuk.

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Six weeks ago, this tree outside our bedroom window, in the driveway to the neighboring condo’s car park, was barren.  I wasn’t sure if it was dead or just going through winter.  Sure enough, the green buds of new leaves started appearing as the cold weather disappeared, and last week there was a profusion of yellow blossoms.  The recent heavy rains and wind of the last three days have already knocked them off, though.

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Friday night Tawn came home from work and I prepared dinner.  I almost always have a few portions of homemade pizza dough in the freezer as it makes for an easy and relatively quick dinner.  This time was vegetarian: instead of the typical tomato sauce, I used a pureed roasted squash, seasoned with Italian spices.  Throw some tomatoes and fresh mozzarella on top, then garnish with fresh basil once out of the oven.  Serve with a mixed arugula salad and you have a pretty healthy meal.

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The next morning I made use of some leftover buttermilk to make waffles.  I tried a new recipe that substitutes 1/4 cup of cornstarch for some of the flour, which gives it a crispier texture.  Also, the egg is separated and the white is beaten before being added, giving it more volume.  Sadly, the cap on the canister of Vermont maple syrup I brought from the US (and which has been stored in my refrigerator) is stuck.  I was unable to open it and so we were limited to preserves and honey as toppings.

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Saturday we headed out to run some errands for Trish.  You’ll recall that we’ve been trying to chase down the owner of a silk factory who sold Trish 60 yards of ostensibly 2-ply white silk, that upon inspection ended up being 1-ply.  After months of the run-around we finally met up with her last weekend at Old Siam shopping center and made the exchange, picking up 2-ply navy blue silk instead of white.  Old Siam is shown above, with a large floor of clothing for sale.  This is kind of like MBK Shopping Center and a little of Chatuchak Weekend Market but all in an air conditioned environment.  There are many silk stores on the second and third floor.

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Can you spot the foot massage station at the top of the photo?  There is one in each of the four corners of the main shopping floor.  Not fancy at all, but cheap!

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Driving through the old section of the city, we passed many shop houses, some of which have beautiful tilework on the ground floor.  This one in particular caught my attention.

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While waiting at one traffic light I saw this colorful scene unfold before us.  Red, orange, yellow and green.  Bangkok: a city painted in primary colors.

Critical Mass Resumes

About six (or was it nine?) months ago I was participating in the monthly Critical Mass bicycle rides here in Krungthep, held the final Friday night of each month.  Based on their counterparts in San Francisco and dozens of other cities worldwide, CM is about creating a space where bicyclists can safely ride the roads, demonstrating the significance of our numbers to the drivers of motorized vehicles, and calling attention to the importance of including bicycles in the overall scheme of transportation.

As rainy season arrived, attendance at CM diminished, particularly after one Friday night where the two or three dozen of us ended up riding down Sathorn Road in a heavy rain.  We were soaked by that point and seeking shelter was pointless, so we kept riding until we reached the river.

Perusing the Thai-language web board at Thailand Cycling Club’s website, I discovered that CM was once again happening.  In addition to the Friday night downtown ride there is now a weekend daytime ride on the second Saturday of the month, held up at Railroad Park near Chatuchak Weekend Market.  A Thai friend, Poom, confirmed that CM was drawing a good number of people, so Stuart and I decided to join.

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After setting out from home at 5:30 and stopping by the ProBike store next to Lumpini Park to buy some new headlights (so much brighter than the old ones!), we arrived at the new Bangkok Art and Culture Centre, located right across from MBK and Siam Discovery Centre malls on what has to be one of the most valuable properties in the city.

About sixty cyclists joined and we set off in a reasonably cool and breezy evening, riding up Phahonyotin Road then turning eastbound onto Lad Prao Road.  After about 15 km the group stopped at a night market to eat.  By this point we were pretty far north of home so Stuart and I decided to continue without the group and return to our neighborhood before eating.

Sure enough, after a 40 km circuit which retraced a good part of the previous Sunday’s homeward-bound path, we had worked up a hearty appetite, which was satiated at Great American Rib Company on Sukhumvit 36.  Nothing like some mango margaritas and pulled pork shoulder to add back on those calories that were burned off on the ride!

Biking to Ko Kred (Longest Ride Yet)

In what was my longest ride yet here in Thailand, I joined the Thailand MTB group for what was billed as a 70-km round trip to Ko Kred (Kred Island), a car-free ethnic Mon enclave in the middle of the Chao Phraya River north of Krungthep.

Poom, an American-educated Thai who I met on some Thailand Cycling Club and Critical Mass rides, extended the invitation and I forwarded it on to Stuart.  I’ve never ridden with Thailand MTB (“mountain bike”) before but am always up for a new adventure.

The adventure required me to be up Sunday morning at 5:00 so that I had time to shower, stretch, eat a bite and check my tire pressure before meeting Stuart on Thong Lo about 6:30.  From there we met up with Poom at Wireless Road and then the three of us continued to the Sathorn District office, which is tucked away down a small soi in the Sathorn/Silom business district.  This first leg added about 10 km to our journey and we hadn’t even official started the ride yet.

Thailand MTB is mostly the younger, rougher, more testosterone-driven types (they are mountain bikers, after all) compared with the more varied group that you find with the Thailand Cycling Club.  That’s okay, though: I wanted to ride harder and faster than the usual liesurely pace of the TCC events.

Push hard we did.  It was a hot and humid morning and we didn’t make our first stop along the route until we were up at the point where the north-bound route makes a hard left turn to the west.  This was some 20 km from our starting part on Sathorn.

Kob Kred to Sathorn Ride

By about 10:00 we arrived at the ferry to Ko Kred.  After taking the wrong ferry we finally ended up at the island.  As mentioned before, Ko Kred is in the middle of the Chao Praya River.  It was just a peninsula at a bend in the river but in the early 1700s it was decided by the Siamese government to build a canal through the peninsula to create a more direct shipping route to the old capital of Ayuthaya.  Over time, the canal was widened and now it is the main river channel.

The island is still populated with ethnic Mon.  A popular day-trip for Thais, Ko Kred is automobile free, mostly marshland with elevated concrete paths connecting different parts of the island.  Along the way there is no shortage of vendors seling nick-knacks, food, and the earthenware pottery for which the island is famous.

We ate lunch at one of the two temples, both of which have large markets, then did a 5-km circuit of the island, dodging the mostly Thai tourists.  On the far side of the island we stopped at the second temple.  Stuart and Poom bought some fried food, the exact ingredients of which are unclear.  I think they were vegetables with one maybe being a flower blossom?

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Above, the mysterious fried foods.

P1140751 I decided that oil didn’t meet my needs so instead opted for homemade coconut ice cream with sticky rice and peanuts.  At the ice cream stand, an older lady was passing with her two young grandsons.  They stared at my in my bicycle helmet and sunglasses and commented about the farang.   I responded by saying hello and asking them if they knew how to speak English.

Shy, they declined to answer.  Their grandmother smiled and prodded them: “Sure you can.  You learned how to say ‘Hello’ right?”  They nodded at her but were still too shy to practice their vocabulary word with me.

While at the market, I noticed several stray dogs wandering near a riverside pavillion, earing scraps of food.  One looked quite large and, upon closer observation, I realized it was a wild boar, left.

Nobody seemed too concerned that a boar was wandering around the market so I didn’t worry about it either.

We regrouped at the ferry pier and started our ride back.  By this time it was 1:00 and we were under the open sky, hot sun evaporating our sweat nearly as quickly as it appeared on the skin.  Poom was riding a collapsable bike, one of those types with small wheels that can easily be brought onto a train or bus.  The problem is, smaller wheels means you have to pedal more.

On the way back, this extra effort was beginning to show.  He fell a bit behind and so Stuart and I slowed up so as not to abandon him.  At the next stop, we told the rest of the group, who was eager to ride like the wind, to go ahead without us.  We knew our way back.

An hour later we were at the Mo Chit Skytrain station, near the Chatuchak Weekend Market.  Poom decided to call it quits and ride the train back to his car.  That sounded fine to me, as we had already put in 68 of our planned 70 km. 

Stuart’s ambition stepped up, though, and he said he was going to push forward and do the last 20 or so kilometers home, taking another route down Lad Prao Road, connecting to Ram Intra / Ekkamai.  The return route isn’t on the map above, but Stuart mapped out the whole course at this link.

Never one to look like a quitter in front of others, I joined him.  Ninety minutes and a lot of traffic later, I pulled into my condo’s car park with 92 km on the odometer, exhausted but satisfied with my accomplishment.

 

Waiting for the Canadians

Almost six months ago a friend of ours from Toronto emailed to say that he and some of his friends had booked flights to Thailand and would be in Krungthep several days.  Their planned route was from Hong Kong to Samui Island and then arriving in Krungthep on Thursday the 19th and leaving on Sunday the 22nd.

Exciting news!  We haven’t seen this friend in two years since our last trip to Toronto, which was just an overnight trip.  Over the past several months we’ve anticipated this trip, corresponded about it several times, and were eagerly awaiting his arrival.

So Thursday came and went without a sound.  No phone call, no email.  Friday passed in the same manner.  Saturday morning I checked my email and there was a message, sent from his friend and fellow traveler’s account, saying they had arrived late Friday night and could we give them a call to meet up on Saturday.

Waiting until an appropriate hour of the morning, given their late arrival, I called and spoke with the friend.  “Oh, we’re just going to spend the day lounging around the pool,” he said.  “Stop by in the afternoon and then we’ll go have dinner.”

I made dinner reservations at a nice riverside restaurant, one that has a great view of the sun setting behind the Temple of Dawn.

Late morning the friend called back, suggesting that we do dinner at an expensive Italian restaurant.  He had made reservations for 9 pm.  “We’re still going to be by the pool, though, so stop by earlier so we can visit.  If we’re not in the room, you can just leave a message.”

I called back just after lunchtime and left a message that we probably couldn’t do such a late dinner since I had a 6 am meeting time for a ride Sunday morning, but we would stop by the hotel later in the afternoon and visit.

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View from the Riverside Terrace at the Peninsula Hotel

As Tawn and I left home at 4:00 to drive to the hotel, I left another message.  “We’re on our way.”  We arrived at the Peninsula Hotel, on the Thonburi side of the river, about 4:30.  Wandering through the lobby, then down to the pool, then through the spa area, we couldn’t fine the friends anywhere.  Left another message: “We’ll be sitting at the riverside terrace, enjoying a drink and the view.”

We spent the next two hours enjoying that view.  The sun set.  The lights came on.  Once the mosquitos started coming out – going on 7 pm – we decided it was time to head out.  I left another message then we retrieved the car and headed back across the river.

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Self-portrait at the Riverside Terrace with the Peninsula’s uber-green lawn behind us.

It was thirty minutes later as we were walking into a restaurant for dinner that I received a call.  The friends had decided to go watch a movie at Siam Paragon – ostensibly a 2:00 pm show – and they had misunderstood the showtimes and had only just returned to the hotel.

Unfortunately at that point, it was too late to coordinate meeting up.  Their flight was the next morning and I had that early bike ride that I had committed to.

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Tawn looks stylish in his fedora after a cosmopolitan.

I’ve sent the friend an email to check whether he’s made it back to Toronto safely and to apologize for missing him.  I also explained that I must have misunderstood his travel dates as I thought he would arrive on Thursday, not late Friday.  No response yet.

In the end it doesn’t matter.  Missed connections happen and in this day and age, we can still easily stay in touch and I’m sure our paths will cross again. 

Still, there’s a part of me that feels like he didn’t make much effort to connect.  Six months of planning and it came down to a decision to go watch “Valkyrie” with Tom Cruise instead of being where he said he’d be so that we could meet up with him?  That doesn’t make me feel like Tawn and I are much of priority.

Anyhow, we enjoyed a nice view of the river and the opportunity to take some pictures, embedded above.

 

Sunday Morning Solo Ride

Sunday morning I set out about 6:30 for another bicycle ride, this time solo since none of my other fellow cyclists was available.  I traveled the usual route – about 50 km roundtrip (a bit more, actually) from Thong Lo out to Minburi and return. 

This time I explored a few new side streets out in the countryside, discovering a way to get “back to nature” more quickly.  Sure enough, I was able to arrive at rice paddies and quiet canals a good 5 km earlier than usual.

On the way out to the ride site, I follow alongside the airport expressway.  It isn’t the most scenic part of the route but the frontage road has wide shoulders and is smoothly paved.  That counts for a lot.  Along the way I pass a couple of large mosques.  Since Islam forbids the depiction of animals or humans in artwork, mosques are instead decorated with gorgeous geometric patterns and architectural flourishes.  This one is fairly basic in design but I still think the lines are so graceful.

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Where the expressway intersects with the outer ring road there are many new housing developments, gated suburban communities that wouldn’t seem so out of place in Los Angeles, except for the lotus flowers in a pond outside the gate.

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Not long after taking the above picture, I found myself riding through rice fields, down small rural sois with unfriendly dogs, and on a narrow elevated concrete path two meters above a peaceful canal.  I dismounted to take this picture, managing to catch my riding shorts on the bicycle seat and pulling a muscle in the process.

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Continuing a few kilometers down the road I came across an area where people dump a lot of garbage, particularly the insulation from old refrigerators and other appliances.  Judging from the scorching on the ground, it looks like they dispose of this garbage by burning it.  What a terrible shame!

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This area out in Minburi is a beautiful place to ride.  However, since my bicycle rack for the car broke a few weeks back, I’m forced to ride all the way out here.  By the time I’ve fit that 50 km in, I haven’t much energy left for exploring!  Maybe I need to eat a proper breakfast before I start out.  Normally I just have a bowl of soup noodles along the way.

 

Trip to Taling Chan Floating Market

On the to-do list for many visitors to Thailand is a trip to the floating market.  But the challenge is finding one that is reasonably authentic and is reasonably nearby.  All the pictures you see of floating markets in your Lonely Planet guide are of Damnoen Saduak in Ratchaburi province.  This is a strictly-for-tourists operation and isn’t particularly worth it.

There is also a nighttime floating market that operates Friday-Sunday at Amphawa in Samut Songkram province.  This is geared towards Thais and is great fun, but requires you to drive ninety minutes each way, which is a drag.

Closer to home there is the Bang Nam Phung market in Phra Pradaeng.  That’s weekends only and has a nice selection of food, but there’s nothing floating about it.  Still, you have to take a ferry across the river to reach it, so there’s at least some nautical action along the way.

A fourth market, Taling Chan, is one I’ve heard about before but assumed it was very touristy and had never sought it out.  Finally, this weekend I had the opportunity as Otto and Han were in town from Singapore with their friend Dixon in tow, all at the same time as Pong from Kuala Lumpur.

After meeting them all for dinner on Friday evening at a local place near the Lumpini police station, Pong and Dixon decided that they were game for some sightseeing.  I met them at Saladaeng BTS station on Saturday morning and we headed to the end of the line at Saphan Taksin.  Instead of fighting with the touts, I stopped at the travel desk inside the station and negotiated a 2-hour canal tour for the three of us with a stop at the floating market for 2000 baht – about $20 per person.

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Above: Long-tail boats floating on the Chao Phraya River.

We headed up the river for about about twenty minutes, passing all the fancy hotels (Oriental, Peninsula, Shangri-La, Sheraton, Hilton), until we reached the area of the Grand Palace.  Across from Tammasart University, the “UC Berkeley” of Thailand, we turned into Khlong Bangkok Noi – “Bangkok little canal” and headed west.

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About ten minutes along the river we came to the Taling Chan floating market.  This is a combination of a land market and then a series of covered, floating platforms with seating areas in the middle of each.  Boat-borne vendors are moored alongside and you can order your food from them.

The crowd was mostly Thai, although I did see several other tour groups stop.  Our guide took the easy way out and left us to our own devices for a half-hour.  Perhaps if I had not made the effort to speak Thai with him, he’d have done his work.

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Above, Dixon and Pong seated at the floating market.  The vendors are just over the side on the water.

We ate all sorts of nice things.  I didn’t take pictures of them all, but here is a selection:

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From left to right: gwuitiaw moo – mixed pork over rice noodles; satay gai – chicken grilled with coconut milk and served with peanut dipping sauce; gung ob wun sen – Baked shrimp with vermicelli noodles, normally served in a clay pot but here on a banana leaf.

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Dessert – khanom buang.  A Thai taco with a crispy shell, a meringue-like paste (not from egg whites, though) and either shredded sweet pork or shredded egg yolks cooked in palm sugar syrup. 

Across from the market some children played in the water.  The canal is surprisingly clean, more so than the Saen Saeb canal.

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Back on the boat, Pong poses for a picture.

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We had a nice ride back, enjoying the breeze and continuing through the canals until we came back to the river about halfway downriver from where we turned into the first canal.  Even on a hot day, the temperatures are cooler when you’re on the water.

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Above: a picture of the Thai Navy headquarters and, on the right, Wat Arun – the Temple of Dawn.

Since we started so early, we were back at the Taksin pier before 11:00, plenty of time left in the day for other things.  I’m glad I took a chance on the Taling Chan market, though.  Well worth another visit.

 

Wittayu and Ploenchit

Speaking of movies, this picture I took at the corner of Wittayu (aka “Wireless”) and Ploenchit roads looks like a movie set, doesn’t it?

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The corner pictured above is the upper left-hand corner of the property shown in this photo below – just to the right of the shophouses that are being demolished – originally posted in early December.

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Please return your attention to the first photograph.  There are several things that are very interesting and instructive about this photo.  Bear with me and I’ll explain them.

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A – Two things here.  First, the building on the corner is a police box.  Almost every intersection in the city has one.  The signals, although sometimes set to “automatic”, are generally operated by a police officer sitting in the box.  During rush hour, other policemen will come out of the box and assist with directing traffic.  They use radios to coordinate the traffic signals.  Whether they are coordinating with any other intersection is anyone’s guess.

The second interesting thing is to notice how narrow the sidewalk is on the corner.  The area behind the box (covered by the new metal cage – more about that in a moment) is private land.  The previous shops that stood there had outdoor restaurants along this stretch and it became a de facto public sidwalk, making moot the dangerous narrow pedestrian footpath in front of the police box.

It looks like the new owner/developer of the property has agreed to maintain that public right-of-way.

B – Obstacle course… er, footpath.  Not only does this stretch of sidewalk (and pretty much every other stretch in the city) have vendors crowding, but you can see where construction work has been done and left in a perilous state.  Large plastic conduits lie half-burried in the concrete, creating tripping hazards galore. 

The conrete itself is actually a hopeful sign, though: previously, sidewalks were covered with individual pavers floating on a bed of compacted dirt and sand.  This looked nice for about a week, but eventualy the weight of vendor’s carts and other traffic would cause the pavers to shift, resulting in a very unstable surface.  The Bangkok Metropolitan Authority is now pouring a sub-layer of concrete and then paving on top of that.  We’ll see how it works.  In the meantime, watch your step!

C – Nice, new footpath.  The owners/developers of the new project – which I understand will be a mixed-use highrise – have rebuilt the quasi-public sidewalk so it is level, smooth, and – alors! – has metal posts spaced to prevent vendors and motorcycles from entering.  It is so nice, you almost want to cry.

D – Safety cage.  I’m not sure if the construction will be immediately adjacent to the footpath or not.  Normally, they use plywood to create a solid barrier.  This barrier lets in light and air but also any smaller particles that might fall to the earth.  I’m curious to see how this works.  Nicely, though, they built openings in the cage for the existing trees.

There’s your slice of Krungthep for the day.

 

Stuck on Thong Lo

The north end of Thong Lor (Sukhumvit Soi 55) gets really backed up with traffic, especially on weekend afternoons.  Lots of shoppers going to lots of shops and sometimes you end up sitting for several minutes.  Yes, these moments of stuck traffic give me amazing opportunities to really see this fascinating neighborhood in which I live.

P1140485 The street is about 3 km (2 miles) long with a Skytrain station at the south end.  There is a special transit system, a fleet of aging Mercedes Benz busses that spew coarse black smoke, that run up and down the soi, picking up riders at the Skytrain station, several stops along the way, until terminating at the khlong (canal) pier on the north end of the street.

These bright red unairconditioned busses park at the north end of the street when they are not in use.  While sitting in traffic, I watched as two men refueled one of the buses in the most ad-hoc manner: gravity-fed through a rubber hose connected to a plastic fuel jug.

The color and the composition both spoke to me but I was equally fascinated that the younger man was smoking while doing this.  I wondered if I kept the camera ready, would I be able to capture a good picture of the explosion without losing my life in the process?

I never found out as traffic started moving and there was, to the best of my knowledge, no explosion.

Also along the street, which is known for its abundance of wedding boutiques, I saw a plant vendor pause in the shade in front of a window displaying a wedding gown.

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Again, a wonderful contrast that exemplifies this neighborhood: it is called the Beverly Hills of Bangkok, but at the same time all segments of the socioeconomic spectrum are represented here, both living and working.  That is something I really like about Krungthep: there is a huge gap between the haves and have-nots, but the gap isn’t physical.

 

Airport Express to Open August 12

You can take this with a grain of salt, but the local papers are reporting that the Airport Express rail line – which will link downtown Bangkok with the new (well, three years ago) Suvarnabhumi Airport – is scheduled to open on the Queen’s birthday, August 12.

There may be some truth to this as a test run was completed from the Makkasan station (main in-town terminal) and the airport, conducted at normal speed.  The test was successful and the train made it the length of the route in just fifteen minutes, as planned.

Curious, I headed over to the Phayathai Skytrain station, which is where the Red Line, as the airport line is known, will connect with the Skytrain.  That section of the track was not tested last week, but it does look like a lot of progress is being made, below.

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The real question, of course, is why the project is so delayed in the first place.  After all, the plans for the airport were on the shelf for decades, the actual construction took over five years, so it wasn’t as if the airport suddenly opened up and surprised everybody.  Oh, look!  An airport!  We weren’t expecting that.

While at the Phayathai Station, I spotted what I think may be the root cause of the delay, below.

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Yes, the construction workers look a little pampered, in my opinion.  Three people catering to their every need, a comfy recliner to sit in.  Just how much construction actually gets done each day?

In all seriousness, though, if this line is anything like has been promised – the ability to check in for your flight (and to check your bags, too) at the in-city terminal – then we’ll have a major advance for our visitors as well as traveling locals.

 

The Bike Ride that Unexpectedly Doubled in Length

Peter, who is visiting from Suzhou, mentioned that he would enjoy going out for a bike ride and seeing some of the rural outskirts of Krungthep.  I borrowed Markus’ bike (since he’s moved off to Germany and isn’t using it) and cajoled Stuart into joining us for what I promised would be only a 30 km ride in Minburi.

Located just north of the new airport, Minburi is a largely rural community with a large population of Muslim families.  Rice growing is the main industry there and that means lots of wide open places to ride.  The night before the ride I mapped out the route and actually drove part of it, to confirm that the streets were wide enough and smooth enough to safely ride.

Sunday morning came.  The three bicycles were loaded onto the bike rack and about forty minutes later we pulled into the grounds of a temple under the flight path of jets landing on Suvarnabhumi Airport’s east runway.  With just a few minutes of pedaling, we left the wide, traffic-choked city streets behind and were out in the country.  We could have been 300 km away from the city, not just 30.

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We explored several dead end lanes, crossed several small canals, and even followed an elevated concrete footpath along one of the canals, where an old man and young boy who were fishing advised us to take the next bridge and ride through the local one-lane village.

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We continued along the path until it came to an end, crossing a very rickety looking bridge.  Below, Stuart treads a steady path, knowing his bike won’t float in the canal below.

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After about two hours we had completed a nice 31-km circuit.  After loading the bicycles back on the rack, we set out for home.  Very shortly, though, we encountered problems.  The plastic pieces on the rack that lock the bicycle rack’s arms perpendicular to each other, failed.  Despite having spaces for three bicycles on the rack, the plastic could not handle the weight of the bicycles and the edges of the fasteners actually bent, resulting in the bicycles’ tires dragging on the road.

We quickly pulled over to the shoulder and evaluated the situation.  There wasn’t a way to fix the rack right there and there wasn’t a way to get the bicycles into the car or even into the trunk of a taxi.  And I wasn’t going to abandon my guests and make them ride back to the city on their own.

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I called Tawn and he took a taxi out to rescue us, my knight on a white stallion.  He drove the car back home and I led the ride back to the city, and additional 30 km that we weren’t originally planning on.

Along the way we stopped for lunch at a newly-opened restaurant with a rooftop terrace.  Nice breezes and two bottles of Singha beer eased the discomfort a little before we returned to the road.  Below, Stuart and Peter stop for some fresh-squeezed sugar cane juice.  Who needs Gatorade?

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Finally, about 3:00 – some seven hours after picking up Stuart and Peter – we returned home.  Thankfully, we had some sunscreen and plenty of water, so other than some sore muscles, we weren’t too much the worse for wear.