The final night of my trip, I stayed with Otto and Han at their condo near Sentosa Island, in the south of Singapore.  (Will Zakiah notice that I didn’t say “Southern Singapore”?)  We weren’t alone, though, as they have a Jack Russell Terrier named Mantou (饅頭) – Mandarin for those plain steamed wheat buns popular in Northern Chinese cuisine.

Right: Otto and Mantou.

It is safe to say that Mantou lives a life of pampered luxury and receives no shortage of affection, being lavished with attention and played with throughout the day. 

He must have done something right in his previous doggie life – pulled someone from a fire perhaps? – to have earned a rebirth as Otto and Han’s puppy in this life. 

One of the nicest things about staying with Otto and Han, besides their good company, is that it gave me a chance to experience Singapore from the perspective of “everyday” Singaporeans, living in the suburban government housing blocks known as HDB flats. 

The Housing and Development Board is an interesting organization.  Its mission is three-fold: to provide affordable, quality homes; to ensure vibrant towns; and to focus on the community.  Set up in 1960, the HDB has overseen a complete overhaul in terms of the way people live.  Gone are the slums and squatter settlements, replaced by planned and organized high-rise flats that now house an amazing 84% of Singaporeans.

Left: a typical HDB tower.

To be certain, there is a fair amount of grumbling by Singaporeans and those who have the means to, usually do escape to privately-owned and developed condominium complexes. 

But for the vast majority of residents, HDB housing provides the opportunity to affordably own a clean, efficiently-designed flat in a community that is walkable, has most of the services you would need in one place, and includes spaces for public life to occur.

Idyllic, utopian, and very typical of the trade-offs that one makes if you live in Singapore.

One observation I’ll make just from staying with Otto and Han: their place is quite spacious for two people, nicely laid out, has an excellent view of an adjacent green space, and enjoys very good cross-ventilation.  In fact, the house was very comfortable just with a ceiling fan going.  From my perspective, it has a lot going for it.

Sunday morning Otto invited me to join him and Mantou on a walk, which gave me more of an opportunity to see the suburbs and various HDB “towns” – each of which have their own elected town council. 

The first thing I noticed, as we set off through their own town, was the amount of community interaction.  Breakfast business at a vegetarian restaurant downstairs was hopping as people came and went.  Cars were being washed, dogs were being walked, and at a pavillion designed just for that purpose, residents hung their birds and admired the incessant chirping.  (Each birdcage hook has a number, just so you don’t forget where you left your bird!)

We headed out the front entrance of the town and made a right turn, heading to the main street.  Along the way we walked on smooth, level foot paths that were incorporated into broad, grassy shoulders next to the road.  Large trees provided plenty of shade and even though it was a warm day, it didn’t feel as hot as it does when you’re stumbling down the uneven pavement in Krungthep, sweltering in the direct sunlight.

Over the years, the HDB has collaborated with private developers to create towns with a little more flair and individuality.  One we passed had a bit of a nautical theme to it.

We continued for about ninety minutes, following wherever Mantou would lead.  Along the way we passed a Thai Buddhist Temple, a sect of Buddhism that is growing in popularity throughout Southeast Asia.  This temple looks just a little like the one on Russell Street in Berkeley.

Our path took us across a main expressway into town.  Even then, the pedestrian facilities were clearly marked and crossing this large intersection didn’t feel like a life-or-death game.  To top it off, the expressway was clean, smoothly-paved, well-marked, etc.  Can you imagine something like this in Thailand?

To be certain, comparing Singapore and Thailand is really comparing apples and oranges.  As much as I wish my footpaths were smoother, my government less corrupt, and the trees along my walks provided more shade, there are many good aspects about life in Krungthep.

And I’m well aware that many Singaporeans and expats who live there feel a bit stiffled by the “big brother” government, the almost sterile cleanliness of the country, and a sense that there isn’t anything to do there. 

If anything, Singapore provides a pleasant change of pace, a different view of the world, and a few moments of wistfullness, hoping that maybe, one day, the Governor of Krungthep will have the power to implement a few small changes that would make the Big Mango a little more beautiful, a little easier to navigate, and a little more pleasant for those who live, work and visit here.