Tuesday morning my computer, for the second time since I was “downgraded” to a 5-year-old laptop for work (don’t want to risk me being out of the country with a computer still out on lease), wouldn’t power up.  I kept pressing the power button but to no avail.  Finally, after the eleventh attempt the motor actually kicked in and the computer came to life.  It is probably an issue with the power switch. 


Fortunately, I picked up a 120 gb Seagate external hard drive that includes software to conduct automatic backups.  I’m at the internet cafe right now because I’m backing up all of the My Documents and Program Files folders – about 11 gb of my 20 gb of internal memory.  Not taking ANY risks here.


Since my computer only has the old USB ports, about 1/50th the speed of the new USB 2.0 ports, most of my morning has been reserved to get the backup performed.  Fortunately in the future the backup will automatically determine what has been changed since the last backup and will only copy those files, saving a great deal of time.


So I’m off to find the Union Language School on Thanon Surawong, near Silmon and Rama IV – right near the infamous Patpong District (think ping pong balls) and, oddly, the Bangkok Christian Hospital.  This is where good Christian doctors remove ping pong balls lodged in unfortunate places.  Union Language School is a Christian-based organization that has a good reputation for structured Thai program, different than the approach of American University Alumni Association, which is total immersion and no structure. 


Supposedly AUA students take longer to learn but speak with a better, more authentic accent.  ULS students learn quicker but risk speaking forever like a farang.  Many people go to ULS to get a structured start and then make a transition to AUA after a few months.  Some people continue to do both at the same time.  Since ULS courses are 4 weeks in length, 5 days a week in the mornings, I’ll do one between now and Christmas and then evaluate whether to continue in January.


Also, I’m off to Central Department Store at Chit Lom to find a container to hold our silverware.  Also, some sort of racks to organize dishes would be useful.  Right now our cabinets are a bit of a mess.  


This is what constitutes the 10% of things left to be done, having already completed the critical 90%.


For those of you wondering, the weather is quite bearable.  Highs around 33 C which I think equates to about 86 F.  Light breezes throughout the day except right around sunset when the wind dies down.  We’ve been having some rain, usually light showers, in the mid-afternoon which helps to cool things down a bit.  They say it takes 6-12 weeks to acclimate fully.  One down.


Finally, received a call from Rick Yang, a UA flight attendant based in NRT who lived for a decade in Bangkok with his Thai partner.  He’s been a good source of perspective on the challenges of moving to Bangkok and not speaking the language.  The good year is that after a decade he is fluent in Thai so I figure that sometime before 2015 or so I’ll be at least conversant!

Sunday was totally exhausting – as was today – but Tawn and I got a ton of to-do items knocked off the list:



  • Application for DSL and phone service submitted

  • Laundry done (well, we found a place that would do it for us same-day)

  • Purchased a 17″ flat screen monitor for the computer, 120 gb external hard drive for back-up storage, and a USB port splitter.

  • Went grocery shopping

  • Purchased a few other outstanding items for the house

  • Located an inexpensive computer desk, only 1199 baht on sale at Big C

  • Went to Bang Po (furniture wholesale district) and found a desk chair done similar to the old-fashioned, swivel desk chairs from the 1930s, except with a seat cushion and no wheels.  Only 1600 baht for solid wood.

  • Started new phone service for my mobile phone.  Still need to get the international calling plan purchased.

  • Stopped by Lumpini Park to see the Pride festival.  Very small event and will post pictures of the volleyball competition later.

  • Went to Chatchuchak Weekend Market to return a pair of “custom made” sandals that didn’t fit.  I think they didn’t actually make them from the tracing of my foot.  A new pair will be ready next week.  Also picked up some supposedly hearty plants for the balcony.

Slowly, but surely, it is coming together.

An overcast afternoon in Khrungthep with a threat of rain that has hung over us for about six hours.  It continues to feel like the rain could begin falling at any moment and the denizens of this crowded metropolis reach nervously for the reassuring feel of their umbrella handles at the slightest hint of precipitation.


Today – yes, a Saturday – Tawn had to conduct two seperate interviews with opinion makers in the Thai-Chinese diaspora.  The first was with a lawyer and Thai Senator who plays a significant role in the ethnic Hokkien community (a specific Chinese immigrant group) and the second was with a specialist in Chinese language and culture who is also the president of the Rainbow Sky Association – very similar to the Asian Pacific Islander Wellness Center, where Tawn volunteered while in San Francisco.  The second interviewee is also a very outspoken and visible member of Khrungthep’s gay community.


Coincidently, tomorrow marks the start of Khrungthep’s annual GLBT Pride Week.  There is a festival in Lumpini Park – the Central Park of Bangkok – that lasts most of the day.  Then there are different events each day of the week, culminating in a parade along Thanon Silon (Silom Road) next Sunday.  We’ll try to stop by and see what there is to see.


The remainder of the afternoon has been spent in Tawn’s office, where I’m using the computer to… well, to update this blog, among other things.  We’ll run some errands this evening and we are still trying to find a laundromat to us as our washer has not been hooked up yet.



Update: My trip report for my JFK-BKK flight has been posted at airliners.net.  Read all about this 17+ hour journey over the North Pole on the brand-new THAI Airways International Airbus A340-500 airplane.


Roast chicken dinner.  Duck with noodles.  Ramen Cup-O-Noodles.  Finger sandwiches.  Read all about the culinary delights – plus the added adventure of my attempts to minimize traffic as people used the space in front of my seat to cross from one aisle to the other.  Fun!  Excitement!  Inspiration! 


 

Friday afternoon in Bangkok.  With Tawn working in Public Relations, I figured that eventually we’d start getting invited to various swanky affairs.  Last night was the first one.  We received four tickets and brought our friends Eddy and Thao to the preview week for a new event called Siam Niramit held at a complex near the Thailand Cultural Center.   It is best described as a combination of the Thai section of Epcot Center (if there were a Thai section of Epcot Center), Cirque du Soleil, and a dinner theatre. 


Built by the owners of the Bangkok amusement park, Dream World, visitors to Siam Niramit arrive in a virtual Thai village where they can wander around and watch people making crafts, preparing food, playing traditional games, etc.  There is a large buffet of traditional Thai foods, served in little banana leaf bowls.  You can watch performers playing traditional instruments and dancing traditional dances. 


Then a few minutes before 8:00 everyone proceeds into a huge indoor theatre – probably 4,000 seats and a massive interior space that looks like an IMAX theatre.  The stage is quite wide – maybe 200 feet.  Then a show in seven acts begins that depicts historical life in the four main regions of the country.  After a brief intermission in which a clown comes out and does some audience participation act that is a direct borrow from Cirque, the final three acts depict the Thai Buddhist images of Hell, Heaven and an in-between place that is filled with fantastic creatures.  It is like a series of temple murals come to life.


There is a cast of about 70 people, lots of dancing, kickboxing, spectacular costumes and lighting, etc.  After the second act, a life-size khlong (canal) appears on the stage and we are “amazed” as a villager jumps in for a morning swim. 


All this for 1500 baht (35 USD) a ticket. 


Afterwards we dissected this experience.  If it is targetted at a local audience, the high ticket price will put it out of reach of most people.  If it is targetted at farang (foreigners) it lacks any significant amount of explanation – most people won’t understand the significance of what they’re seeing or eating before and during the show.  And regardless of audience, there is no storyline linking all of the acts together so it isn’t terribly compelling.


During lunch today, Tawn and I constructed a workable storyline that would require only a modest amount of reworking of the production.  We’re trying to figure out who to call to give them our ideas at a reasonable price.


As for other news from Bangkok, things are getting settled.  Still no internet access at home, but that may be resolved in the next week or so.  I’ve spent most mornings working on the computer then gone to meet Tawn for lunch near his office.  Most of the time this means a very simple meal at a local food court for about 80 baht apiece – US$2.  Then I return home in the afternoon and continue working on the computer.


This weekend we have a long list of errands to run.  I still do not have a computer desk and our clothes washer is not hooked up yet.  Many things to do.    

That’s “Khrungthep” To You, Mister.


It is Tuesday afternoon in Khrungthep (the name Thai people call the city the rest of us know as Bangkok) and I’m nearing completion of my first twenty-four hours in the city.  The flight in from New York took 17 hours, 5 minutes.  A full trip report will be posted in a few days, but the short version is that THAI Airways does a very good job with their international Economy class service, especially on this long-haul flight.


Through some bit of good fortune, I ended up having an entire row of four seats mostly to myself. 


By “mostly” I mean that there was a man sitting in the aisle seat some of the flight, but then he went to sit elsewhere for most of the time.


While I couldn’t sleep I did doze a bit, ate two meals and two snacks, and watched several different TV programs and parts of two movies. 


Unfortunately with the Audo/Video On Demand system, I was unable to watch “West Side Story” which was one of the “Classic Movies” choices.  You can demand your movies but that doesn’t mean you’ll get them.


On the way into the country, my Non-Immigrant B visa was accepted, so I now begin the first 90-day period of my year here “exploring investment options.” 


So What Was Emily For Halloween?


For those of you who were wondering, my niece Emily went trick-or-treating dressed as Princess Fiona from the Shrek movies.  Here is a picture of her.  Notice the green ears.  Nice touch.


 

The Morning of My Departure for Bangkok

Daylight Saving Time has ended – yeah, an extra hour this morning before departing to the airport.  Holly and I are sitting around her living room watching New York 1 for local news, drinking coffee, and I’m thinking about walking down to the corner bagel shop for one last taste of New York.  Thai Airways webite is showing an on-time departure (hours and hours before departure) for my flight.

 

Saturday night it was a pleasure hanging out with Keith and Aaron for about ninety minutes.  Keith had his “Boyfriend-aholic” t-shirt on, which seems appropriate.  Had a good conversation with Aaron about a little puppy that has been following him around!

 

I walked down Seventh Avenue to Blue Hill and thankfully allowed myself enough extra time because I overshot the restaurant by six blocks.  It is in that section known as Greenwhich Village – the point where the grid of streets ends – that I got confused.  Holly was just starting on a glass of Pinot Noir at the bar when I arrived, spot-on at 9:00.  We had a fantastic dinner, that only could have been improved with the presence of Tawn and you, of course!

 

Holly and I chose the tasting menu, paired with a wine tasting menu.  It was fantastic:

 

Amuse bouche

  • Celeraic soup
  • Butternut squash sorbet

First plates

  • Grilled wild striped bass with salsify puree and tomota-pepper vinaigrette
  • Wine: Lieb Family Cellars Rose, North Fork Long Island (New York) 2004
  • Chatham Cod with razor clamgs, lobster, crab and sucrine lettuces
  • Wine: Channing Daughter’s Vino Bianco, South Fork Long Island (New York) 2004

Main plate

  • Loin of Vermont baby lamp with wild mushrooms, chestnuts, banana squash, Stone Barns brussel sprout leaves
  • Wine: Joseph Phelps Le Mistral, Monterey County (California) 2002

Desserts

  • Buttermilk Panna Cotta with plum marmalade and plum sorbet
  • Cheesecake with bitter chocolate sauce
  • Wine: “MR” Mountain Wine, Malaga (Spain) 2004

Last taste

  • Miniature chocolate muffin top

 

The celeraic soup, served in a tall, thin shot glass, was very tasty and quite hot.  It had a infused foam on top that was really a nice textural contrast to the rich soup.  The butternut squash sorbet, served on a demitasse spoon, was richly flavored and subtly sweet.  Very interesting and buttery but the flavors are better as a soup.

The bass and the rose wine were the best pairing.  The bass had a seared crust with a tomato-pepper vinaigrette that absolutely melted in your mouth.  The rose, which was enjoable on its own, just jmped to life following the bass and the flavors continued to evolve for the next several moments.

The cod was very lightly cooked, tender and flaky.  The broth was a high point full of great crustacean flavors that I sopped up with one of the fresh soft breadsticks.

The lamb, an unusual choice to serve a generous portion of loin, was lightly breaded on one side, tremendously tender and flavorful, and also a bit too salty.  The banana squash slice was delectable and wild mushrooms and chestnuts captured the season beautifully.

Of the desserts, we suggested to the server afterwards that the order should have been reversed.  The cheescake was served in individual small preserve jars and had a small dallop of bitter chocolate on top.  The cake increased in richness the deeper you dug and the chocolate had an interesting counter-note of saltiness.  It was very enjoyable, but had been completely overshadowed by the amazing buttermile panna cotta.  Like a fresh yogurt, the tangy creamy base had a layer of plum marmalade that was bursting with ripe fruitiness.  A wedge of plum sorbet added a coolness to the whole thing.

It was an absolutely fantastic meal and I can’t wait to return to Blue Hill again.

Last Day in the US Spent in NYC

Saturday in New York City.  Upper East Side, Lexington and 84th.  Holly’s lived in this charming corner apartment on the third floor for 14 years. Needless to say, the rent is a steal, and it is a charming neighborhood. 

Last night we walked a few blocks down to Tiramisu, a local Italian restaurant.  It was about nine o’clock and the restaurant was crowded as we arrived.  Fortunately, the maitre d’ was someone that Holly had known several years ago so we were seated quickly.  In fact, they must have been good friends, because he came back and refilled our glasses of wine and was very attentive.

The food was good – it is a neighborhood type of restaurant – satisfying but not too fancy.  I had the daily risotto special, which featured asparagus, arugula, and large fresh shrimp.  Interestingly, it was served in a hollowed-out grapefruit perched atop additional risotto.  Tasty.

The tiramisu itself was fantastic, a good size brick that Holly and I shared.

Hard to believe, or maybe not so hard, that the time has come for my move.  After several years of possibility, sixteen months of planning, and three months of actual organization and execution, the day has arrived.  The first twenty-two plus years were stationary; the next dozen have been downright nomadic. 

This morning I met my protoge and now boss, Kim Fordham, for brunch at Danal – a fantastic, eclectic brunch place that looks like your English great-grandmother’s back patio.  It was very nice.  While waiting for Kim and her friend Pat, I sat on a bench in the front window and played with the resident cat, a fat white and black long-hair.  She was quite fond of me and I spent the remainder of the afternoon removing white cat fur from my black wool jacket.

During the afternoon I browsed at Strand Books, one of the largest used bookstores in the world.  I picked up Ruling Your World: Ancient Strategies for Modern Life by Sakyong Mipham.  While the book doesn’t have anything “new” to say – common sense, really – it is interesting to read how the basic messages of not being so centered on “me” are packaged.

This evening, I’ll meet up with Aaron Wong and Keith Chan for drink at G Lounge – a bar in Chelsea.  Then Holly and I will have a late dinner (9:00) at Blue Hill.  One of my favorite restaurants in New York, this cozy spot with acclaimed chefs Dan Barber and Juan Cuevas features – their words – “Seasonal American food featuring the produce of the Hudson Valley.” 

Bonus: Last night I took my thirteen months’ collection of coins to the grocery store.  After CoinStar’s 8.9% service charge, I still had $108.36.  Enough to pay for my cab from LaGuardia and then to JFK airport.  Ha.

Second Bonus: Here’s a photo I snapped at my bon voyage party thrown by my sister, Jennifer, last week.  My niece, Emily, my father, and Jennifer’s dog Zoe were in a three way tug of war in which Emily ended up the loser!

Many thanks to Jenn and Kevin for hosting the party.  It was a lot of fun to spend time with all our family members as well as dear friends.

Bags Are Packed and I’m Heading to the Airport

While they didn’t contain everything I wanted to bring, my bags were finally packed.  A last load of laundry was in the dryer and I unloaded the dishwasher.  Ken arrived this morning at about 6:25 and started loading the three larger suitcases into his truck as I brushed my teeth, packed the toothpaste in the trolley bag, and did the last thing on my checklist (courtesy of my father): turn the thermostat down to 55 degrees.

Checking in at the airport, I learned that United has instituted a rather reasonable policy: they now charge $25 for bags that are between 50 and 70 pounds.  Over 70 pounds either has to go as freight or has a higher surcharge – I’m not sure which is the case.  All three of my bags were between 54 and 58 pounds, despite my best efforts to mix the dense items like compact discs and coffee with lighter items like clothes and bed sheets.

Thankfully, I get a stop in New York before I depart on Sunday morning.  Many thanks to Holly Stern for letting me stay on her hide-a-bed with her cat.  Her lovely Upper East Side apartment will be packed with my suitcases for two nights.

Here’s a picture of Holly and her adopted-eight-weeks-ago Lab/Hound mix, Ally.

Thinking Ahead to Christmas Travels

My last Saturday in Kansas City.  After rushing around the United States and Canada on business, I’m glad to be back home for my last week.  Lots to do, though.  My parents are in town for the weekend, as my sister is throwing a Bon Voyage party for me this evening.  On the menu: tri-tip roasts prepared two ways (Santa Maria rub and Teriyaki marinade) along with a slew of side dishes prepared by other people.

Christmas Trip – This week I finalised the itinerary that Tawn and I will take for our trip back to Kansas City over Christmas.  As I wrote previously, this was a tough trip to book for several reasons:

First, Tawn only has five vacation days left this calendar year and since Christmas is not a recognized holiday in Thailand, we couldn’t count on any additional days off.  Second, we wanted to hit both Kansas City and San Francisco, as Bruce and Howie were quite adamant when I last saw them that they expect to see us for New Year’s.

Finally, prices were just out of control.  I found a trip on Singapore that would get us to San Francisco and then we would have to book SF to Kansas City separately.  The price was about $2800 total but we arrived on Christmas Day.  To book United the whole way would run us $3600 but we would arrive on Christmas Eve instead.  When I spoke with my sister, she indicated that arriving on Christmas Day wasn’t very workable (at least, that’s how I interpreted her message – maybe inaccurately), so I put up a mental roadblock that the Singapore option wasn’t workable.

It is interesting how putting up mental roadblocks really doesn’t allow you to make good decisions.  Tawn and were discussing the pricier alternative and were at the point of deciding that we would skip the entire trip because $3600 was just too much more than we were willing to pay.  Following that conversation, I stopped by my grandparents’ house and was telling them about the tough decision we faced.

My grandmother, always a woman of great sense and clarity of thought, pointed out that my aunt wasn’t even going to arrive until the day after Christmas and so we would not have the entire Tebow family together until afterwards anyhow.  That was enough to jolt the mental log jam loose, and as I drove back home I realized that if we arrived on Christmas Day, then we arrived on Christmas Day.  That isn’t a good enough reason to spend a ton of extra money.

So that evening I sat down at the computer and made a fresh start of it.  Sure enough, with the mental river flowing unobstructed, I saw options that had previously not been visible to me.  In the end, here’s what we arrived at and booked:

December 24th

    • Leave Bangkok 7:45 am and arrive Singapore 11:10 am
    • (6 hour layover in Singapore – Otto and Han, will you be in town?)
    • Leave Singapore at 5:00 pm, stop in Hong Kong for 1 hour, arrive in SFO 5:55 pm on the same day.
  • (Overnight in San Francisco, staying at the SF Airport Marriott – anyone in town on Christmas Eve and want to have dinner?  Maybe Watergate is open?)

December 25th

  • Leave SFO at 7:15 am, connect in Denver, and arrive Kansas City at 3:00 pm

December 30th

  • Leave Kansas City at 7:10 am, connect in Denver, and arrive SFO at 12:10 pm

January 2nd

    • Leave SFO at 12:05 am (five minutes after January 1st ends)
    • Connect through HKG and SIN
  • Arrive in Bangkok at 2:30 pm on January 3rd.

All this for only US$2,100 plus about 20,000 Mileage Plus miles and one domestic free ticket (for a volunteer denied boarding earlier this spring).  Very good.

Packing – Good news.  Most of what I want to move to BKK on this trip will fit into the suitcases.  I did most of the packing last night.  However, I’m thinking that since the Christmas trip is a go, I might pull out some of the heavier items (I don’t really need all my DVDs right now, do I?) and save them for December.

This will allow some extra room for lighter items like sheets and towels.  Tawn has asked me to buy some here as the quality is better than in Thailand.  Plus, there’s no need to have suitcases that are 50+ pounds apiece.  Better to lighten them up a little bit so they’re easier to handle in New York.